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Wayne R. Dempsey

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Everything posted by Wayne R. Dempsey

  1. I wouldn't purchase a drive axle that is $60, that's way too cheap to be a quality part. -Wayne
  2. The flexible gas hoses in those pictures need to be zipped away from the long float wand that moves up and down. -Wayne
  3. The little radio knobs on the stock radios are pretty terrible, and often deteriorate with age. You can purchase new ones from Porsche (PN: 996-645-901-00), or check Pedro's site for a tip about how to refurbish your old ones. -Wayne
  4. There are two idlers on the front of the engine, and although they look identical, they have different part numbers. I'm not sure what the actual difference is between the two, but you need to order the correct one. I have an article on replacing this (for the Boxster, but the pulleys are the same) here: http://www.pelicanpa...ler_Pullies.htm Do you need the one with the yellow arrow or the green arrow? -Wayne
  5. Hi everyone. I have a new article coming out on the removal and installation of the IMS bearing with a few really neat tricks that will ease installation. I've been working with Charles on this and also Scott Slauson (Softronic), who originally pioneered the whole idea of removing the double-row bearing with the puller. We're also in the process of developing a different IMS replacement kit that will be less expensive than LN Engineering's kit, but will be recommended to be replaced every clutch job (about 30,000 miles). Charles' kit will still be the gold standard for replacement. Stay tuned, I should have the article done in about a week or two. I have multiple engines in my garage that we're testing on right now! -Wayne
  6. Did they run a compression ratio and/or leakdown test? I don't always trust people who have an incentive to have you spend lots of money with them. -Wayne
  7. Hari is right. Sachs and Luk make the clutch components for Porsche. If you buy a Genuine Porsche clutch, you will get the same exact Sachs clutch kit in a Porsche box for about 2-3X more money. The warranty on the Porsche kit is 2-years, versus 1-year with Sachs, so you're basically paying for a warranty in this case. The Sachs kit is top quality, and one I highly recommend. I don't have the 996 article up yet, but here's a link to our Boxster clutch replacement article, which is very similar to the 996: http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/Boxster_Tech/44-TRANS-Clutch/44-TRANS-Clutch.htm -Wayne
  8. It's definitely an issue to be concerned about. I've designed an IMS replacement kit that will be out very soon - we're testing it right now. There's a big thread over on the Pelican Boxster forum right now regarding our new kit and how it compares to the LN Engineering kit... -Wayne
  9. I just posted a similar article on our site: http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/Boxster_Tech/13-ENGINE-Common_Engine_Failures/13-ENGINE-Common_Engine_Failures.htm It contains some updated information from Jim's article... Enjoy! -Wayne
  10. I've got an article I just put up where I talk about the pros and cons of this: http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/Boxster_Tech/24-FUEL-Performance_Software/24-FUEL-Performance_Software.htm Softronic makes a good product, although there are plenty out there as well. -Wayne
  11. Piece of cake. You can almost do it faster than it takes to type this post. Here's my article on the subject: http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/Boxster_Tech/65-BODY-Lenses_-_Bulbs/65-BODY-Lenses_-_Bulbs.htm -Wayne
  12. Yes, it sounds like the electrical switch is broken on your car. The 987 actually only has an electronic switch - no mechanical links to it. The steering lock is controlled by an electronic solenoid-type box (good luck if *that* fails). You should be able to simply pull off the rubber plug, and release the nut underneath to remove the switch. Here's a link to my article, but the 987 is a lot simpler than the 986: http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/Boxster_Tech/86-ELEC-Ignition_Switch/86-ELEC-Ignition_Switch.htm -Wayne
  13. The move towards longer oil changes has been pushed by the government, in an attempt to reduce the amount of waste put into the system each year (which is in general, a good thing). However, longer oil changes don't help when gas and other contaminants get in there. The oil itself is still good, but with gas mixed in, it deteriorates. I suggest 3K to 5K miles based upon many discussions with Charles Navarro at LN Engineering. Here's a link to my oil change article, if that's useful: http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/Boxster_Tech/02-BASICS-Oil_Change/02-BASICS-Oil_Change.htm -Wayne
  14. I would start with the basics: Check for vacuum leaks and then take a closer look at the MAF. Here are two tech articles I wrote that may help: http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/Boxster_Tech/21-FUEL-Vacuum_Leaks/21-FUEL-Vacuum_Leaks.htm http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/Boxster_Tech/27-FUEL-Mass_Air_Flow_Sensor/27-FUEL-Mass_Air_Flow_Sensor.htm -Wayne
  15. If you bought a used one, then I would think you would just use the used one? Here's an article on the swap out, it's fairly straightforward: http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/Boxster_Tech/91-ELEC-turn_signal_switch_-_OBC_upgrade/91-ELEC-turn_signal_switch_-_OBC_upgrade.htm -Wayne
  16. Yes, you can order a new lock cylinder from Porsche, I think you have to specify the lock ID or VIN number and they will rekey it for you. I show this as $375 in our catalog. A less expensive alternative would be to take the thing apart, clean it, and then put it back together. Years of sticking gunk in there from the key is probably making it sticky. Here's a tech article that may help: http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/Boxster_Tech/86-ELEC-Ignition_Switch/86-ELEC-Ignition_Switch.htm Hope this helps, Wayne
  17. The master and slave work together to push on the pressure plate. Could be one of the three, although typically pedal problems are a hydraulic issue. How many miles are on the clutch? If it's pretty old, I would probably recommend replacing it, and also replacing the master and slave cylinder at the same time. That would 100% fix the problem. Or, you could start with the hydraulics and then replace the clutch if that doesn't fix the problem. That would probably be the most economical way to go. I have two articles on the clutch hydraulics and replacement here: http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/Boxster_Tech/45-TRANS-Clutch_Hydraulics/45-TRANS-Clutch_Hydraulics.htm and http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/Boxster_Tech/44-TRANS-Clutch/44-TRANS-Clutch.htm . Hope you find this info useful. -Wayne
  18. Hmm, I feature that in my book too (see Figure 3 here, for those who have no idea what we're all talking about here: http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/Boxster_Tech/69-BODY-Hardtop_Installation/69-BODY-Hardtop_Installation.htm). That would be a shame if they are no longer available. I think they were made in South Africa, right? -Wayne
  19. Replacing the rear plastic window gets a 9/10 on the difficulty scale for me, and I'm pretty handy. On our project car, I opted instead to go for the smaller glass window installation, boy was that a good choice. The glass is great, particularly if the car will be outside in the sun at all. I have a big article we just put up on this here: http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/Boxster_Tech/70-BODY-Convertible_Glass_Window/70-BODY-Convertible_Glass_Window.htm -Wayne
  20. Shifter bushings will wear over time, and possibly cause the problems that you have. We replaced the ones on my project car last year - the thing shifts like a go cart now. The Short Shift kits that are available replace the bushings, but you can also use these bushings (without the short shift kit handle) to improve your shifting. I've got a brand new article on the subject, located here: http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/Boxster_Tech/42-TRANS-Short_Shift_Kit/42-TRANS-Short_Shift_Kit.htm I hope this helps, Wayne
  21. This DIY is for the Boxster (we're working on the 996 version), but it may be helpful to you anyways: http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/Boxster_Tech/82-ELEC-Alternator/82-ELEC-Alternator.htm -Wayne
  22. If both horns have stopped working, then your problem may lie elsewhere. For my 996, it was a previous owner who didn't hook up the lead to the horn in the steering wheel correctly. Still, if you need to get to the horns, you do need to remove the front bumper. I just published an article on this here: http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/Boxster_Tech/68-BODY-Front_Bumper_-_Wheel_Liner/68-BODY-Front_Bumper_-_Wheel_Liner.htm Hope this helps, Wayne
  23. Here's my DIY article on removing and installing a new pump (It's nearly the same as the Boxster): http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/Boxster_Tech/22-FUEL-Fuel_Pump/22-FUEL-Fuel_Pump.htm Using the instructions in the article, you can "jumper" the pump and test it. Chances are if it's flowing, it's probably good. These seem to fail outright - they don't really fail with low pressure problems... Hope this helps, -Wayne
  24. We're working on the 996 DIY article for Pelican right now. I have the Boxster one up, which is similar, but not exactly the same: http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/Boxster_Tech/44-TRANS-Clutch/44-TRANS-Clutch.htm Still you might find it useful, hope this helps, -Wayne
  25. We had this question come up at Tony Callas' Tech Session this past weekend. You can buy a used key off of eBay and then program it to start the car. Unfortunately, you cannot use it to access the alarm system without the little tag. So, it's somewhat useful as a backup or spare, but not 100%. -Wayne
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