Jump to content

Welcome to RennTech.org Community, Guest

There are many great features available to you once you register at RennTech.org
You are free to view posts here, but you must log in to reply to existing posts, or to start your own new topic. Like most online communities, there are costs involved to maintain a site like this - so we encourage our members to donate. All donations go to the costs operating and maintaining this site. We prefer that guests take part in our community and we offer a lot in return to those willing to join our corner of the Porsche world. This site is 99 percent member supported (less than 1 percent comes from advertising) - so please consider an annual donation to keep this site running.

Here are some of the features available - once you register at RennTech.org

  • View Classified Ads
  • DIY Tutorials
  • Porsche TSB Listings (limited)
  • VIN Decoder
  • Special Offers
  • OBD II P-Codes
  • Paint Codes
  • Registry
  • Videos System
  • View Reviews
  • and get rid of this welcome message

It takes just a few minutes to register, and it's FREE

Contributing Members also get these additional benefits:
(you become a Contributing Member by donating money to the operation of this site)

  • No ads - advertisements are removed
  • Access the Contributors Only Forum
  • Contributing Members Only Downloads
  • Send attachments with PMs
  • All image/file storage limits are substantially increased for all Contributing Members
  • Option Codes Lookup
  • VIN Option Lookups (limited)

Recommended Posts

I knew when I bought my midnight blue metallic 997 that it would be hard to keep clean, and I was right. It's a great color, so its worth it. I'm just wondering if anyone has any tips with regard to the water that collects in the gap below the tail lights. No matter what I do, after I wash it, I can't seem to get all of it out until I drive the car. Then I'end up with water marks on the rear bumper from the water that finally comes out.

How do you guys deal with this?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Take a drive after wash! Usually moving the car will allow the water to drain out. Once car is back in parked position (in garage for example, run the towel around the edge. Leave the car to dry over night.

If you do have some water mark afterwards, just use a detail spray. Meguire has a nice one, Eagle and others work well too.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Take a drive after wash! Usually moving the car will allow the water to drain out. Once car is back in parked position (in garage for example, run the towel around the edge. Leave the car to dry over night.

If you do have some water mark afterwards, just use a detail spray. Meguire has a nice one, Eagle and others work well too.

Leaf blower works for me! :D

Deanski

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I use my air compressor, then follow-up with some Meguire's Quick Detail.

Another good option is to use compressed air that comes in spray cans...the kind you buy at a computer store to clean keyboards and such.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I know what you mean... Mine's Atlas Grey Metallic.

I agree with djantlive...

I just take her around the block, maybe a 3 minute drive.

This lets all the water drain out of the tail lights, door sills, mirrors, and spoiler... Not to mention cleans off that initial rust/pad dirt from the brakes.

Then I do a once over with the sheep skin and paper towel the wheels to get the new brake crud off them.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...
Then I do a once over with the sheep skin and paper towel the wheels to get the new brake crud off them.

Benny:

I put two coats of Rejex on my Sport Designs. The brake pad dust wipes off very easily. Worth a try for $15.

BTW, it works great on paint, too... <g>

-don

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I use my air compressor, then follow-up with some Meguire's Quick Detail.

Another good option is to use compressed air that comes in spray cans...the kind you buy at a computer store to clean keyboards and such.

Compressed air and Meguires works great. Thanks for the idea.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I know what you mean... Mine's Atlas Grey Metallic.

I agree with djantlive...

I just take her around the block, maybe a 3 minute drive.

This lets all the water drain out of the tail lights, door sills, mirrors, and spoiler... Not to mention cleans off that initial rust/pad dirt from the brakes.

Then I do a once over with the sheep skin and paper towel the wheels to get the new brake crud off them.

What does everyone do about the rust pad crap that pukes on the wheels after each wash? This sucks and i have not figured out how to not have to clean the wheels twice. I was always told that if you drive your car before drying it you are rubbing in the road dust you collect while on the drive so I don't do that. Get one of the water blades from Beverly Hills Motering and a Supper micro fiber towel from Giroits sp? and one towel will do the entire car. But there is still the wheel problem.

Edited by Porshce Nut
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 months later...

I also have an Atlas Gray Metallic C2S so water marks show externally easily..

I do a few things to dry the car properly.

1) I use the Mr. Clean Spot free system to rinse the car. Although you are supposed to just rinse & let the car air dry, that does not work that well so I still hand dry the car. But the benefit to using it is that if you do miss an area it wont leave a water mark

2) for the rear light I slide in the edge of the towel between the bottom of the tail light and the bumper & let it suck up the excess water.

3) for the wheels I give it a quick dry Then I move the car a couple of feet to make sure that any extra water collected on the brakes drains out. Then I dry them properly. Because of the wheel that I have on the car (Avus) water still collect in the center of the wheel. To clean that up, I just place a shop towel at the bottom of the wheel & let it soak up any excess water while I finish drying the rest of the car.

It's a bit tedious but once you get the hang of it it only adds a few extra minutes to my wash time...

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I only see that liquid rust on the wheels if I don't drive the car right away... If I leave it for a few hours it's also difficult to stop the first time...

The only solutions I've found are to either touch-up the wheels after that 1st drive or take her around the block right after washing and then doing a few touch-ups. The quick drive dries the pads...

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 11 months later...
I knew when I bought my midnight blue metallic 997 that it would be hard to keep clean, and I was right. It's a great color, so its worth it. I'm just wondering if anyone has any tips with regard to the water that collects in the gap below the tail lights. No matter what I do, after I wash it, I can't seem to get all of it out until I drive the car. Then I'end up with water marks on the rear bumper from the water that finally comes out.

How do you guys deal with this?

By the newer 997.5 cars,--they redesigned the rear lights which fixed that problem.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I knew when I bought my midnight blue metallic 997 that it would be hard to keep clean, and I was right. It's a great color, so its worth it. I'm just wondering if anyone has any tips with regard to the water that collects in the gap below the tail lights. No matter what I do, after I wash it, I can't seem to get all of it out until I drive the car. Then I'end up with water marks on the rear bumper from the water that finally comes out.

How do you guys deal with this?

By the newer 997.5 cars,--they redesigned the rear lights which fixed that problem.

Um, not.

I now own a 2006 S, after the 2005 got whacked by a Suburban (Suburban was totalled, 997 survived). I still have the same issue with the '06, but I've solved it by using compressed air from a can. I use it on the front turn indicators, around the side mirrors & side markers, and around the tail lights. Works like a champ.

While I'm on the cleaning thread, I've settled on using Zaino a few times a year as a sealant. I love how easy Zaino Z2 is to put on, and how long it lasts. Recently I tried out Griot's Spray on Wax as an added layer. You can apply the Spray on Wax while the car is still damp. I go over the car once with a large micro-fiber to get most of the water off, then spray the wax on as I finish drying the car. It really makes the finish pop, and requires hardly any more work than drying the car. I still use Zaino as a sealant, just put the Griots on top when I wash the car.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.