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jchapura

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Everything posted by jchapura

  1. jchapura
    I've got the three chain tensioners sitting on the shelf waiting to change with the oil in few weeks. From the bottom, the IMS (I think) tensioner is the easiest one - totally exposed for a socket. The other one accessible from the bottom is "fenced" by a couple of metal coolant tubes. Can the coolant tubes be temporarily moved out of the way by undoing their straps to gain sufficient access to the tensioner? Or, do the tubes have to come out by decoupling them from their in and out rubber hoses? (I'm trying to avoid cracking open the coolant system...) Does the cam have to be locked in TDC with a pin through the pulley hole? Is there still a chance that any of the three chains could jump a tooth while removing the existing tensioner or putting in the new one? I plan to complete each tensioner completely before moving to the next one (two tensioners will never be out at the same time). Any other tips or tricks? Thanks for any advice.
  2. jchapura
    About 14000 miles ago (~17 months) I replaced the seemingly original water pump with a Pierburg (remember to replace the 7 mounting bolts). I did change to a low temperature thermostat at the same time. (I bench tested the temperature-at-open values and temperature-at-full-open values because I found two seemingly defective ones.) After it was all buttoned-up, in hot weather, the incidents of oil temperature spiking increased. (Normal cruising 100F ambient, yielded 200F oil temp; spiking meant to me elevated RPMs 4k+ for just a dozen seconds or so, took me to 220F oil temp; and I would say the oil temp did not recover quickly or at all some times.) Since I was pretty sure I had a good thermostat, the only other thing I think it could be is coolant flow (meaning it was the same potentially dirty radiators before and after, for these observations). The Pierburg just didn't seem to flow the needed amount of water when the system needed it the most. [Later that summer, I did take off the front bumper cover to clean the condenser and radiators - no change in "spiking" incidences.] So, when I change it again (~40000 miles), I will probably be going with the genuine Porsche pump.
  3. jchapura
    Your 3.9 indicates a rebuild/upgrade perhaps and you may want to ask the builder. Viscosity is just one part of the oil equation. The additive package is very important. I use JGR DT40 in hot/moderate Texas, USA. It's recommended by one well known engine builder.
  4. jchapura
    I installed some Gundo hacked mufflers and love them. Looking back I should have just modified my stock mufflers.
  5. jchapura
    I too have a less-than-smooth 1-2 shift. Not very bad but noticeable compared to the other transitions. I have changed the oil and used PTX. I have Function First inserts for the tranny and semi-solid motor mounts. All the changes were done separately; none of them really benefited the 1-2 transition. What was the part number of the tool you ordered? Have you found a source for the adjustment procedure? Thank you for reporting back your results. I will too if I do the adjustment. Update: I found the part number [shift adjustment tool #SKU9X7 Suncoast] and I just saw a post on the replacement procedure and it looks like the adjustment threads are in the center console rather than the transmission end so I probably won't be taking all that apart for a relatively trivial issue (or unless your results are really fantastic).
  6. jchapura
    Could be. Could also be a pulley. Safely use a mechanic's stethoscope to try to narrow down where the squeak is coming from. If you don't have a stethoscope, I've used a long small diameter metal rod... Just be careful when the engine is running.
  7. jchapura
    I ordered an assembled 60 inch remote bleeder from Eric at BAT in Florida for about $50. I hope the M10 terminating fitting, that replaces the bleeder, fits.
  8. jchapura
    I found in post (http://rennlist.com/forums/porsche-cup-cars/771311-clutch-bleed-extension.html) that the 997 and 996 are different, 10mm and 6mm, respectively. I've written to BAT to see if they can put one together for me.
  9. jchapura
    Thanks Loren - I'm definitely going to follow that procedure. But instead of laying on my back to open and close the bleeder, I will open and close a bleeder, from my feet, with the new remote bleeder in the engine compartment. But what I want to do is to remove the stock bleeder on the clutch slave cylinder and replace it with an extension line to become a "remote bleeder". There don't seem to be any "on the shelf" for purchase so I'll spec one out and have it built. But I need the specs for the stock bleeder valve so I can tell the fabricator what part to start this extension line with. Basically, the extension line will be a male part that screws into the cylinder. That male part will be crimped to about 5 feet of stainless braided brake line and then crimp-terminate to bleeder valve. So, for that first male part, I need to know the "size" of the bleeder in the clutch slave for a 997.1. Thread pitch, tip configuration (to mate with slave seat configuration), diameter, length, etc.
  10. jchapura
    I'm interested in buying or having built a remote bleeder for the clutch slave cylinder on my 997.1 Does anyone happen to know the "size" of the bleeder in the clutch slave for a 997.1? Thread pitch, tip configuration (to mate with slave seat configuration), diameter, length, etc. It seems that that's the only Porsche specific part I'd need to know about (to be able to build-out the rest).
  11. jchapura
    My water pump went this past spring. Started out just as drips. Then over two weeks progressed to a puddle one Saturday morning. I think there's a consensus that they only last about 40k to 50k miles - some folks even changing them out preemptively. If it is coolant, don't leave drips/puddles out - it will kill or blind most animals and insects.
  12. jchapura
    That looks like coolant (pinkish but white crystals). Does it have a sweet smell? Kind of slippery? How many miles on the water pump?
  13. jchapura
    Thanks Rob - this sounds like an idea worth pursuing. Can you draw and take a close-up pic of the MB radiator temp switch tie-in to the fan electrical supply line(s)? I want to make sure I cut/tap into the correct lines. Is your car a 997.1? I may just substitute a SPST switch in the cabin (for the MB temp switch). Did you use a diode to keep the current flowing in only one direction?
  14. jchapura
    Maybe this isn't the dealer to ask but...what is this Porsche phenom where a dead battery can do harm (beyond needing a jump)? Hopefully I'll get a little warning when mine's about to go...has anyone used those 9v battery temp hookups through the cigarette lighter to try to keep the electronics alive while the battery is disconnected just awaiting the new battery to be hooked up (the disconnection time around 5-10 minutes)?
  15. jchapura
    I'm a little leery too. That seems like a lot of water to see no other symptoms (like the white gooey stuff on the oil cap; or to be seen in the oil filter/cannister at oil change time). Couple that with your state-side driving habit and it really makes it hard to believe (your "at temp time" seem like enough to me). It's probably not all emulsified but being entrained by agitation - separating out quickly when left to stand - probably not a good thing if it's in oiling passageway. I've owned a lot of cars over the years in Texas and upstate NY (think cold in the winter time) and I do not recall ever even thinking about the build up of condensation or blow by water (a byproduct of combustion) in the crankcase. What's the deal with the M9X that it seems to be a water magnet - even to the point of it being called out in the owner's manual - even to the point of influencing the oil level - never seen that before. I guess others have experienced so I've got to get on board with preventing it but sure would like to know even one other make where the issue is as "explicit" as the Porsche M9X. BTW, are your tailpipes even a little bit black beyond "normal"?
  16. jchapura
    In trying to explore the water burn off theory, can you tell us more about your typical trips? Time on the road, time on the road when oil temp was above 200 deg F, trips per week, average ambient temp, etc. 0.5 liter of water seems like a lot if you have a non-trivial commute that should be burning it off.
  17. jchapura
    Howdy floatingkiwi, is it possible you're mixing up the engine bay purge fan operation with my need for information about the coolant/radiator/evaporator fan control? I'm needing info or a technique to be able to manually turn on the fan with a switch.
  18. jchapura
    Thanks jl-c. That's a great idea. Here's a different possible approach. How could I fake out the controller to think that the coolant temperature is "too high"? Could I not feed that voltage (or signal? or resistance?) into the controller and then the fans would run on high? Does anyone have some specifics on the voltage and controller terminal for the coolant temp sensor?
  19. jchapura
    Thanks RFM. Since PWM is meant to (electrically) safely give the device effectively "less" voltage, or more precisely, less "time" at the nominal voltage, to get the fan the run "wide open", one could just supply it with straight/unmodulated nominal voltage - does that seem right? To do this, I could tap into the 12v that's supplying (because it's got the proper current carrying capacity) (in other words, on the input side of the controller) the controller, and add my dash switch in between this tap-in point and the termination at the fan. This effectively gives the fan 12v 100% of the time, whereas the normal circuit gives it 12v between 0% and 100% of the time depending on what the controller is commanding it to do.
  20. jchapura
    I'm trying to understand the outputs of the 997.1 cooling fan control unit. I understand that the fans are a continuously variable type and run in proportion to the cooling water temperature. How is the fan speed adjusted? For example, is the voltage adjusted by the control unit? Maybe 0v to get 0 RPM, to 12v to get max RPM. Or, PWM? I'm interested in using this info to add a manual override to be able to run the fan at max speed by a dash switch (but maybe needing some "smarts" if PWM is involved).
  21. jchapura
    Actually, I want to be surprised (that might explain why even a little bit of spirited driving seemingly spikes the oil temperature, especially during warmer ambient temps). :) Mine look less dirty on the outside compared to your pic but I'm worried what will be trapped between the condenser and radiator. BTW, do you know what (sensor) criteria is used for the computer to turn on the engine compartment exhaust fan? Is it as simple as an ambient temperature greater than 80 deg F? I noticed today when I came to the car after work - I park in an underground parking garage - the dash temp was reading 81 and the exhaust fan immediately started up when the I started the car.
  22. jchapura
    I'm not sure about their cleanliness. I suspect they are dirty because of the much better temperature control when the ambient temperature is cooler (and less air flow is needed because of the delta T). I hope to clean them this weekend and avoid any mods.
  23. jchapura
    Is there a way to fake the system? Pre-heat it, or more precisely, supplement heat it, perhaps? Or change out the sender/sensor? Where is the temp sensor that it reads for the control temperature? Maybe a resistor or active component could be added to the sensors lead, depending on the type of signal (if it's PID, for example)? Or maybe, I could just put add my own manual/toggle switch and power feed? How hard might that be? It seems that a low temperature thermostat couldn't be fully taken advantage of, in stop-and-go traffic, in hot ambient conditions, because the air may only be flowing when the system hits the factory-set temp of 200, 205 or something like that...
  24. jchapura
    I'd like to turn on the radiator fans at about a temperature that's 10 degrees cooler than what they currently turn on at. Is there a way to do that? Different temp switch? Reprogramming one of the computers? If reprogramming, can the Durametric Enthusiast do the job or is the Pro needed? Or some other available tool?
  25. jchapura
    This past weekend I changed out the new thermostat that was giving me even warmer oil temperatures than the original regular temp thermostat. The new low temperature thermostat acted like I expected to. It gave me oil temps about 8 deg F cooler than the original regular temp tstat. The first low temperature thermostat must have been a dud. Attached is an image of the old and new tstat coolant temp graphs clearly showing the approximate 20 degree difference in the temperature at the plateau (after warmup). I did boil all the tstats - they did open pretty close to what I read should be expected. I'm happy it's resolved. I hated to have to spend another half-day to change it out again. I'm hoping it does its job to protect the engine just that little bit more. Thanks everyone for chiming in.
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