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Help... PSE cutout


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You will need to trace the pink/grey wire from the PSE Relay What you have is a photo of Jumper Plug 1/1.

First, find the rear of the connector that has your PSE relay. This is on the Relay Support Bracket (this is the bracket under the drivers footwell that has all of the relays in it). The RSB will have to be loosened to look at the rear of it. This relay could be in any position( it is usually in the top or middle row), but one way to find it is to look for the P/N of the relay which is 996.618.980.0X, where X is the revision number.

Once you have found the relay connector, now look for the Pink/grey wire which will be on pin/slot 6 of the back of the connector. This is the one that you should disconnect. Disconnecting this wire will disable the 25-45 MPH quiet mode.

You have a few options for disconnecting this wire.

1. Just cut the wire.

2. Using a pin extractor tool, remove it from slot 6 of the relay connector.

3. Follow to pink/grey wire to jumper plug 1/1 in slot 23 of the relay support bracket and remove the wire from that end. Jumper plug 1/1 in slot 23 is the distribution terminal for all of the electronics in the car that require a speedometer signal for one thing or another.

Hope this helps.

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Gruezi!

I read about people bending the respective pin on the 'Abgasklappen'-relay itself but you can do that just once and maybe back again. Otherwise it will just break. Maybe you can pull the relay and put some thin tape on the pin to isolate it and the re-insert.

Thorsten

Edited by toddel68
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Hi,

Instinctively that's what I did last night, many thanks Orient express !

As I am in Switzerland I have to keep the quiet mode between 29 and 45 mph (for inspections each tree years at the "Bureau des Autos" (DMV in your country)).

So what I need to do is add a switch so I can have those solutions :

- Always loud.

- Always silent.

or

- Quiet between 29 and 45 mph

- Always silent.

I don't know what is the best solution for this... Is it possible to order a wire and a connector at Porsche (maybe there are some references)? I don't want to cut any original wire :

wire.jpg

I think i will disconnect the original wire and put another wire and connector on position 23 and connect them together on a switch like this one... :

p65a.jpg

The only thing is I don't know what caracteristics the switch has to have...

Edited by Mendrax
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So what I need to do is add a switch so I can have those solutions :

- Always loud.

- Always silent.

or

- Quiet between 29 and 45 mph

- Always silent.

I think i will disconnect the original wire and put another wire and connector on position 23 and connect them together on a switch like this one... :

If your plan is to simply interrupt the speed wire (pink/gray) with a switch, then you will have a situation in which your car is factory normal (quiet between 29-45) when the switch is 'on', and NOT quiet in this speed range when the switch is 'off'.

The current is so light that the volt/ohm rating of the switch is not important. You need the R61 .... Single Pole, Single Throw (SPST) that is NOT momentary contact.

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So what I need to do is add a switch so I can have those solutions :

- Always loud.

- Always silent.

or

- Quiet between 29 and 45 mph

- Always silent.

I think i will disconnect the original wire and put another wire and connector on position 23 and connect them together on a switch like this one... :

If your plan is to simply interrupt the speed wire (pink/gray) with a switch, then you will have a situation in which your car is factory normal (quiet between 29-45) when the switch is 'on', and NOT quiet in this speed range when the switch is 'off'.

The current is so light that the volt/ohm rating of the switch is not important. You need the R61 .... Single Pole, Single Throw (SPST) that is NOT momentary contact.

Well I have the factory switch which allows to have the car quiet. I need another switch to be able to interrupt the speed wire.

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Well I have the factory switch which allows to have the car quiet. I need another switch to be able to interrupt the speed wire.

Well, then, you can do that as described in my post.

Since you have the factory loud/quiet switch, why can you not simply switch it to quiet while getting your government inspection?

Then, if they are happy, you could simply cut the speed wire.

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Hi everybody

Very interesting. I just join the forum for this specific topic.

I have another problem.

When I bought my car, the PSE was silent, whatever the switch position. The vendor (Porsche approved) told me it was just a valve being seized. Five minutes in the workshop, it was fixed and I had "my noise" say music...

A month after, during a nice trip in the Pyrénées, my nice noise is gone again.

Any idea were that valve could be? And what I should do?

Thanks

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It could be the valves in the backpipes. Have a peek underneath and you should see an actuating lever that controls the valve. You should see if it's siezed or not.

Regards

Popolou

Edited by Popolou
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I have another problem.

When I bought my car, the PSE was silent, whatever the switch position. The vendor (Porsche approved) told me it was just a valve being seized. Five minutes in the workshop, it was fixed and I had "my noise" say music...

A month after, during a nice trip in the Pyrénées, my nice noise is gone again.

Any idea were that valve could be? And what I should do?

The valve is most likely the vacuum switch that, electrically controlled by your dash switch, routes vacuum pressure to open and close the two bypass actuators, one on each muffler.

This vacuum switch is labeled "switch" in this photo:

post-3787-1151266510_thumb.jpg

The vacuum controlled by this switch is routed to these actuators:

post-3787-1151266612_thumb.jpg

The normal position for these actuators is "noisy". It takes vacuum pressure to close them to the "quiet" position. Since yours are permanently on quiet, it is my guess that either both are stuck (not likely), or the vacuum switch is stuck in the actuated (quiet) position.

Start your car and then give the switch a tap with a tool handle. See if that makes a difference. If it does not, then disconnect the vacuum source and output from the switch. That should allow the muffler actuators to revert to the spring loaded, noisy position. It that works, it is a clear sign that your switch is bad.

You may need to replace the switch.

Edited by Kim
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I would like to buy another grey/pink wire but Porsche doesn't sell it. What are the specs of this wire ?

I am not familiar with European wire size specs, but this is a very light duty wire .... they all are in the PSE installation. In U.S. terms, I would say to stay somewhere in the 20/22/24 guage range, and you couldn't go wrong.

For comparison, an electric lamp cord in the US is 18 guage. (higher number = smaller wire size).

Hope that helps.

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Ok... I tested the 2 switches... everything was working perfectly, i was happy... and 3 hours later... nothing was working anymore...

The switch on the dash still has the light working but the car is always loud...

There is no vaccum leak.

How to get the car quiet (is there a temporary solution as I use the car in town) ?

What do I have to test ?

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Ok... I tested the 2 switches... everything was working perfectly, i was happy... and 3 hours later... nothing was working anymore...

The switch on the dash still has the light working but the car is always loud...

There is no vaccum leak.

How to get the car quiet (is there a temporary solution as I use the car in town) ?

What do I have to test ?

First, check the work you have just done with the newly installed switch. It is my experience that whenever something suddenly stops working, the first place to look is any change I have recently made.

As noted earlier, the PSE defaults to Loud. It takes activation of the console switch to cause the vacuum switch to route vacuum pressure to close the actuators and make the mufflers Quiet.

With ignition OFF, you should read no ground or current in the either of the 2 contacts in the red connector at the vacuum switch.

With ignition ON, PSE Switch Loud (light off), you should read nothing in the lower contact (GY/RD wire), and 12V in the upper contact (RD/BU wire).

With ignition ON, PSE Switch Quiet (light On), you should read Ground in the lower contact (GY/RD wire), and 12V in the upper contact (RD/BU wire). It is this completion of circuit (current and ground) that activates the vacuum switch and ports vacuum pressure to the acutators to move them to Quiet.

If you are full time Loud, then I would start with the contact in the red connector at the vacuum switch. With ignition on, do you have the 12v current in the upper contact (RD/BU wire)? If not, trace the wiring back to fuse (B10, I think) in search of the break.

If the current is present in the upper contact, then activate the PSE switch to Quiet, and check for ground in the lower contact (GY/RD wire). If it is not grounded, then trace the wire back to the relay (Term A5) in search of a break.

If you have found all normal at this point, then you will have to trouble shoot the connections between the PSE switch and the relay. That is another ball of wax altogether. One quick check is to see that you have 12v into the switch (RD/BU wire).

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Thank you Kim I will check tomorrow !

Tell me if I am wrong but I dont think it is the connection between the dash switch and the relay as I doesn't even get quiet between 29 and 45 mph...

Another thing is all was working perfectly... I don't think it's a short circuit as it happened 3 hours later ?

Maybe it's the relay itself ?

Edited by Mendrax
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Thank you Kim I will check tomorrow !

Tell me if I am wrong but I dont think it is the connection between the dash switch and the relay as I doesn't even get quiet between 29 and 45 mph...

Another thing is all was working perfectly... I don't think it's a short circuit as it happened 3 hours later ?

Maybe it's the relay itself ?

The fact that the auto cutout does not work would lead one away from the switch, but not entirely. The speed signal feeds into the relay, but it could then theoretically (internally) be using some path to ground that originates with or passes through the switch. I have not analyzed the signal through the relay that completely.

It is entirely possible that some of the work you completed in adding your extra switch could have come undone. Connections, especially add-ons or tap-in connections are notorious for working lose.

I am attaching the wiring diagram in case you don't already have it.

post-3787-1151871095_thumb.jpg

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