lewisweller

Short answer is probably not zero boost but definitely much reduced. If the MAP sensor is disconnected or not working at all this will give you Absolutely no boost. Smoke test the intake by removing the map sensor on top of the intake Y pipe and smoke test it. Some home made smoker ideas are on YouTube. You have to disconnect the air box pipes and bag them closed to hold the smoke inside the intake areas which would normally be under boost. Check your Diverter valves as well and vacuum pipes to them are air tight if you blow. I posted my DV and pipe fix on here. Search my posts. Good luck

With multiple and possibly miss leading error codes it important to try not to follow every avenue as they may be red herrings. I would start with the cylinder 3 misfire, this to me is lean misfire at manifold vacuum situation, ie the manhole runner, gasket or connection to that cylinder port is leaking and drawing in extra air, this would also explain hot and cold weird conditions cos of expansion and contraction of the leak area. Also possible is injector seal for the same cylinder. Get the engine running from dead cold and on rough idle situation, get a spray bottle with a fine mist nozzle and start spraying water around cylinder 3 manifold runner and gasket to head and injector, if you hear the engine idle change, bingo the water sealed the leak briefly. At high rpm the vacuum is nil so a leak wouldn't show as much but would affect fuel trims possibly.

Ok so I went back to basics after not seeing anything stand out in the data from the vcds. I unplugged both maf sensors and notice a change in behaviour rpm hunting around idle, idle stabilisation stumbling and revving lumpy. Ruling that out moved onto the map sensor which I clean already and made no difference, disconnected and no surprise you don't get any boost at all, but still misfires at certain rpm. Reconnected map sensor and then disconnected the cycle valve aka N75 soleniod valve bingo misfire and stutter gone, revs freely and clean except the boost is limp mode 0.4 bar as wastgate spring is only in control and no vacuum assistance to increase to 0.8 bar to hold the boost as per the dme signal to the n75 valve. Ive ordered a new one after checking the pipe work is all in good condition. What really stumped me on this was the stutter misfire even when sat revving in Park. Anyone got some more in depth explanation about the activation of the n75 valve during off load conditions ie free revving when stationary? So weird to get a misfire at 1100 2100 3100 rpm etc from this pesky n75 solenoid valve intervention. For those who are still trying to figure out a misfire or hesitation without dtc codes then try this list: 1. Check Coils for cracks and sparks plugs for wear, correct gap and Visual condition. 2. Check for vacuum leaks, I found a total of three separate leaks, broken pipes etc 3. Check both Diverter valves diaphragm is not split. One of mine was split I changed both anyway, bosch 710 P revision. 4. Check Throttle body is clean, replace gasket and do alignment, look at the intake Y pipe bottom push fit vacuum pipe connector squirt a little water on it and listen for a engine flutter and also check for hissing around oil/air separator. 5. Pull dip stick out at idle you should hear a quiet sucking noise and slight idle difference, open the oil cap and it should suck hard to pull the cap back down, if not maybe your vacuum is leaking somewhere else. 6. Smoke test your intake by removing the map sensor one screw and disconnecting the air boxes piping and blocking it off with a thick clear plastic bag and cello tape. 7. Rinse Clean your maf and map sensors with pure alcohol do not scrub or rub them, air dry the alcohol off and repeat rinse. Don't soak the electrical ends. 8. Compression check/ leak down test on all cylinders could be in order if you suspect an issue. 9. Burnt or chipped exhaust valve is a possibility, not closing properly. 10. Battery faults and DME issues can cause weird problems but not the most likely if start up cranking speed isn't an issue. 11. O2 sensor faults will not be present during cold start running so if first few minute is good then once warm it start to misbehave then maybe o2 sensor closed loop malfunction. This can also be a sensor getting hot and malfunctioning. 12. Fuel injector blockages and dripping. Use techron a few times to clean injector pintle, if dripping then start up is harder normally, especially hot starts. 13. Fuel pump/ filter or regulator will normally show at higher rpm and hard to start There are loads more possibilities and a lot more knowledgeable people on this forum than me can offer their experience. But I hope this helps out someone trouble shooting in the future as without codes it can be very frustrating and costly to fix.

Good find

If he's got 90k on original plugs and Coils wouldn't it be prudent even if he didn't have a engine issue to replace these? With Coils the latest revision is 21 that started at 00 says something about the reliability factor. Plus $ 400 don't get you very far at the stealer or indy these days, so if your handy with a wrench and it preventative maintenance too win win as far as I'm concerned. Only my two pennies worth, Good luck.

The idle will fluctuate alittle when the brake vacuum pump (the silver colour metal unit located behind the right bank air cleaner box) is activated because it's an electrical load. I think the test for the servo leak is to switch off ignition and pump pedal it should go hard after 3-5 pumps, then start engine with foot on pedal and feel it drop as the pump increases servo vacuum again. If the pedal drops but won't stop ie it get buried in the floor then their is an issue. There are some post here about the piping from the vacuum pump being split and warning messages popping up. See below was a good one.

Hello I'm using the vcds on the cayenne but having difficulty identifying the measuring block group number as I don't get a description as no label file for cayenne, do you have a label file or do you know the important group numbers ie 002 is AC compressor status and the maf sensor is easy but the other are difficult and so many "knock" and "count" have no idea what they are showing value of. The Ross tech list of gasoline vehicle groups don't really relate to the cayenne at all. Any help please and do you know about coding the comfort module or got any other tips or websites maybe to share? Much Appreciated

I checked today the short fuel trims are Ok all between +-10% I view on odb11 basic function but for some reason the long fuel trims stayed at 0.0% always even when I pulled the dip stick to introduce a vac leak not any change. The short terms did as expected and rose and then slowly came back down. I also looked at the ignition timing at idle was between 1.5 and 5 degrees body, idle stabilisation cam timing was -1kw but I also had a -16.5kw which I think is continous cam timing adjustment? With out the label file to show the description of readings I'm struggling with this. Pls anybody used vagcom on cayenne or even touareg maybe that can post the measuring block group numbers and descriptions? Side note the misfire vibration when revving is exactly 1200rpm 2200rpm and 3200rpm. What are the chances? This must be something sequential but I have no idea what could cause that??

Can you post some pictures of these pipes and maybe some part numbers please. This is one area on the back I haven't searched although one pipe was found broken when they did the engine out head gaskets. Someone had also glued that tighter badly before it seems. I bought new from Porsche.

Ok so I got my vcds and plug in to the ctt, works a treat on single module or auto detect use "touareq" it found every module I needed. Bad news is no fault codes in the engine or transmission. Only Dtc is 00907 for some power intervention fault, which must have sometime to do with the rear tail light warning which pops if battery voltage is down to 13.2v approx ie the AC fan is on high. Maybe the alternator is weak now as the battery is brand new. After leaving it a month it started right up in 40oC heat so can't be too bad? The problem is the vcds doesn't have label files for the cayenne modules so I have to guess or educate myself better on the data I see and work out what I'm viewing in the measuring block groups. Can anyone give a list of group numbers for the cayenne for what they show, (the usual roos tech listed ones don't match the cayenne exactly I checked) main stuff is lambda, full trim, misfire count, I understand most of them but it's the fact that so many groups show the same or similar % figures and it get confusing which is actually what I want to review. Using on my audi was easy cos Advanced measuring blocks are available and all descriptions are there. Appreciate some technical help I got to find this misfire problem. Throwing this out there could the feel of misfire at stationary revving specific rpm and whilst driving the same rpms be engine mounting, transmission, flywheel, torque converter or anything else weird like that? Thinking outside the box here but it definitely reduced performance which is why I ruled all these things out already.

If the rear is stuck low then it would possible increase camber enough to scrub the inner tyre, also possible is worn bushings or badly out of spec alignment? Measure from centre of wheel hub to wheel arc top centre on each corner. This will straight away tell you where it is sat now and how far out or calibration it's gotten. Note if you jack or lift the vehicle the air strut does hyper extend and after dropping back down it will either adjust itself or you will need to hit the selector switch so it sorts itself out. I'm confused now by the posts if your pump runs at all right now? If the controls are not illuminating then must be a power failure. Check fuses as Bigbuzuki said must be something amiss.

Retro fitting and adapting the struts with a new system sounds like more work than fixing this relatively small issue. How you will fit everything and effectively delete the old system and stop it throwing warnings all the time Im not sure. For me fix the issue and enjoy.

Hello, I've also got a 2006 and once had the same warning on dash. It was because I was playing with ride heights and depleted the reservoir of pressurised air in the tank before it could pump more in. Now I never get any fault in normal operation except the sagging front end after parking for a while which quickly pumps up when you return to the vehicle. So my prognosis is the possible piston for the pump may be a little worn and height adjustment is not being done as per the time spec and or the calibration for the ride height isn't correct possibly due to another fault like height sensor, hence rear is sagging. If you had a scan fault code for guidance that would be good and software to calibrate it may be all that was needed. Piston and Oring kit for the pump is chump change from bmwvanos. Good luck.

Thanks guys for replying. First 3 plugs are bank 1, so bank 2 is maybe the issue here. VCDS when it arrives will hopefully reveal more info on misfire and fuel trims out of wack maybe. I'm hoping not timing issue as this lead to starched chains and a whole load of money. Side note I've had this car on Durametric and PIWIS before head gasket was diagnosed and didn't reveal anything except SAI fault which is because they are both funked, but regardless in middle east they never run any way). Reference vacuum leaks I think with all the bits I replaced and checking done, there may not be any leaks remaining. When pulling the dipstick you can hear now a distinct change in sound and airflow, and if removing the oil cap a bigger change and vacuum pressure sucking the cap back down with both respective O'ring sealing instantaneously when touched back into situ. Maybe I ruled out fuel pressure/delivery too quickly as higher rpm the rev is cleaner to redline. Ill post back some tangible data asap. Thanks again Guys.

Anyone have some plug reading experience to share please? It seems without codes it very hard to help people out I know. I see a few other ctt owners are having similar issue but they get idle problems which I don't strangely, although I'm happy I don't as idle issues tend to lead to costly major repairs. Appreciations in advance

Have you got any pictures? I would expect you have two separate issues firstly Coolant pipe under manifold or the plastic T pipe on the rear area leaking which you notice now by discovering the oil leak where the sump guard cover screw punctured through your sump probably by an impact or rubbing I guess is possible but more unlikely. Either way a pita. I would swap out the sump and have a good clean up to see if Coolant is leaking and from where. If top Coolant pipes they can cause starter motor problems to be wary of.

What symptoms did you have with this fault code? How did engine performance vary?

Understood thank you for replying. So when I got a bit less hair and a few more bucks to buy 911 turbo weekender I should definitely spring for a durametric as well. :) I don't suppose anybody has any experience of coding a voltage sensitive comfort module that seemingly likes to pop dash warnings for rear tail light fault, no horn beep when locking/unlocking and recently doesn't want to let me refuel either.

I'm glad you confirmed my logic. I've even got a V-checker PRO and that pulls codes and shows measuring blocks data and erases codes so as this is based on a very crude Vag com setup I was fairly confident vcds would work a lot better. I'm still puzzled why durametric is viewed as the only tool for the enthusiast.

Have read of this post as well same fault code, he changes the Cam Sensor not the Actuator Solenoid at the front of valve cover. (Im not advocating throwing parts at it mind). http://www.renntech.org/forums/topic/43777-cam-sensor-p0011-replacement/ Also other posts mention having timing chain issues :( When was you oil changed last? I would do a Mobile 1 Oil flush and new oil and filter, clear codes and run to see what happens. Dirty oil can cause these fault codes and it the easiest thing to do and regular maintenance anyway, double win if it fixes it. Good luck. What are your running issues if any?

I just ordered version 15.7 of VAGCOM original VCDS ross-tech software (not a china rip off cable). Im going to use mainly for my 2013 Audi A4 3.0t and also some limited diagnostics on the Cayenne as the 2003-2006 share a lot of modules with the Toureq. Has anyone had any experience good or bad from using VCDS on their Cayenne? Some mixed posts on other sites bashing VCDS and some scare mongering too (like it will kill your "VW part number" module! somehow I don't think so), but also a few posts about it being more capable than Durametric in some cayenne modes (he had a Turbo S 2006), so im hoping my cayenne turbo 2006 with E81 power kit will also be compliant with the VCDS to an extent. Once the VCDS comes first thing is to find this pesky stutter hesitation issue I have still. I'll report back some logs and data .................... unless it fries my module then I'll close the post quietly :)

Well guys and gals im still at it. Last few days the car ran as normal stutter, today this morning it ran very smooth, typical! I already made a plan and went ahead today to pull the plugs and coils (both new 2k ago OEM Beru coils revision 21 and Beru 14F-6DRUP021 OEM from Porsche) to check for coil cracks and correct plug gapping using 0.8mm as specified, all in the hope to find something or read the plugs to shine a light on the stutter surge hesitation issues. see attached the plugs 2-8 (forgot to snap plug 1 but was exactly like plug 2) To me the plugs look good, black full turn around top thread is good A/F mix, the centre electrode is white/grey as normal, only thing I would say is the ground strap is not showing very obvious signs of timing either advanced or retarded. it look very uniform colour on most and the faintess change on a couple. some website say no colour sign on the strap means plug is too cold, being in the middle east im very reluctant to put a hotter plug in! Plug 3 had a small browning around the ceramic insulator above the nut more than others did but again not a real issue. Any spark plug reading experts please do jump in and give your 2 pennies worth. :) Also note one Picture of the connector of the Actuator Solenoid oring leaking a bit, anyone think this is real issue? Im thinking no, it doesn't drip or run, no fault codes at all!!!

Key to getting the last few litres in the system is to be in neutral with engine running. I found this out and 7 litres was the approx amount to refil for me. First attempt was only 4-5 litre, after some gear selecting and back to neutral, leaving it there allowed more fluid in.

Can't believe it, after two days of perfection the problem is back. I test the vacuum pipe and DV's for leak and none found. There must be something leaking somewhere again I need to find. I really thought I had this cracked once and for all. What this space, I won't be beaten.!

Hi and welcome to the ctt club for poor running and hesitation stutter. I have just completed one fix for my issues which are similar but not the same as your problem. I think your correct and if 90k on same plugs and Coils definitely do them both regardless of cel codes. Then check back here with the results. Some cracks in the Coils and worn out spark plug electrodes is a good sign of the cause of the issue. My issues have all revolved around lean misfires from vacuum leaks and Divertor valve diaphragm split. I just fixed the last piece of the puzzle the Divertor valve and drive smooth as silk for two days and just yesterday it back to stuttering and stammering hesitation like before, omg I nearly torched the thing. So there must be a vacuum hose or pipe somewhere leaking again! Idle is perfect, wot pass 4k rpm is very smooth and powerful but part Throttle at around 2k 3k is jelly and a lean misfire for sure. Knowing it can run well keeps me motivated to keep at it regardless of the set back. Good luck. And please post back, some people fix and never update and close their post.