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rsfeller

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Everything posted by rsfeller

  1. rsfeller
    Any chance you are applying the e-brake and it's sticking until you get in forward motion? My rear calipers are getting in need of a rebuild and I think they tend to drag. Additionally, when the wife applies the hand brake I note that everything sticks if the car has not be driven in days.
  2. rsfeller
    ebay and other google searches will turn up used units for a 1/3 the price. Plus if you pay attention you will see the dismantlers (one in Oklahoma for sure) where you can contact them for items not on auction.
  3. rsfeller
    Although AC is not very difficult work if you have the gauges, a pump and the refrigerant it is best left to the professionals if you have no clue. As the condenser has been compromised there is very little damage you can do to the system. Although I don't know the procedure for the repair of the condenser but if chose to do it yourself (and know what you are doing with fittings) then you can save some money in the labor along with the filter/dryer, check with the website sponsor for the best pricing. Then take it all to a AC pro to evac the system and refill. 9 out of 10 times this is fine unless there has been a failure of the compressor, then you would want a flush. Luckily in the little hick town I work I can get a evan and refill for $90, most will be three times that. Take the shop the Bentley too so they can find the ports! Shawn
  4. rsfeller
    I'm just curious and concerned if "the heat" is actually fixed then since it was an important failure point in the post. Since it's warm out I"m curious if you are getting heat, warm or just not sure.
  5. rsfeller
    But what was the cause of lack of heat, nothing in your details explains that!
  6. rsfeller
    If a noise is coming from the pulley and belt areas of the car and is not fixed by a belt (which they seldom are) then you have a bearing failure in one of the idler pulleys. I have not seen much discussion on here about those failurs. This could include the water pump too.
  7. rsfeller
    I figured as much, it sounded like a squirrelly comment!
  8. rsfeller
    You make a good point and I should clarify my earlier post. High octane will not improve gas mileage for a car that is designed to run on 87 but if you care is designed to run on 93 then running 93 in it will give you better preformance and mileage then 87, it's a fact I've read 101 times. Not sure I agree on the seller of gas since most run through a handful of the same processing plants in the US anyways, but others claim they notice. One thing I do know is that a majority of the gas companies buy from difference sources based on the economy of the supply and demand and who has the gas when they need it at good prices. A couple good sources: http://www.wanderings.net/notebook/Main/Is...worth-the-money http://www.ftc.gov/bcp/edu/pubs/consumer/autos/aut12.shtm I think everyone here will tell the poster that there is no GOOD reason to run low octane in a Porsche when it is recommended for 93, again to save $50-100 a year. It's more a mental thing at the pump having to buy $4.20 a gallon premium. WHile the bulk base gasoline in the pipeline is usually the same, it is the additive packages that are added to the tanker trunks at fill up that make the difference..plus the Tier 1 suppossedly has higher filtration requirements. Since 2002 & later (996, not sure of 986/987) has no fuel filter, I'm not taking any chances!!! 986 do, seriously in this day and age they have a reason not to have a filter? What would be the disadvantage?
  9. rsfeller
    You make a good point and I should clarify my earlier post. High octane will not improve gas mileage for a car that is designed to run on 87 but if you care is designed to run on 93 then running 93 in it will give you better preformance and mileage then 87, it's a fact I've read 101 times. Not sure I agree on the seller of gas since most run through a handful of the same processing plants in the US anyways, but others claim they notice. One thing I do know is that a majority of the gas companies buy from difference sources based on the economy of the supply and demand and who has the gas when they need it at good prices. A couple good sources: http://www.wanderings.net/notebook/Main/Is...worth-the-money http://www.ftc.gov/bcp/edu/pubs/consumer/autos/aut12.shtm I think everyone here will tell the poster that there is no GOOD reason to run low octane in a Porsche when it is recommended for 93, again to save $50-100 a year. It's more a mental thing at the pump having to buy $4.20 a gallon premium.
  10. rsfeller
    Yea people with sports cars and boats should be overly concerned with gas cost from low to high...other wise you got the wrong toy. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Octane_rating Running lower octane will not hurt anything since most modern cars can adjust the timing to compensate for any "ping" but at the same time you may not always be hearing it. You can notice a slight drop in performance by using low grade but under no means does putting higher octane is a car that requires low octane improve performance, that is a myth. I guess the thing everyone is going to tell you is quit being cheap and taking the small chance of premature wear on your engine just to save $50-100 a year. I found my wife has been putting low octane in my Saab V6 wagon which also wants high octane. I've noticed no difference in preformance, mileage or sound due to it...but I really don't want to take that chance in my Porsche with it's scary little engine.
  11. rsfeller
    big $$$ at dealer, yes and no.
  12. rsfeller
    A load test wouldn't hurt and if it checks out fine I would check your grounds. Lastly, the starter could be getting grouchy but I would bet on the first two ideas. Looks like you don't drive that car in poor weather so I doubt the grounds are corroding unless there is just a lose one on the starter.
  13. rsfeller
    I"m assuming you are in a warm garage from the photo as it's still not warm enough in minosota yet! Honestly, I've never liked bras for many reasons but for the most because of the fit and when I found that my factory bra was poor fit I sold it for peanuts on ebay. It has to be about 120F outside, in the sun, with a hairdryer, the planets aligned and a rabbits foot around your neck. Break out the hairdryer if you cannot install it in the sun. I had a Vw Vanagon Westfalia I restored from head to tail. I decided to take it on a 2000 mile trip 2 months after the new paint job and figured the brick on wheels need a nice bra, so I bought the best. It took an hour in the sun on a HOT day to get it to fit only to have one of the hooks snap on the freeway and damage the paint job. Hate them in every way, but the only useful information I can give you is do it in the sun or with a hairdryer. Then when you put it in the cool garage it will snap back into shape, maybe. If you have it on already then you may have to wait for a warm day in the sun to get it just right still.
  14. rsfeller
    I think you answered you own question on the fuel pump, if it wasn't working then you wouldn't be able to get it to hold and idle with the pedal. Pumps run continuously. Sounds like a vacuum leak to me. Do you have any error codes?
  15. rsfeller
    So what was the so called leak fix for $350, thicker oil?
  16. rsfeller
    This is very much a DIY job. Porsche in their wisdom for making weekend racers made very easy brakes to R&R. You may have the original pads and the Boxster has wear indicators, which are little switches that will trigger the brake pad warning light on your dash when they become low. I changed my pads/rotors when I bought mine used and the sensors had not triggered the light yet. You most likely have the "chatter" associated with the pads not having the seize/chatter grease on the back plates or they may be dry from age. You need to determine the condition of the rotors & pads and figure out if it's worth to reapply the grease or simply replace pads (and/or rotors) which also requires the grease. Sounds like brake pad chatter 101. some get it going forward, some backwards but it usually goes away with an increase in pedal pressure.
  17. rsfeller
    180F is normal operating temps, if not a few degrees low but the gauge may not be 100% dead on. Others will have answer which fan is cooling what as I don't recall at the moment, but it doesn't sound like you are running hot now...but then again the fan may be working if the issue is intermittent. Don't let it run hot or you are doomed!
  18. rsfeller
    That seems like a good price. How quick and you drop a trans and swap it w/o having to redo all your custom items? Do you have a pit or lift or the fun of doing it with ramps in the garage? Always curious about DIY work. I'm waiting for the day I will have to learn how to do a clutch/flywheel on my own. Never had to replace one EVER in a car I've owned!
  19. rsfeller
    I envy you ability to race a Porsche! but I believe you fall into the same category as us "boaters", you're never allow to complain about the cost of maintenance of an elective money pit!! I to think tranmissions are voodoo and know little of their interworkings. Although many speak of this being a solid 5 speed from Vw/Porsche I'm curious of it's record at being thrashed on the track expecially with soup'd up engines. Are guys running blowers or 3.xL killing them?
  20. rsfeller
    I do recall from your previous post now that you raced the car and used the inferred to detect the failure posibility of the CV. Obviously no wasted money since you race them, but I was concerned for a daily driver. Most road cars give very specific signs of CV failure that are a bit elusive at first. My CV failure on my porsche was just like my vanagon (with a transaxle too) and you could hear the sound (click) on sweaping turns, but it was hard to determine which one was to blame. Good luck and I hope it's nothing detrimental with the tranny. Keep your eyes peeled for the Porsche demantler on Ebay from Oklahoma as I've seen him have engine/trans combos before and I feel his prices are very resonable.
  21. rsfeller
    No offense but is sure sounds like you were just throwing money at the CV w/o really inspecting them. C/V always have tell tale failure signs that you can diagnosis before you spend all the money. Additionally, if you have had the transmission out before is there not some other issue from negligence to be the current cause? Bad rebuild, fluid change, ect?
  22. rsfeller
    great info. I figured there was a visual cue as I didn't see the part number from your first photo. I'm going to do some poking under the hook this weekend and see where I'm at on my 1997 which as far as I know is original and trouble free. I'm still waiting for an AOS, MAF and RMS failure!
  23. rsfeller
    How do you tell the old design from the update visually or by code stamp?
  24. rsfeller
    Of course the switch may be to blame but there are other sensors that must read proper values before an UP or DOWN process can occur. This includes switches on the door piller next to the drivers shoulder as well as the switches at the top of the windshield. I"m a bit rusty at the moment telling you the logic and location of each switch but they all can be to blame. If the problem is rears it's symptoms in both up and down positions I would start with the main switch and then check 12+ to the top transmission motor. There is good information in the Bentley on this stuff. One of the Porsche tech manuals have a list of the microswitch logic. Since I'm so rusty I'll reference here in this screenshot. If you want to see the entire section on convertible tops send me a private message.
  25. rsfeller
    As inexpensive and prone to failure as they are it's worth a try for sure!
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