jchapura

My ambient was about 65 deg F for yesterday's run. Here's this morning's chart (60 deg F ambient; same route; but one longer episode of stop-n-go traffic) with car speed (to suggest that there is sufficient radiator air flow). I'm not convinced the tstat is the low temp variety or not defective. Of course, i'm trying to avoid cracking open the coolant system again to replace it - hence my dilemma. But I will because I want the added engine protection of the lower tstat set point. Is there a "poor man's" way to check the density of my coolant mix? Hydrometer's are not that expensive but was wondering it there's way to compare perfectly mixed brand new 50/50 with a sample from the car...

Does this coolant heat up chart look like it's from a car with a low temperature thermostat?

Thanks JFP. I wish I had known about the "pre-mix" rule. Mea culpa. When you say "much longer", how many operational minutes or hours are we talking about? Tell me though, what might explain the change in relatively steady state oil temperature of 205 (pre) to 215 (post)? I definitely have heard of the radiators getting "trashed in" but mine are the same trashiness (from before the new pump and tstat, and after)?

I will look up how to "burp" with Porsche system - not really sure what that entails. (Was really hoping that the Airlift would have eliminated this burping step. Oh well.) According to the source of the Audi G12 I bought, they are compatible and essentially the same chemically, just different colors.

2005 C2S ~52k miles For the record, for multiple months prior to these maintenance procedures, I noted an oil temperature of about 205 deg F, whether the ambient temperature was warm or cold. I could get the temp to go up by keeping the RPMs above 3000 for an extended time. Most of the time the needle just stayed pretty steady at 205. The one day, saw leaking coolant from underneath the water pump. Decided to change the water pump and thermostat myself. I also changed some of the hoses that touch other about-to-be-changed-out parts. I changed the reservoir cap. The new thermostat was labelled as "71" and marked Motorad. I have no history of whether any prior coolant system work had been done by others. When initially draining the coolant, I used the AirLift three additional times to pull fluid to the back end of the car to get a more empty system. Then I did the parts change out. Put everything back together. The system held its vacuum for at least five minutes. I then refilled with straight distilled water, intending to "flush" out the old, yellow-ish coolant since my new coolant was Audi G12 anti-gel "red". I took it for a 15 minute spin to mix up, and heat up, everything. I drained the diluted coolant three time with AirLifts in between. It held vacuum again. Proceeded to add 3.3 gallons of straight G12 since that's what I calculated I needed (for appropriately 50/50 against a total capacity of 8.6 gallons). Finished/topped off with distilled water. To try to get any potentially trapped air pockets out, I turned the heater on HI and fan on high. I'm now getting about 212-215 oil temperature and the needle seems to move (up and down) more often compared to the pre-change state. I was really hoping for a reduction in oil temperature after the change-out because of the low temperature thermostat. What might explain why the "reduction" seems to have gone the other way? Thanks for any insights you might provide. PS: The bright side - there's no more leaking coolant. [Although I didn't hear much noise from the old water pump - when I had it on the bench I could tell the bearing was shot.]

My two cents probably aren't worth two cents but I think this might be just coincidence. Or, a very subtle cause and effect. It sounds like the pressure plate is no good. Would love to have you report back when you do learn the cause. For what it's worth, I did this same fluid changeout a few months ago on my garage floor and did not experience what you have. I can understand your frustration.

I did the mod. I decided to light-up both lights. Here's the mark-up for the mod. The wing brake light harness is readily exposed in the engine bay (a cut and tie-in are there). The main engine lid harness is on the passenger side near the lid hinge and was easily exposed more for its cuts and tie-ins. So, I did not have to demount the wing to access anything in the area into which the old spoiler retracted. I haven't figured out how to embed an image here so here's link to another forum with marked-up wiring diagram: http://rennlist.com/forums/997-forum/918989-need-help-with-spoiler-harness-wiring-diagram-for-third-brake-light.html#post13031713

Thank you very much. This should do the trick to design the mod.

The cost and the likelihood I'll still need to have the car recoded by piwis. I've already spent too much on this wing. The wing's design allows the lifts to go up and down to no effect so I'm not worried about deleting that function. I just want to enable using the third brake light. Another option I have is just to press the spoiler up button on the console. But that's a bit of a pain to remember. I was hoping to learn I could just cut one wire and short-out two others.

I need a wiring diagram and physical locations for connectors for the wire harness associated with the rear spoiler lift mechanism. I want to "fake out" the electronics such that the computer (really the rear spoiler's third brake light) to think that the spoiler is always in the raised position. It's my understanding that there is a upper limit switch on the lift mechanism and a lower limit switch. If the upper spoiler position is "tripped" then the spoiler's third brake light is energized. If the spoiler is parked (or in the lower position) then the fixed back windshield third brake is energized. Presumably, by opening or shorting some wires, I can mimic the natural positions of the spoiler, and get the effect I want. I could also accept having both third brake lights energized - if someone has a technique for that. Why? Because I've replaced the original spoiler with a fixed wing, and transferred the spoiler's third brake light to the wing. Would someone be able to post a wiring diagram of the harness wires I'd need to test and modify? I'd like to do the wire modifications near a connector, probably near the non-spoiler end of the harness - would you be able to suggest where the spoilers lifting mechanism harness terminates in the body or engine compartment? A picture would be great.

I installed a Tranzlt BLU in my 2005 C2S that has the Nav system and PCM 2.1. This picture is just how my car was (the picture is from ilko on Rennlist - thank you ilko). http://rennlist.com/forums/997-turbo-forum/808080-tranzit-blu-hf-install-in-a-997-1tt-pcm-2-1-a.html

Thanks Hilux2400. I did swap ends on the long mounting bolts you described. Did you make a spanner wrench for that (I think) 13 mm bolt? If I remember right it was very tight on the backside of that bracket. But maybe I have a cheapie spanner wrench from my bicycle maintenance (cone nuts and locking nuts).

I swapped out my 997 C2S mufflers for Gundo-hacked mufflers but in doing so I broke off one stud of three that's on the exhaust bracket (just too corroded I guess). I buttoned everything back up because I didn't have another bracket but was wondering if I should preemptively order a new bracket before something worse happens. The bracket part number is 996.111.238.03. I'll certainly listen for squeaks and vibrations...

I can confirm this is an easy driveway job. 20 minutes. I have a 2005 C2S MT. Symptoms - oil pressure above zero when engine not running, many times the pressure pegged at 5 bar (cold, hot, high rpm, low rpm). Firstly, just tried reseatting the two (spade) connectors (can't mix them - they're two different widths) - it's just stick your arm in there on a non-hot engine. No joy on the gage though. Bought $70 part off Amazon (996 606 203 02); comes with aluminum sealer/washer. [it definitely looked like a Porsche part when I inspected it.] Tools: 3/8 drive 19 mm crowfoot wrench, 6 inch 3/8 extension, 3/8-1/2 drive adapter, 1/2 inch ratchet, trouble light If a lot of debris around the area, clean it out now. Remove electrical connections to sender. From the "top" (engine bay), reach and fit the extended crowfoot to the sender at a good position to break it loose. Fit the ratchet to the extension; break the sender loose. Use hand to completely unscrew it. Hand thread in the new one until the sender/washer seats. Re-fit the crowfoot. Use good judgment about how much to torque. Not really too much owing to the aluminum washer/design. Re-fit electrical connections. Fired electrics with key - pressure gage at zero. Started vehicle - pressure to 5 bar (typical for cold behavior). Turned off; fired electrics - pressure at zero. Stuck my arm into the engine bay to see if I could feel any wetness/oil - none. [And here's a link to the very similar 996 DIY. http://rennlist.com/forums/996-forum/505634-oil-pressure-sender-unit-replacement-diy.html ]