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Everything posted by Loren

  1. 955 505 521 02 G2X for a Turbo lower valence (without rear mount spare tire) 03 with rear mount spare tire.
  2. There is a new procedure (Supplement 66 in 2002) in the service manual that says the dealer is to perform two tests (for leaks). One is the normal pressure test and the second is a vacuum test (which is also how they recommend to fill the system without air bubbles). You might ask if your dealer is aware of this. Also, make sure you have the new design radiator cap. All Carrera's (and Boxster's) should be using 996 107 447 01. The old part number which ended in 00 did not seal correctly. The caps are only $14-$15 so definitely replace it if you need to. (Thanks to the guys at RMG Enterprises for this tip!)
  3. Have a look at the DIY here. It was written for the Carrera but the Boxster is the same (except the motor faces the other direction :D )
  4. Could be a loose connection at the back of the radio (you will need the Becker radio removal keys- $1.80 from Becker) or a loose connection at the CD-Changer in the front trunk. Those are pretty east to check since they are usually stuffed under the changer.
  5. Xenons are standard are all TT's Time to upgrade ;) :lol:
  6. Well, the coolant has to be going somewhere. If your dealer did the pressure test correctly then it may be time to look at your oil. It will not be good news if there is coolant in your oil.
  7. Here is my take on your problem... All of the symptoms are consistent with the instrument cluster except for the climate control. Yes, even the spoiler switch goes through the instrument cluster. The climate control could be a broken wire somewhere from the accident.
  8. Tiptronic steering wheel and 6 speed shifter knob :lol:
  9. The PSE (when hooked up) automatically triggers quiet mode based on speed. It gets the signal from the same wire that the radio uses for speed dependent volume. If the switch is installed per factory specs this will still occur but you will also have the option to go into quiet mode at other times too. If you install the switch and the mod I mentioned in the message above you will have manual control of the quiet mode at all times (speed dependent change is disabled). Sorry, I don't know the UK laws. Perhaps someone from the UK can answer this part.
  10. Well, it's mainly a matter of taste. Your taste. For me, I left all the electronics and vacuum stuff out and run it open all the time. The factory setting is mainly for a couple of countries in Europe where they have noise laws between 30-45 klms. Installing the wiring and vacuum stuff is a big job - 8-10 hours. You have to do a lot to run a wire from the engine compartment to the front relay panel and also to the dash. Just changing the mufflers is less than 1 hour. The switch mod described here is much better solution if you decide to add the electronics and vacuum stuff. In the end do what you want - I don't think you will have "noise law" problems unless you drive through your neighborhood at 5000 RPM :rolleyes: If you need the factory install instructions let me know.
  11. I think you can do this without taking the whole thing off. I don't know what Jeff's idea is but here is what I used. I have this tool that I can't remember when I bought (but likely about the time I was breaking the head stud off my 914 :cursing: ). It looks like two flat metal bars (with a hole in the center of one) and with two thumb screws between them. I think you could do the same with a couple of c-clamps and metal bars (one with a hole and one without). The metal bar lets the bolt push through while applying even pressure on the second bar (on the bolt end) via thumb screws.
  12. Sorry to be late into this... (was working on the site) Jeff is correct that the serrated bolt is not what is shown in the parts list. But the original bolts are the serrated stud type (at least they are on my car). If you look at these bolts they are made of some copper or brass content alloy as they bend and deform when tightened. A new exhaust nut does not even look round and it deforms and locks as you tighten it. I agree with Jeff that if one of these is broken off the best thing to do is press it out -- you really don't want to shear off a head bolt (ask me how I know sometime... :blink:
  13. Don, I use 0W-40 year round in California. Temps range from upper 20's in winter to 110 in the summer. I don't think the 5W is going to add much. If I were to run anything different in the summer I would run 15W-50. JMHO :D
  14. No, not unless the car came with the CD-Changer Option. The cable harness is very easy to add. You need to find find a UK Becker dealer. There is a company in the US (Continental Imports) that sells a kit that includes the changer (Becker 2660) , wiring harness, and mounting bracket for about $430 (US). The bracket and wiring harness have Porsche part numbers but some Becker dealer may carry them also. Again, I suggest starting with a Becker dealer search Becker Europe website. Installation takes about an hour and just requires routing the harness and connecting both ends. Once you get the parts ask again and Jeff or I will did up some pics.
  15. Right at the Max mark. When I refilled mine (after installing the 3rd radiator) it has stayed there regardless of temperature. As I said before, some of the early tanks gave erroneous low coolant signals.
  16. Jeff, is correct. As of MY02 with the returnless fuel system there is no more fuel filter on the Carrera either.
  17. I am not sure for PCM I. The dealer PST2 update CDs come almost one per month and somtimes they include small changes to older systems without any explaination (kind of like Microsoft eh?).
  18. There are several PCM2 updates (especially for BOSE systems). The latest ones on TSB are dated November 24, 2003.
  19. Here is the Fiber Optic only layout - front of the car is to the left. The PDF version is here (about 1.5 MB - ignore the RHD as both LHD and RHD are the same)
  20. Also, there are PCM software updates that you may need. Check with your dealer and ask them if TSB 11/02 9110 and TSB 10/02 9112 need to be performed. Both are software updates.
  21. Porsche uses (999 917 557 00) Krytox lubricant on the main bow to stop squeaks. There are some other aftermarket products that do the same. Apply it thinly to the rubber spacer between the main box and the roof frame (top half open).
  22. I stand corrected on this. The MY03 schematics now include a schematic for the PSE. If anyone needs this just drop me a PM.
  23. There were a number of cooling related problems on early MY99 cars that should have already been taken care of. They include: - a new tank design for both leaks and random coolant light flashing - a new coolant tank cap (leaks) - new hose clamps for some that leaked If it is any of these problems then a "good" dealer would work with PCNA to try and get you repaired under warranty or at least with a reduced cost. Worst case most of these things are relatively easy to fix for the DIY'er. Search the DIY section for tank replacement instructions if you need to do this. Good Luck! :thumbup:
  24. Okay, perhaps this will help (for MY03 and I suspect newer)... or download a PDF image here
  25. Most of the after market air intake mods seek to let the engine "breath" better. That is, they try to increase the amount of air the engine can take in. So, to some degree the it is a low restriction air filter. The stock system has a baffle in the air filter housing that reduces noise and air flow somewhat and the filter is intended to keep out as much dirt as possible. So this system seeks to allow more air and less "draw" restriction. As far as performance I doubt there is more than 1-2 hp from a mod like this... but it does have a good intake sound ;) CEL is Check Engine Light also sometimes referred to as MIL (Malfunction Indicator Light). As I said, the vendor said "most" folks didn't have a problem. Frankly, I never understood that because it is basically a tube and different filter. My best guess (on what happened with it on my car) is that perhaps the MAF (Mass Air Flow Sensor) was not aligned properly on the tube portion (misaligned weld?) and was reading incorrect air volume readings. Finally, the other thing that concerned me about this product is that it likely draws more warm or hot (engine) air than the stock housing. For my 2 cents -- I think a better solution is one like Fabspeed came up with that removes the stock baffle and adds a low restriction filter all while using the stock housing to draw in cool outside air. end of :soapbox:
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