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Hood/Trunk Latch Release Removal/Install


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Hood/Trunk Latch Release Removal/Install


Note: Part numbers sometimes change without notice. Always double check with your supplier that you have the latest part numbers. (photos courtesy of Steven Gliksman) Tools you will need: Torx T20 driver Small narrow regular screwdriver Plastic Spatula (or butter knife) 4 mm and 6 mm hex allen socket or 4 mm and 5 mm allen wrench Disassembling the release for front/rear lids Undo hexagon socket head bolts - Remove the plastic plugs and loosen (but do not remo

 

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  • 2 months later...
  • 3 weeks later...

Is it possible to obtain just the lever, and not the entire assembly? My painted plastic part is scratched/damaged, and I'd like to replace it, but my dealer only sells the entire assembly (large dark plastic housing, with both levers already attached). If the car has the memory seat option, the whole assembly sells for almost $500 and you can't get the levers separately. Any ideas? Thanks!

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I don't think you have a choice - I've heard they don't sell the silver mechanism anymore only the black Boxster version. I think that is why folks take them off and paint them themselves. When mine get scratched enough I will likely just paint them too.

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  • 1 month later...

Thanks for this post, it was very helpful!

My '99 C4 was a little different... I did not have any Torx screws. The three bolts holding the whole assembly down were 5 mm, and the bowden cable bolts were 3 mm. Both were allen-head cap screws.

By the way, the part number for the front hood lever is:

996.551.511.07

I bought it on eBay, but I'm sure you can have your dealer order it. It's about $100. Here's a picture:

post-7082-1149958768_thumb.jpg

It looks awesome once again!! Thanks!

post-7082-1149958804_thumb.jpg

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  • 8 months later...
Well here in the UK you can still buy the levers separately. Bought a luggage lever last week and (thanks Loren) just finished fitting it. Part No. 996 551 511 08 - but of course that is a RH drive lever!

Just read your post, nearly a year on, I am looking to replace my levers, I too am in the UK, where

can I buy them from

Regards

Phil

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I don't Porsche makes them available for US dealers stock anymore (that was the last I heard).

You might get lucky and find a dealer with some still in stock or get a dealer to order from Europe.

I am tempted to remove them and have the resprayed, my only concern is, I dont want to spray over the logos on the levers, does

anyone know the paint code for this silver?

Regards

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Well here in the UK you can still buy the levers separately. Bought a luggage lever last week and (thanks Loren) just finished fitting it. Part No. 996 551 511 08 - but of course that is a RH drive lever!

Just read your post, nearly a year on, I am looking to replace my levers, I too am in the UK, where

can I buy them from

Regards

Phil

Design 911 definitely have them http://www.design911.co.uk , but probably a good idea to try Porsch-Apart first http://www.porsch-apart.co.uk/

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  • 3 weeks later...
I don't Porsche makes them available for US dealers stock anymore (that was the last I heard).

You might get lucky and find a dealer with some still in stock or get a dealer to order from Europe.

I am tempted to remove them and have the resprayed, my only concern is, I dont want to spray over the logos on the levers, does

anyone know the paint code for this silver?

Regards

I would like to do the same! Paint codes anybody?

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A late update for anyone completing this DIY on a 2000 Cab:

It went just as described by Loren with the following exceptions on my car:

1. Disassembly Step 1: "Undo hexagon socket head bolts". Mine required a 4mm allen wrench.

2. Disassembly Step 3: "Release the Bowden cables". My cable retaining bolt required a 3mm allen wrench.

Other than that, all went well. Thanks for a great site.

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  • 8 months later...

I've been trying to loosen the three allen head bolts holding the sill in place.

I removed the plastic caps, and pulled the carper out of the way so I can at least see what appears to be the forward allen head bolt.

How in the world can I tell if I have the allen wrench on the forward bolt? Also how were you able to get to the middle and rear bolts as I can't even see them thorugh the holes

in the sill since there is no room between the seat and the sill. Any suggestions would be much appreciated.

A late update for anyone completing this DIY on a 2000 Cab:

It went just as described by Loren with the following exceptions on my car:

1. Disassembly Step 1: "Undo hexagon socket head bolts". Mine required a 4mm allen wrench.

2. Disassembly Step 3: "Release the Bowden cables". My cable retaining bolt required a 3mm allen wrench.

Other than that, all went well. Thanks for a great site.

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Unless you have just the right length allen it is hard to get to the allen bolts with the seat in place. Also hard to see them.

When we did it the seat was out. I would suggest you unbolt the seat, and perhaps you can move it around without having to remove it from the car. Once the seat is not blocking your view it is easy to loosen the allen bolts.

There seems to be a dispute if it is a 4 or 5mm allen. It has been a few years since I did this. I think it was a 5mm.

post-4-1201714266_thumb.jpg

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Hmmm - I guess the re-paint will have to wait until I have another reason to remove the seat.

Thanks for the feedback!

Unless you have just the right length allen it is hard to get to the allen bolts with the seat in place. Also hard to see them.

When we did it the seat was out. I would suggest you unbolt the seat, and perhaps you can move it around without having to remove it from the car. Once the seat is not blocking your view it is easy to loosen the allen bolts.

There seems to be a dispute if it is a 4 or 5mm allen. It has been a few years since I did this. I think it was a 5mm.

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Hmmm - I guess the re-paint will have to wait until I have another reason to remove the seat.

Thanks for the feedback!

Unless you have just the right length allen it is hard to get to the allen bolts with the seat in place. Also hard to see them.

When we did it the seat was out. I would suggest you unbolt the seat, and perhaps you can move it around without having to remove it from the car. Once the seat is not blocking your view it is easy to loosen the allen bolts.

There seems to be a dispute if it is a 4 or 5mm allen. It has been a few years since I did this. I think it was a 5mm.

You can get to these Allen bolts (honest, I've just had to do it myself after my battery went flat and I could not get to the engine to jump start the car) without removing the seat. Move the seat back and forth / up and down to gain access to each one. You then use the long end of a 5mm Allen key, at a slight angle. Undo the bolts three turns and then carefully prise up the mechanism.

Good luck.

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  • 3 months later...

Hmmm - I guess the re-paint will have to wait until I have another reason to remove the seat.

I just removed these bolts without removing my seat. It's a 5mm allen wrench for my 02 4S. Pull the plugs out slowly so you don't lose them and then insert the long end of the wrench into the hole. You have to stick the wrench in at least an inch before it engages the bolt. You don't have to remove the bolt completely, just loosen it. I removed mine completely and they fell down into a spot that was hard to retreive them.

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  • 5 weeks later...
  • 2 months later...
  • 1 month later...

I just replaced the front trunk lever. No need to paint the old one, I just Googled and found the handle at:

Performance Cars Marketplace

it cost me $112.72. Part # 996 551 511 07

Getting the bowden cables off was the biggest nuisance but I certainly could not have completed this project without DFC and Loren's great posts. It looks really good.

Alex

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