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Under performing seal


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Loren,

I know this horse has been beaten to death, so please forgive me. I am about to replace the clutch in my 2003 996 C2; the engine currently is NOT leaking. Should I replace the RMS and IMS, or leave them alone? I hate to fix something that's not broken.

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Loren,

I know this horse has been beaten to death, so please forgive me. I am about to replace the clutch in my 2003 996 C2; the engine currently is NOT leaking. Should I replace the RMS and IMS, or leave them alone? I hate to fix something that's not broken.

If you see no leaks I would leave them alone. (JMHO)

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I don't think you are going to know if it is the IMS or RMS (or both) without removing the transmission and flywheel.

I agree. Knowing that it could be the ISS also, then it's going to a shop for a checkup. At 12k miles, it's too early for a new clutch but I may just get a new one anyway. I think I'll tell my indy to try the GT3 motorsports seal.

:renntech:

Did you try the GT3 motorsports seal and how did it work out for you? I have the 997 seal in my 2001 engine and it leaked within 3 hrs driving time. If the new seal worked what was the PN#. Hopefully find out soon what to use since it is going in the shop tomorrow.

I guess I should have updated this thread a long time ago.

I had the GT3 Motorsport seal fnally fitted May last year. Since then I have done about 6500 miles. The seal does not appear to be leaking.

While I will hold my breath on it. It is certainly a record. Typically the last 7 seals have leaked within weeks of being fitted if not days. The underside of my bellhousing is dry as a bone. But.....I still will hold my breath.

One other thing.... yes.....its fitted in reverse.

Update.

74,000 miles. And would you guess it. It leaks!

Well to be honest, it sort of leaks. It doesn't actually drop oil, it just sweats oil around the crank case.

But she still runs like a babe. Never uses any oil between oil changes.

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Have 2000 Tip (71k). Could use some help identifying a small oil leak. I do not have jack stands (would make it easier, I know) and haven't brought it in yet to have it lifted. But recently noticed small amounts of oil on garage floor slightly forward from engine (even with middle of rear wheels) and slightly off center towards drivers side.

Also, if it is the RMS, any Tip-specific advice re: having it fixed immediately or implications of waiting?

Thx for your help and advice.

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  • 1 month later...
So my first question is do I need the special Porsche tool detailed in the adobe article. I saw this write-up http://www.c-speedra...996rms/rms1.php and they seem to have done a good job but missed the use of the tool for the 5 mm recess...

I don't think that website does a good job at all describing how they got the new seal in. In fact, one picture looks like they are pounding it in directly with a mallot. Yikes. I also laughed at their use of a lip sealer tool to get it around the shaft, although perhaps the plastic lip installer tool included with every new RMS was not available at the time of the write up. I'm no expert, but I would NOT use their website as a guide for the actual seal installation, but they do a fairly good job at describing the tear down and install of everything else.

The new RMS has to go in very precicely (to very tight tolerances) and as round as possible to do it's job. A mallot by itself just won't do the trick.

A lot of people have made their own tools to gently "tap" the new seal in, using the same measurements as the genuine tool. This particular tool is by far my favorite, although it might be over engineered. The more elegant and simple solutions I've seen achieve the same using a 3" pvc fitting with another section of pipe cut to precise length that fits inside as a stop. That being said, the factory tool "draws" the seal in, whereas the home made tools I've seen require tapping it in place gently (although I suppose one could also build a tool to draw it in as well).

Just my 2 cents.

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  • 7 months later...

I hope I'm not repeating a post from someone else. (You try doing a search for RMS!!)

I see that the 997 seal has been updated! The latest number is 997.101.212.01. Must have happened quite recently.

Richard,

The parts list current only shows the 01 seal for new Cayennes and 997-2. It is not listed for 9x6 series cars (at this time).

Edited by Yash
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Loren,

I know this horse has been beaten to death, so please forgive me. I am about to replace the clutch in my 2003 996 C2; the engine currently is NOT leaking. Should I replace the RMS and IMS, or leave them alone? I hate to fix something that's not broken.

If you see no leaks I would leave them alone. (JMHO)

My 2000 Carerra is at the dealer for a clutch change, the service guy said it was not recommended to change the RMS seal, if it was not leaking.

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  • 1 year later...
A new tool was developed that placed it five millimeters further into the crank casing.

Wow dumb luck that when tapping my seal in using a large lantern flashlight as the guide I "accidentally" put it in about 5-6mm too deep. I was originally pissed off since couldn't get the thing to go in straight at all until figuring out to take the top off the light and use that as guide.

Edited by 987_RDC
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