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Youri Ko

About to do my chain pads - engine in or out?

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This is good info as I have to change my pads in the future, my cam deviation is about 7 or 8 degrees depending how hot the motor is. Hopefully I'll just rent the tools from somebody.

 

Jeff in PA: Do you post on Rennlist? If so, you must have a different screen name.....but I am going to say for some reason you don't. Your posts are always helpful.

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Accessory belt was off, so no water, a/c, alternator. No airbox, no maf and O2 were unplugged too. New fuel pump definitely changed the way this car starts. Used to be a different story.

 

Just wanted to get that off my shoulders. Reinstalling the rest this week and will bleed the coolant once I can put the car outside.

 

MK2 cats? How diffrent are they? Wow, I learn new things everyday about this thing.

 

You ran it w/o air filter? I hope at least it had coolant in it. You're a brave man haha

 

This is good info as I have to change my pads in the future, my cam deviation is about 7 or 8 degrees depending how hot the motor is. Hopefully I'll just rent the tools from somebody.

 

Jeff in PA: Do you post on Rennlist? If so, you must have a different screen name.....but I am going to say for some reason you don't. Your posts are always helpful.

 

I don't think either. Probably John doesn't care about the drama there :)

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This is good info as I have to change my pads in the future, my cam deviation is about 7 or 8 degrees depending how hot the motor is. Hopefully I'll just rent the tools from somebody.

 

Jeff in PA: Do you post on Rennlist? If so, you must have a different screen name.....but I am going to say for some reason you don't. Your posts are always helpful.

 

Very infrequently, but when I do I use the same screen name.  Ahsai is correct, the drama over there kind of takes the enjoyment out of the site.  There are a couple of sites that I have declined to participate in for that and similar reasons; simply not an effective or good use of my time.

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More close ups

 

I'll check see if there are any part numbers I can find on them tonight

post-103979-0-39447500-1459974180_thumb.

post-103979-0-32230700-1459974181_thumb.

Edited by Youri Ko

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I could be wrong and maybe John can verify. These are the MkI ones on '99-'01 cars http://www.renntech.org/forums/uploads/downloadedimages/fab-996-cb.jpg

Note their O2 sensor bungs are at different locations than yours. The ones in your photo should be for '02 and newer cars.

 

Ahsai is correct, they look like the later versions.  I would also check the engine number for two things: Does it contain the letters "AT", and the number sequence.  "AT" would indicate it is a factory reman replacement engine, but would not necessarily explain the cats.  An engine code for a later manufacture date could indicate that the engine is out of a later car, which could account for the cats.

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Here is the engine number, oh yeah, and it's a double row 2001...

 

On another note, is there a way to conventionally bleed the clutch, without pressure bleeder, I mean? Been fighting with this clutch for two evenings, longer then it took to drop the engine do the pads and put it back.  :cursing:

post-103979-0-06324900-1460040498_thumb.

Edited by Youri Ko

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Here is the engine number, oh yeah, and it's a double row 2001...

 

On another note, is there a way to conventionally bleed the clutch, without pressure bleeder, I mean? Been fighting with this clutch for two evenings, longer then it took to drop the engine do the pads and put it back.  :cursing:

 

Have you tried to bleed it with the pressure bleeder, and if so, how?

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Here is the engine number, oh yeah, and it's a double row 2001...

 

On another note, is there a way to conventionally bleed the clutch, without pressure bleeder, I mean? Been fighting with this clutch for two evenings, longer then it took to drop the engine do the pads and put it back.  :cursing:

 

Here is the engine and trans number decode info:  http://www.porscheclubgb.org/clientftp/Register/996/faq_engine_transmission_codes.pdf

 

Engine number looks like  a 2001 3.4L.

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Here is the engine number, oh yeah, and it's a double row 2001...

 

On another note, is there a way to conventionally bleed the clutch, without pressure bleeder, I mean? Been fighting with this clutch for two evenings, longer then it took to drop the engine do the pads and put it back.  :cursing:

 

Have you tried to bleed it with the pressure bleeder, and if so, how?

 

No, I have not, only tried conventional two people bleeding, pump pump, hold, open the valve, close, restart.

 

Don't have a pressure bleeder, building one tonight.

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Here is the engine number, oh yeah, and it's a double row 2001...

 

On another note, is there a way to conventionally bleed the clutch, without pressure bleeder, I mean? Been fighting with this clutch for two evenings, longer then it took to drop the engine do the pads and put it back.  :cursing:

 

Have you tried to bleed it with the pressure bleeder, and if so, how?

 

No, I have not, only tried conventional two people bleeding, pump pump, hold, open the valve, close, restart.

 

Don't have a pressure bleeder, building one tonight.

 

 

That method should work.  If you switch to pressure bleeding, remember that the clutch pedal has to be held to the floor while doing the bleeding, then pulled up afterwards.

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Here is the engine number, oh yeah, and it's a double row 2001...

 

On another note, is there a way to conventionally bleed the clutch, without pressure bleeder, I mean? Been fighting with this clutch for two evenings, longer then it took to drop the engine do the pads and put it back.  :cursing:

 

Have you tried to bleed it with the pressure bleeder, and if so, how?

 

No, I have not, only tried conventional two people bleeding, pump pump, hold, open the valve, close, restart.

 

Don't have a pressure bleeder, building one tonight.

 

 

That method should work.  If you switch to pressure bleeding, remember that the clutch pedal has to be held to the floor while doing the bleeding, then pulled up afterwards.

 

 

The conventional method did not work. We had to press and pull the pedal manually, and it never got "hard" (that sounds funny)

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I'm in the process of bleeding coolant system. I studied what porsche manual suggests but could not get to the point where the radiator fans would kick in. Drove the car a little around , revved from time to time but I guess it never got hot enough. So I will go for a longer drive next time. Manual also says not to go over 90Celcius . My needle what fluctuate between dead middle which is 180F and then a tad higher if I simply let it sit at idle. Revving up would make the temp drop a little.

Besides using a vacuum system for fill up, could you provide me with some pointers or tips and such on sucessful system bleed?

 

Thanks a lot!

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Just curious, what would a typical chain guides job cost in a shop?

Edited by Youri Ko

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