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Loren

Admin
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Everything posted by Loren

  1. Item 14 is the hood bump stops (1 per side). Try adjusting these first - I do not think I have ever seen them adjusted that bad so you may need to open the hood and take a pic of the corners.
  2. Are you serious? :huh: That is exactly what I drive and since my signal turn lever is broken I was considering the OBC hack! Best, Gus Contributing Member AnneH has done the 4th stalk retrofit on a 2001 Boxster - so I am sure it can be done.
  3. :welcome: Someone told you wrong - those are 996 Carrera wheels (optional) - they will fit fine.
  4. Please PM me the week of the WOCD and I will send you directions. Thanks.
  5. Thanks, yes that makes sense, but do you know if the turbos are oiled by the engine oil, or are they on a system of their own that requires oil to be added in a seperate location? Thanks, Yes, it is engine oil fed through pipes. Here is the 996TT Oil Circuit (item 14 is the turbos)
  6. Most dealers don't change the oil in the turbos. Some DIY'er do and some don't. If you change the oil in the turbos plan on an additional 1 hour just for them to cool down enough to touch.
  7. Sounds like you need a new ignition switch.
  8. I believe the high mount 3rd light is LED based. Are they all out or just one section? Here is the thread on how to remove the top of the spoiler (to get to it): http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?s...st&p=118245
  9. All Boxster's have the emergency front and rear release cables. Perhaps you are confusing it with the - inside the trunk emergency release cable (Trunk Entrapment) - those started in MY03.
  10. Use the emergency cable behind the right front wheel well. Replace the battery.
  11. Sorry, then you need to find the right wire.
  12. Just drain out some of the coolant (say 1 gallon) and then add in undiluted coolant. Drive with the bleeder valve open for a couple of days and you should be fine.
  13. Sounds like the dealer/OPC needs to more diagnostic work with their PIWIS tester.
  14. The 6 ranges for 997 GT3 are: Range 1: 9000-9200 RPM Range 2: 9200-9400 RPM Range 3: 9400-9600 RPM Range 4: 9600-10000 RPM Range 5: 10000-11000 RPM Range 6: 11000 and up RPM
  15. You can never go wrong if mark the cables or count the threads and then put them back where they came from. (Unless, of course, it was not adjusted correctly in the first place -- but you would notice that). shift is precise and no functional problem. so should I just leave it as is? Yes.
  16. You can never go wrong if mark the cables or count the threads and then put them back where they came from. (Unless, of course, it was not adjusted correctly in the first place -- but you would notice that).
  17. Yes, but I would bleed them twice. Since you will no brake fluid in them at all when you re-install. BTW... I deleted your second post ont he same subject - please do not double post. Doesn't matter you still want to bleed the brakes. As long as you don't open the PSM or ABS lines they do not need additional bleeding.
  18. There are several pink/gray wires - so if you cut the wrong one then other things may not work. Do you want to disable the PSE cutout all the time? If so, then just unplug the solenoid on the engine and it will never switch.
  19. Yes, but I would bleed them twice. Since you will no brake fluid in them at all when you re-install. BTW... I deleted your second post ont he same subject - please do not double post.
  20. 999.919.160.07 oval head screw -- US MSRP $1.62 each
  21. :welcome: You will need to remove the door panel to see what is going on. Could be a broken latch or disconnected actuator.
  22. You can look those up in the Owners Manuals (in the Download Section).
  23. You are going to need to investigate what is damaged behind the bumper - pics would help.
  24. If you have not already read the FAQ - please read it at the link below and follow the instructions... Lost Radio Code - FAQ, PLEASE READ THIS FIRST Try 7162 or 7160
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