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Loren

PSE (Porsche Sport Exhaust) Install

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PSE (Porsche Sport Exhaust) Install


Covers all Carrera, and GT3 cars Removal -- 1. You will need to lift the car high enough that you can safely get underneath (you do not need to remove the rear wheels on most cars but most folks find it easier with the rear wheels off). 2. Loosen the 2 bolts (each side) on the sleeve that connects to the cats and then slide it towards the cat. (You might want to spray these nuts with WD40 first so they will loosen easier -- just don't spray the O2 sensors). 3. Crawl und

 

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What are the next steps in replacing the manifold extractors? I have a complete TechArt system that I want to install, and it includes these. Thanks

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What are the next steps in replacing the manifold extractors?  I have a complete TechArt system that I want to install, and it includes these.  Thanks

If you are talking about the headers - there are 3 on each header pipe (9 per side). There are 3 bolts where the header connects to the cats.

When installing the header to engine torque is 19 ft-lbs and the header to cat torque is 22 ft-lbs.

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See, I try to use the right terminology and I get corrected. :) I had called them headers in a previous post, and someone told me they were called manifold extractors (in the European fashion). I'll go back to calling them what they should be called, headers.

Thanks for the info. Project for tomorrow!!

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See, I try to use the right terminology and I get corrected.  :)  I had called them headers in a previous post, and someone told me they were called manifold extractors (in the European fashion).  I'll go back to calling them what they should be called, headers.

Thanks for the info.  Project for tomorrow!!

:lol: Porsche's parts list terminology (on this one) is traditional - "exhaust manifold".

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I have a PSE coming in, jsut wondering how long does it take to install with the electrical stuff. thanks..

According to Porsche 750 TU (or 7.5 hours). To route the wiring under the carpet you need to remove the seats and rear console.

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dang, i think i should just have it on all te time...

There's no way I would have the full install done. I had PSE in my last Carrera and when I bought my '04 Carrera I didn't want to wait to order one, and found one in a dealer's inventory very close to what I wanted, but without PSE. I bought PSE and had just the mufflers installed for $100 at an independent Porsche shop.

For the full install, in addition to the large expense, they need to run a harness from the engine compartment to the relay panel, and take apart your interior in the process, which is just asking for squeaks/rattles to be introduced. I would never use the dash switch.

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ya, very true, i think im going to go with on all the time. I really dont want squeeks and rattles... they are annoying! but good thing i fixed the one i had before, so now i dont have any:D . Can you tell me how much louder it is than stock. Ive heard the PSE on there website, but i want to know from you guys. Like, is it goiong to make a good difference from stock. Im hoping its loud and people can hear it when i drive by.

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I had the full install, and I have zero squeaks or rattles. The full install is a necessity for me since I live in Georgetown, where the PSEcan occasionally create a tremendous racket echoing off of the brick townhouses. I leave it loud 95% of the time, but I am very glad that I can make it quiet for the remaining 5% (when driving next to the friendly local police, driving past more elderly neighbors, taking wife somewhere when she doesn't want to hear the exhaust. If your car doesn't rattle before the install, it will not rattle after the install. If it does, the installer will know exactly which parts were touched, and he or she can fix it. Just my two cents.

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I loosened and slid over the clamps that hold the muffs on to the cats.

I removed the exhaust tips.

I only found two out of the three bracket bolts on each muffler. Still looking for the third. It is hidden up there somewhere out of sight?

Here's my biggest problem. The two brackets I found so far have a long vertical bolt with a nut on the bottom and hex head on top. However, there is only about one inch of clearance above the top of the bolt. There is not enough clearance above the bolt to slide it all the way up and out. It is the same on both sides for both bolts. How the heck are you supposed to get them out of there?

This should be really simple. My dealer just had the pipes off recently. If they got these bolts back in there has to be a way of getting them out....

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Never mind. I need to get back on the short bus. I'm such a retard. I figured it out. Geeeessss. Porsche makes this a pain in the ***. Time to put my helmet and bibb back on and get to work :)

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How do you get the swivel joint clamp on and off the pipe? This thing is wearing me out. I bent the crap out of the right one before I finally quit for the night. Porsche exhausts are a nightmare compared to anything else I've ever seen. So how do you install and remove that clamp without destroying it. There has to be a trick there. Seems like the bolt holes want to bend before the clamp will open enough to be removed or installed. Help!

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How do you get the swivel joint clamp on and off the pipe?  This thing is wearing me out. I bent the crap out of the right one before I finally quit for the night. Porsche exhausts are a nightmare compared to anything else I've ever seen. So how do you install and remove that clamp without destroying it. There has to be a trick there. Seems like the bolt holes want to bend before the clamp will open enough to be removed or installed. Help!

Here is how I do it...

Loosen the clamping bolt a lot. Then use a screwdriver to pry it over the edge of the exhaust tip. It will take some muscle. Worst case take the bolt all the way out.

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Yep, I did the same thing Loren did. Loosen it WAY up and pry like fiend. Nice meeting you at Boca for the 6speedonline event. Glad you decided to go with the PSE!!

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Actually, I ended up going with the cargraphic export exhaust. I did like the PSE a lot, but I'm kind of hooked on the cargraphic stuff. I figured the install is the same no matter what the brand. Before I broke something, I took it to the dealer and they opened the clamps up with some spreader pliars. Neat tool. I bent the **** out of one of the clamps trying to do the screwdriver thing. We got it bent back more or less. Should be fine once it's tightened up.

The tech did tell me that you should tighten the pivot points with an air tool. He said that leaks at that point are very common. He told me once I got it positioned the way I wanted to bring it by and he'd sockem down.

Deke:

Good meeting you as well. That meet cost me a small fortune. I ended up buying a set of cargraphic wheels, exhaust, and springs. Ugggh. My mod budget is blown for the next two years :)

Edited by deputydog95

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The muffler to cat clamps in the first picture of Loren's post gets awfully close to the coolant hoses on the driver's side, the bolt is like half an inch away from the hoses. Is there any danger in this?

My clamps had the bolts below the pipe, but it looked real ugly from outside and hits my leg when I'm working on the car so I rotated them up so now they are positioned just like in Loren's pic, but the proximity to the coolant hoses worry me.

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Is there a metric equivalent of the torque settings described above by Loren - I am having my exhaust fitted in Spain and I am not sure the guys will understand lb/ft ..............

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Is there a metric equivalent of the torque settings described above by Loren - I am having my exhaust fitted in Spain and I am not sure the guys will understand lb/ft ..............

I edited my first post and added the metric Nm values so you can go back and check it now.

You can also convert and foot pound setting with: 0.7376 * NM = FT/LBS.

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I will doing the PSE (muffler only) mod next week and I want to confirm a few of things:

- Are the bypass vacum flaps open (loud) by default (with no vacum connection)?

- Should I safety wire them in that position?

- Should I plug the vacum pipe connection? How?

- Is anti-seize needed on the bolts?

Thanks

Yannis

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- Are the bypass vacum flaps open (loud) by default (with no vacum connection)?
Yes.

- Should I safety wire them in that position?
No, there is no need to do that.

- Should I plug the vacum pipe connection? How?
If you don't install the vacuum and electronics then they act as mufflers only - so no vacuum is used. Mine have been that way since 2000.

- Is anti-seize needed on the bolts?
No, it will just burn off from the heat.

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This is a bit off-topic - but relevant to the discussion. (Delete if you think not.)

I recently took advantage of a 20% off sale from Performance Products (PP) and purchased Billy Boat mufflers for my 2003 Carrera. Armed with your very helpful instructions I proceeded to remove the factory mufflers and was able to replace the left (driver) side muffler without incident. The right side muffler was a different story: it would not install onto the factory muffler mounting bracket – the muffler mounting ‘tabs’ did not have sufficient space to allow the fitting of the bracket. The muffler mounting tabs being thick (1/8”) steel pieces securely welded to the muffler body are not something you can easily bend around and make fit (see #1) (I don't know how to include the graphics).

#1:

From an end view, you can see about ¼” overlap of the factory bracket over the muffler spacing (see #2)

#2:

I find nothing to be more frustrating than assembling all the tools/parts/energy/etc., to work on a vehicle and finding out that the new parts are incorrect or don’t fit, etc. The infuriating issue was that – this being a crucial interface – it should have been an utmost necessity to execute correctly and likely the easiest to check/verify. A closer look at the muffler makes it obvious that one of the tabs is not straight and that the mounting surfaces of the two key tabs are not parallel (#4). Measurements taken showed .070” difference in the spacing between the tabs from front to back. The left tab is at least 5° off from parallel to the apparent vertical plane.

#4:

You can see how these measurements compare to ones I took off the factory mounting bracket (#5)

#5:

Okay, so one muffler is built incorrectly – it can happen. PP agreed to send me a complete new set – for which I commend them. Of course, this meant driving the car with only one muffler for the better part of a week. (I wasn’t going to reinstall the factory muffler after wrestling it down from its snug perch.)

So, while I have some time to kill, I emailed Billy Boat to ask for an explanation. I am told all their mufflers are built with tooling, etc., and that it is impossible that it can be made wrong. I am told (by the sales manager) to hit the muffler with a hammer to make it fit! I thought that would be a bad idea on its face and something I wasn’t going to do (and shouldn’t have to do) to a $500.00 muffler. Oddly, I get an email from the same manager several days later indicating that they will make me a correct muffler and send it overnight. (Hmmm, did they discover that they had a problem?) I declined the offer as the second set is on the way.

Several days later the second set arrived. To my astonishment, the right muffler exhibits the same defect and actually appears a bit worse. Needless to say, I sent the replacement set back.

To get closure to this, I took the original muffler to a shop and, by using a hydraulic press, they separated the mounting tabs sufficiently to fit the mounting bracket, enabling me to finally complete the installation.

My warning to anyone wanting performance mufflers for their Porsche:

DO NOT BUY BILLY BOAT.

I offer this as a help to anyone considering a muffler swap. I, of course, kick myself for getting hooked by the sale and not purchasing the FabSpeed mufflers which were my first choice.

Mike W – San Diego, POC member

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I have a PSE coming in, jsut wondering how long does it take to install with the electrical stuff. thanks..

According to Porsche 750 TU (or 7.5 hours). To route the wiring under the carpet you need to remove the seats and rear console.

I have a 2004 GT3 with Tequipment roll bar. Does the roll bar have to be removed in order to route the wiring harness for the full PSE install? Also can I just do "on-off" as opposed to variable input based on speed? I would like to have the option of running in 'quiet' mode. Thanks.

Zed

Edited by zed

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