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About BufordTJustice

  • Rank

Profile Fields

  • From
    Mount Dora, FL
  • Porsche Club
  • Present cars
    1999 911 Carrera Cabriolet (996, C2, 6-speed, Arctic Silver)
  • Future cars
    A Turbo of 996 or later vintage
  • Former cars
  1. Exactly what I suspected. Thank you. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  2. JFP, what is your opinion of those stiffening transmission mount inserts? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  3. JFP, do you recall the name of the guy/Company who modifies factory mufflers, does the "gundo" mod properly, and then can recoat them in ceramic? I can't recall the name off the top of my head. Sent from my SPH-L720T using Tapatalk
  4. tire recommendation

    N Spec Michelin Pilot Super Sports are great on my 99 911 C2 Cab. Conti has a new extreme contact model as well. Not sure if it's N rated. I bought through tire track and they have been excellent. I'm very pleased. Sent from my SPH-L720T using Tapatalk
  5. Broken front strut top bolt

    Replacement strut top plate assembly came in from Pelican two days early. YES! The top stud pressed out with a vice without issue. Now for some sleeve retaining compound and it goes back in. Sent from my SPH-L720T using Tapatalk
  6. Broken front strut top bolt

    Drilled out from the top, starting with a small pilot bit. Ended with an 8mm drift punch that knocked the rest of it out of the bottom. If the new stud is super difficult to remove from the new top plate assembly, I'll grab some grade-8 M8 bolts with a double stack of heat treated washers to use on the bottom, paired with the factory nut on the top. VOY-LUH. Thank you to everybody who had posted thus far. I greatly appreciate your input and all of it was taken into consideration, I assure you. I'll post final pictures when I get the bolt/stud reinstalled. Sent from my SPH-L720T using Tapatalk
  7. Broken front strut top bolt

    Here is the part on order with the studs. Sent from my SPH-L720T using Tapatalk
  8. Broken front strut top bolt

    Noted and thank you. I'm going to leave the others at 30 until the suspension gets redone as the troubled nut seemed wonky from the start. Regardless, thank you for the correct values. Sent from my SPH-L720T using Tapatalk
  9. Okay, I had a very light rattle from the left front that I noticed only after discarding my old, poorly worn Pirelli Pzero Assimetrico tires in favor of new Michelin Pilot super Sport tires. I went to check torque on the front strut top plate bolts. I set my calibrated torque wrench to 30 foot pounds (I know the spec is 35). All 3 nuts on the front passenger strut were fine and didn't move. The rear two nuts on the driver side were also tight. The front most nut on the driver's side KEPT TURNING. It felt as if it was only hand tight as it didn't provide enough resistance to allow the ratchet mechanism to function at all. I immediately stopped and tried to thread it by hand, but no dice. Another 1/4 turn and no building of resistance. Another 1/4 turn and still no additional resistance. The third 1/4 turn and the resistance DROPS. It was at this point that I realized I was not merely compressing the rubber gasket between the top plate and the chassis, but that the stud was broken. I removed the deep well socket and torque wench to observe that the stud was now canted. Dammit. Fears confirmed. I can only guess that the nut was not tight and the out of balance front tires vibrated and weakened the stud through minute movement. But guess is all I can do. So, I would love to hear that I don't have to disassemble the entire front driver's side suspension to extract that stud (the bottom of which is easily visible and accessible through the wheel well). Is there a way to knock that stud out and then thread the new one up from the bottom without removing the strut? I have a new nut and strut top plate on order from Pelican. The strut top plate has the three studs, which it appears one could either be pressed or threaded out and transferred to the plate in the vehicle and re-torqued. I haven't even sat in the vehicle since this happened, much less driven it. So, I think no movement has occurred. Help appreciated. All experience solicited. Sent from my SPH-L720T using Tapatalk
  10. I think I see where you're going with this.... Sent from my SPH-L720T using Tapatalk
  11. Then you're going to want to have a look at the OP sensor, and then the oil pump mechanism itself.
  12. It's still possible that you may need more viscosity. Might want to look at Mobil-1 5w-50. It got up to 98 in the shade here in Orlando today and I can only imagine what another 10 degrees F would do to oil temps and film thickness. The fact that the issue disappears at anything but those high temps is a clue. In fact, at 108 degrees, you could likely use Mobil-1 15w-50 and not get variocam errors! Yikes!
  13. EDIT: I just read that you've got 5w-40 in the car now. Is the LM oil you're using A40 rated? Mobil revised their 0w-40 formulation to make it even thinner than before (it starts at BARELY a 40-weight oil) and, if your temps are in the elevated range, this means you're essentially running a Xw-30 oil. The Mobil has also shown to sheer (lose viscosity) quickly. Add in some fuel dilution, and you could be rocking a 30-weight oil in terms of viscosity and not even know it. How many miles on the oil in the crankcase? Lots of short trips? Also, you may want to look at the updated (and backspec'd) oil pressure regulating spring and valve. http://www.pelicanparts.com/catalog/SuperCat/0896/POR_0896_ENGOIL_pg5.htm#item14 Valve: 997-107-125-01-M100 Spring: 996-107-127-53-M100 If you haven't done this already, I recommend it. I gained about 1/4 BAR of oil pressure simply from doing the upgrade...and the parts are CHEAP. Easy to do while changing your oil, too.
  14. Lost Radio Code - post your request here

    Thank you, sir! Worked great!!! Sent from my SPH-L720T using Tapatalk
  15. Lost Radio Code - post your request here

    CDR-220 TYPE: 4462 Radio SN: X5020110 Thanks in advance. Sent from my SPH-L720T using Tapatalk

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