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Loren

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Everything posted by Loren

  1. Loren
    You should have started the car with the belt off to ruleout the pulleys and A/C, alternator, and water pump. It is okay to run it for a few seconds for that test.
  2. Loren
    I don't know that they (boot and ring) can be separated...
  3. Loren
    If you are talking about the shift boot - yes. 5 speed and 6 speed shift boots (and even knobs) are interchangeable.
  4. Loren
    The throttle body does not have to be removed - but it is easier to clean with it off the car (IMHO). It can be easily taken off - four bolts and the electrical connector as I recall. Here is one I removed at a work on cars day last year (2000 Boxster). Tariq had the same problem with an occasional erratic idle. Cleaning and reinstalling did the trick. (my hand - Tool Pants pic) The car does not need to be running when cleaning since you will need to open the butterfly with your fingers to clean around and behind it.
  5. Loren
    I would check and see if your throttle butterfly is gummed up with carbon. Do a search here and you will see that many idle problems are related to carbon buildup and the throttle butterfly. Cleaning is also covered...
  6. Loren
    Not unless you re-wire the car for the fiber optic MOST system, add the MOST controllers, change instrument cluster and DME - so I would say no.
  7. Loren
    Tell us the codes when you get them...
  8. Loren
    The belt part number is: 996.102.151.66 - MSRP is $34.94 but you can likely get it for less from Sunset Imports (Porsche Parts at Dealer Cost - link near top of page)
  9. Loren
    I don't think you really want to take the dash off. You will end up with even more rattles. (pic courtesy Tool Pants) There is a 9 page TSB that deals with noises in the dashboard area - with a Porsche fix for each type of noise. Contributing Members here can view all TSBs online here.
  10. Loren
    Does your car have air conditioning? Is it RoW or US/Canada? (these make a difference in the part number as the belt for A/C is longer)
  11. Loren
    I agree it is most likely a connector(s) not fully sealted or cracked coil packs.
  12. Loren
    No other reader than the Durametric (and of course a PST2) can turn off the air bag light AND read the fault codes for alarm, airbag, ABS, seat memory and heating & A/C. I think the Durametric Software is a good investment. They are in Oregon so call or email them - they can likely expidite the able to you. And, I think they can email you the software.
  13. Loren
    Then please state that when you post... thank you. See the Forum Note at the top of the page "It is really helpful if you list: · Model year · Model/Engine (i.e. Boxster 2.5, Boxster 2.7, Boxster S, Boxster S Special Edition, etc.) · Transmission type (i.e. 5 speed, 6 speed or Tiptronic) · Interior color (when relevant) · Country specific information (LHD, RHD, RoW, US, Canada)" It is hard to help someone when we have so little information...
  14. Loren
    I would push the clutch in and see if the sound changes to ruleout the transmission. Then (with the engine off) open the engine compartment and check the polyrib belt, pulleys and alternator mounting. I would not drive a car that sounded like that until I found out what the problem is and how bad it may have damaged things.
  15. Loren
    The RoW GT3 mark I (not sold in the US) came with 8 x 18 fronts and 10 x 18 rears in MY99 to MY02. Just as today that car was the basis for the GT3 Cup and GT3R race cars. I wouldn't say much more oversteer perhaps less understeer.
  16. Loren
    Hmm... looks just like a B&M to me...
  17. Loren
    ... or an Autozone. Autozone will read your code for free. Write your codes down (all of them) and then report back here. Have a look at the Durametric Software. If you have a laptop to run it on this is a very good/quick fault code reading and resetting software. Simple to use. Durametric Software
  18. Loren
    If your car is not shifting right before a short shifter install then it won't shift right afterwards. The B&M (or others) won't fix that. If you have any difficulty shifting it is best to align the cables (get the cheap plastic tool from Porsche) and test the shifting before replacing the shifter mechanism.
  19. Loren
    Any pics of the shifter and install?
  20. Loren
    That is correct - I doubt any are backwards compatible. In some case there were firmware upgrades (performed by dealers) also.
  21. Loren
    If you have the same problem then the same question applies... Do you have any P-codes?
  22. Loren
    I sent you a PM with some info...
  23. Loren
    That is correct.
  24. Loren
    If you look at the Porsche part and B&M part for the 986 and 996 the only difference was the color - :lol: http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?s...findpost&p=2935
  25. Loren
    1. Correct. That is documented here. 2. Correct also. We've found it best to tighten it down - then back off until it freely moves back and forth in neutral. 3. Correct again. Once the console is re-installed there is no way to adjust the B&M shifter without either removing the console again or making a cutout in the console. I usually make folks drive around the block a couple time with the console still out to make sure it set to the tightness they want. Then we button it up again. BTW... I've never seen one that needed adjusting again - including mine which I installed in 2000.
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