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Hey everyone, i own a 2010 porsche Boxter 2.9L with the PDK transmission.. yesterday after leaving the car for a 4 days i started it and went for a drive.. when i turned it on again, i got a warning message “emergency transmission run” and the car became very jerky through gearshifts and wouldnt accelerate properly.. after turning it on and off the message went away and it drove just fine but then it kept re-appearing mid drives and becomes very jerky and clunky...ive noticed since i had the car that the gearbox was sometimes clunky or would make a noise when changing gear but the dealership said that was fine and normal since its a PDK, the car is at 59,000km so its time for a transmission fluid change... could this be a low voltage problem, or transmission fluid? The reverse gear works just fine.. has this happened to any other owners?
Late 2004 Boxster Base Tiptronic with 45,000 miles
I have racked up 15,000 miles over the last 3 years of ownership. The coolant was flushed about a year prior to purchase. I think it's time to flush the coolant. I plan to buy the Airlift tool - it's a time vs cost issue, time wins.
I know from searching that JFP has recommended to others to replace the water pump as preventative maintenance on a car this age. Fair enough. Porsche pump, clean the mating surfaces carefully and:
1. Use gasket sealant or no sealant?
2. Should I replace the coolant reservoir even though I cannot find anything wrong with it?
I'll replace the thermostat at the same time.
3. Should it be the 160 degree thermostat?
3a. I notice that the car runs between 190 - 210 degrees (using Scangauge) most of the time in warm weather, so will the 160 stat be a benefit?
4. Which hoses should be replaced?
5. Anything else?
Since the start of ownership I've done mostly preventative and general maintenance with very few actual failures of any kind. With that being said, I think mileage is beginning to expose some common failures cropping up like what happened yesterday - the turn signal stalk won't hold in-place, so now I need to replace it but at least getting the 4-stalk version will give me the OBC functions.
By Liam Strauss
Me and my dad have recently bought a 2001 Porsche Boxster that has not been run in 2 years, as a "fairly easy" project to start with. So where to begin we did all the basics for a car that hasn't run in 2 years, we replaced the spark plugs and tubes, so then when we tried to throw some gas in it wont let us, we have checked the E6 fuse as was suggested on other forums, we slowly threw in some gas at a time, about 5 gallons in total. When we tried to start it it didn't, so when we tried to troubleshoot we found that it has no spark. So does anyone have any idea or suggestions on how to fix any or all of these things?
Having an issue with the heater in my 2000 Boxster S. It fogs up the windows when the heater is on. If I turn the AC button on the fog stops but the air temperature is no longer hot or warm even. The moisture coming out seems to have an odd smell to it. It's either old nasty water or perhaps antifreeze. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
My first post here so please bear with me but pretty desperate for help. Have 2004 Boxster S and its, in general, running a bit rough (feels fuel rich). It also will also, on occasion, not go. Pulling up at a busy intersection and car reduces to Idle. Then put the foot down and the car stays at idle. Normally an engine restart gets things going again (although not always and sometimes requires a few goes).
Bought a computer reader and found error codes
P0102: Factory Fault code 115 - Mass air flow sensor - below limit
P2135: Accelerator Pedal - Signal Implausible
P0121: Factor Fault code 117 - Throttle value or accelerator pedal potentiometer - signal implausible
P1266: Factory Fault Code 409 - Fuel shutoff function monitor - signal implausible
Took the car to Porsche. They suggest a MAF sensor was the root cause and replaced it. It felt better for a few days then problem returned. They replaced another MAF sensor.. Same problem. They then said the MAF reads 0 and have checked the cables so its me DME and it needs replacing (not cheap)
Have taken the car back home and looked at the likely affecting values myself from the computer.
The computer shows to different values for MAF
Mass air flow (HFM) is always 0 regardless of if the car is working correctly or not and at any accelerator level
Mass air flow seems to move within a range of 18 (idle) to 100 (full throttle)
2. Throttle (since it had error codes on this)
Pedal encoder potentiometer 1 and 2 always move and the pedal value goes from 0-100% when its working but stays at 0 when its not. Since the potentiometers always move I am assuming the DME simply can't add things up so sticks the pedal value at 0.
ie. The MAF sensor reading above confuses the DME and it reduces the throttle to 0. That feel consistent with the behaviour of the car (its just sticks at idle)
Any one with any clues? Certainly don't want to replace the DME unless absolutely necessary....