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Everything posted by JFP in PA

  1. Not necessarily, it all depends upon how bad the rings are. A good leak down across the board would eliminate any engine issues and tell you the oil problem lies elsewhere; the question then becomes where. Easiest way to look at the turbo is to disconnect the intake side, looking for evidence of oil and check the turbo's shaft for movement side to side; there should be no play. People seem to forget the turbo's are pressure lubricated by engine oil, and if the shaft develops play, oil will leak towards the intake side due to the presence of intake vacuum on that side. If it is leaking oil, it needs to be replaced or rebuilt. A new one is going to run $3k from the dealer, or you could check locally and see who rebuilds them in your area. As you are in Jake Raby's backyard, I would call his shop and ask who they use.
  2. Welcome to RennTech The engine compartment blower fan may have gotten something stuck in the fan, which can make one Hell of din. No true factory PSE drones, period. If a PSE is installed without all the controls, the default position is open or loud. Takes some pictures and post them, I'm willing to bet it is a cheap aftermarket unit.
  3. You could start with a leak down test to check the sealing condition of the rings. You could also take a peek at the turbo to see if it has oil inside of it on the intake side.
  4. You’ve answered your own question: You unplugged the device and the drain went away; it is the device. As for living under the thumb of the insurance company, that is your call.........
  5. Welcome to RennTech There are four sensors, two ahead of the three way cats, two behind them. P1275 is for the sensor ahead of the three way cat on bank 1, and says it is aging out.
  6. Porsche never published any information about rebuilding these engines as they did not want that done in the field. Jake Raby runs online and in person schools on the subject, and is the only source for printed material on the required torque specs, etc.
  7. Sure: Throw away the insurance device. Besides killing your battery, anytime you drive the car anywhere near like it was meant to be driven, they will raise your rates because you over accelerated, over braked, or cornered too quickly. These things are "big brother" in action...…….
  8. Not necessarily; check your crank position sensor. When the CPS stops registering rotation, the DME shuts off the power to the fuel system and the ignition because it thinks the engine is not turning. And a bad CPS will not always throw codes.
  9. Appears to be L/s squared, or liter per second squared, which would be a volumetric measurement.
  10. It is a UK car, which came with sirens, which also had their own batteries, which is probably the issue here. The black box is the siren, the lower box is a tilt sensor, which is apparently well known for causing problems. The unit sits next to the main battery, under a cover. Here it is out of the car:
  11. We have worked with both the Schnell and the B&M units, personally I find the B&M unit better made and have seen far fewer problems with it.
  12. Anytime. As often quoted, the devil is always in the details...…………….
  13. You need to wait 45-60 min. to allow the normal shutdown of systems in the car that do that to reduce drain. That process is completely normal.
  14. You need to run a parasitic drain test. Put a digital multimeter in between the battery positive terminal and the disconnected positive cable, with the meter set on mA. Wait at least 45 min. and it should read 40-60 mA. If it reads higher, start pulling fuses one at a time until it drops into that range; the last fuse you pulled is the source of your drain.
  15. Check the cable at the transmission end, those ends are known to come loose.
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