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lewisweller

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Everything posted by lewisweller

  1. Short circuit of wiring to pump or the pump internally is shorted and needs to be replaced. I suppose a bad connection could also blow the fuse but a wiring short or pump integral short is much more likely.
  2. Easy test is to clamp the pipe from the evap purge valve that goes to the intake via a T fitting underneath the intake Y pipe. That will instantly identify the evap purge is faulty. The code should be p0441 I think if you scan the car.
  3. Seems like something common to this bank, so my thinking is knock sensor bank 2 or wiring like the earth or signal of the coils loom on bank 2. You can easily probe the coils from the rear and check for +12v and earth. There is four pins but I haven't got the pin info to hand. One is a feed back to the Ecu on how the coil is performing. I also don't think it is cam related and the maf is not used for idle so if misfires are at idle as well forget the maf sensors for now.
  4. Hot weather misfire always leads me to ignition or sensor. Have you ever whipped out the crankshaft position sensor and had a look, measure the resistance and also check how strong the magnet is? Very easy to get to don't even need to remove any covers, just put suspension into highest mode and slide under the passenger side just rear of the front tyre. It's right there on the bell housing. Other ideas is electrical connection getting warm and resistance increases, look in the wet fuse box under the relays and fuses at the cables and connectors also the dme. Then think about the en
  5. The pig is sold but to answer your question I was indeed running Bkr7eix and it made absolutely no difference to the original plugs to be honest and if your not in a very hot climate I doubt the cooler plug will benefit you much either it may get more sooty if you don't do a lot of highway miles. Unless your modified boost wise that is? Bare in mind even a mild boost increase probably won't show any real issues on a healthy engine. The turbo S vs the turbo still used the same plug I'm pretty sure. I'm running cooler copper plugs in my stage 2 Audi 3.0t and having
  6. I can't say for sure what the result would be from a signal that may be faulty but my educated guess would be it wouldn't make the dme fudged and need complete replacement! Could be doing the garage a disservice here but swapping in the old dme takes just 3 mins and hook up the battery again, then you'll know for sure if you just got sold a new dme for no good reason. Thinking back I did run my ctt 06 with one maf disconnected. It will start and will run. The idle would rise ok and then fall slower I remember, idle was alittle high with maf disconnected.
  7. Sounds like this issue only presented itself after the fuel pump was replaced? Open and replace both Rubber gaskets (labelled as seals number 8 on the diagram) on the left and right side filter and regulator respectively, would be my first and most inexpensive thing to try if DIY and no other ideas. The rubbers are very tricky to refit even when new but a helper will make it easier to get it seated properly and not leak. Also the vent pipes to the tank fittings can get damaged by some enthusiastic mechanic work, so consider that as well.
  8. Sounds like bull**** to me. You just got a new dme for nothing quite possibly. Misdiagnosis and most garages won't fess up. Is the bad maf sending an erroronous signal?? Maf isn't required to start car or idle. Unplugged it should start and idle. Get only Bosch original MAF. Others aftermarket are problematic from experience. The Bosch isn't all that expensive either. Buy online or from Bosch distributor.
  9. Remove and send to specialist for repairs. 400dollars approx. Reprogramming may not be required after repair but you'll have to ask them. https://www.bosch-repair-service.com/UK_en/Engine_Control_Unit-ME7_1_1-0261207696-Porsche I removed mine to check inside for dry joints and failed components, don't be afraid to have a look inside it took me 30 mins. Replacement and programming will be bloody expensive. What you got to loose by exploring other fixes first. ?
  10. Vapor lock is quite unlikely IMHO. More likely is the venturi jet pick up on the right hand side of the tank, a small pipe of pressurised fuel feed from the primary pump which sucks up a larger quantity of fuel from the right side of the tank and passes that fuel back over to the left side "primary" pump Container is actually sucking some air as you climb up steep continuous hills. The jet venturi is forward of the tank hence fuel would be sloshing away from the jet pickup, fuel will move towards the rear of the tank in a hill climbing circumstance. The primary pump deliver
  11. Nice info Brett. If it helps the guy with 2 dry solder joints on his DME actually was instructed to replace it at cost 3,000 dollars, he opted for a repair instead. The specialist repairer said they doubted the dry joints was the whole issue. His mechanic then found a partially broken wire between the dme and the pump (sorry no more detail given which wire). Concluding that most likely the wire was the real fault, the dry joints where coincidental and maybe not causing the issue.
  12. Did some reading, 1. Most causes is fuel pump, namely the left primary pump for obvious reasons. 2. Wiring rubbing on chassis and caused the cut out. Bad earth also one person reported. 3. DME dry solder joints, sent to specialist and they found two dry joints. 4. Hidden under wet fuse box an Aftermarket immobiliser fitted was causing cut out after 10 seconds. Can't find any other examples......
  13. 06 is optional battery in boot and most do not have one. That said the boot battery is only for stating the engine and I'm struggling to hypothesise how that would chase this issue. As a sanity check can you do one thing, pull out fuse number 14 and start the car. What happens? You mentioned pulling out fuel pump relay but was it the right one? Fuse 14 is the left side primary pump, when you start the car it runs both pumps for about 5-10 seconds then if fuel level is above say 1/4 tank it only runs the primary. So this is consistent with your symptoms. If the car
  14. I think I am mistaken, the air spring part (not the whole strut assembly) is sold as a unit, I've looked to see if any rebuild or repair kit for it is available but I don't find anything. The oring you see in the diagram isn't holding any air seal I don't think. Also this is for the newer cayenne and slightly different assembly.
  15. 907 DTC is a red herring I seriously doubt it bares any relevance to this engine cutting out issue. It may be an early battery or frequent short journey warning issue. For me I would check: 1. Battery voltage with engine off, less than 12.4 volts is not ideal. Engine running 13.7-14vokts is perfect. Unlikely cause but best to check anyway first. 2. Bad fuel possible? Silicon, water, containment in the tankers is not unheard of. 3. The fuel filter is blocked? You will see adequate pressure but the flow test will reveal the flow is not correct, 800ml in 15 seconds is th
  16. Your absolutely right Thomas. Vacuum bleeding is always the preferred method if available.
  17. Had exactly the same thing. I could not find any leaks either. My guess is the actual leak is either inside the valve controller solenoid unit itself or the strut oring seals top or bottom is leaking. Mine was the passenger side front which went down completely overnight. The drivers side front also went down but only a little bit. The cost to replace orings is cheap but labour time is maybe 4 hrs. It maybe the solenoid controller internally cost of that I don't know.
  18. thor The system will self bleed. You need to keep the fluid level at max and close the cap. Go for a drive and leave the AC MAX HEAT on to help prevent any over heating and circulate coolant all through the system and get air out. Just in case you do have a fault, keep a close eye on the gauge. After the drive leave the car overnight to completely cool down to cold. In the morning check the fluid and top it up to max again. Repeat this process until the level is correct. This is now completely bled and no air is left. For your info and as Loren posted, the fan wi
  19. Oops. Good luck. I'm arm deep into a repair on the Audi, Sunday it decided to overheat and I've diagnosed a stuck closed thermostat, quite common on these I've read. The repair is involved, with the supercharger having to come off amongst other stuff. Was nearly there and then disaster struck broke a coolant pipe which has 5 connections to it. So now have to squeeze in the tight space and remove a whole load of crap to get the broken pipe out. And hope there is one in stock somewhere tomorrow or I'm screwed for a week if coming from Germany. Some good news, I'm striking a deal with
  20. The new German owner messaged me About the check tail light and the four wheel drive faulty message. I passed him the contact of a indy garage here that has PIWIS and german owner. I did reassure him the four wheel drive fault isn't mechanical or a safety issue. They should get along great, his wallet and their services . ......... My prediction of his repair if he goes ahead will be replace TC servo and control module, and new rear comfort control module with reprogramming. About 4,000dhs at least. He will get off lightly, I spent 30,000dhs easily on that car in 18months. Welc
  21. Steel ring wasn't in mine and I don't see what it is for either. I bet the new one didn't have it. As for the noises, yes having performance intake will let you hear the wastegates clearly. Thinking back to my mk4 golf 1.8 20v turbo which I modified moderately, Ecu, DV cold air intake, mounts, exhaust, whole suspension, brakes etc made a lovely whoooaaaa whosh on acceleration and lift off, with the lift off wastegate "chatter flutter" turning heads in the street .....ahh to be young and carefree. Lol So yeah I think you noises are not an issue. I don't understand the boost leve
  22. It's only a return air pipe, as the maf has already measured the air going in the system so it must stay in the system by way of returning back to pipe 14 and back into the driver side turbo inlet.
  23. Yes, it senses from the passenger bank 1 turbo only. There is no pipe to the drivers side turbo.
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