JFP in PA

Easy to tell by looking at it, the OEM plug is silver in color and has an 8MM Allan key way; the LN unit is black and uses a 10MM Allan.

Yes. There should be a DIY on how to access it in the archives. It is behind the front bumper cover The cable is on the right hand (US driver's) side, the forward top portion. You have to pull hard on it to release the latch. The cable is exactly the one on the picture (arrow) but further aft because now the picture show the front bumper cover removed:

Have you checked the grounds on the seat belt buckles? They are well known for ground related faults. No, this was new information for me. Where can I find it / them ??? The seat belt buckles, the part that the shoulder harness plugs into, have wires running to them that tell the system when the seat belts are buckled and turn off the seat belt alert chimes. They also help tell the air bag system which seats are occupied in case of a crash, as well as controlling the system pre-tensioners. If the buckles get dirt in them, they often do not register properly and the air bag system declares a fault. Sometimes, but not always, just cleaning out the buckles with some electrical contact cleaner will solve the issue, other times the buckle and/or wiring harness need to be replaced as wear has broken the circuit. I have tried to clean but it does not help. I have noticed that the warning lamp for the "safety belt" is not lit when driving without a seat belt. The warning light does not indicate when starting the car. I have never seen the light shine sometime? It is sounding more like you have a buckle or wiring issue, you should get an indication and/or a audio alarm of some sort if you try driving without the seat belt. I get no sound or indicator in the display. Neither the driver side or passenger side. The lamp has never shone in my possession of the car. You advise me to change Buckel seat? No, I am advising you to do some diagnostics to find out why the car does not sense that you are driving it with the seat belts undone. The buckle is just one component in this system that needs to be tested either electrically or using a Porsche specific scan tool. Besides the buckles, there are also weight sensors in the seat cushion's that sense when someone sits in the seat. Something in this network of contacts (in the buckles) and sensors is obviously not functioning correctly. Are you sure someone has not disconnected something in the system before you purchased the car, which is why none of the alerts are set off when you drive without seatbelts? If you go back to Loren's post on the meaning of the code you are seeing, it looks like something is not connected or misconnected.

Have you checked the grounds on the seat belt buckles? They are well known for ground related faults. No, this was new information for me. Where can I find it / them ??? The seat belt buckles, the part that the shoulder harness plugs into, have wires running to them that tell the system when the seat belts are buckled and turn off the seat belt alert chimes. They also help tell the air bag system which seats are occupied in case of a crash, as well as controlling the system pre-tensioners. If the buckles get dirt in them, they often do not register properly and the air bag system declares a fault. Sometimes, but not always, just cleaning out the buckles with some electrical contact cleaner will solve the issue, other times the buckle and/or wiring harness need to be replaced as wear has broken the circuit. I have tried to clean but it does not help. I have noticed that the warning lamp for the "safety belt" is not lit when driving without a seat belt. The warning light does not indicate when starting the car. I have never seen the light shine sometime? It is sounding more like you have a buckle or wiring issue, you should get an indication and/or a audio alarm of some sort if you try driving without the seat belt.

Mijostyn is on the money here. Because of the design and setup lead times in automotive manufacturing, just about any digital or electronic entertainment technology that appears in a car is usually already about 5 years old when it first appears in the car, so it is not unusual to be able to do much better for less money in the aftermarket. Take the money and go buy something that better suits your needs.

Please do not post the same topic multiple times, it is against forum rules.

Have you really been using 0W-30 oil?

OK, some more data: Porsche released a TSB (TSB #ATI-1301) entitled " INFORMATION PROVIDED ON SUCCESSFULLY CALIBRATING ELECTRONIC PARKING BRAKES. MODELS 2010-2013 PANAMERA, CAYENNE". I do not have a copy, but you may find one on the web.

The PIWIS will do it, but perhaps someone on the site has come up with an alternative "work around".

Only on engines with very high mileage or scored cylinder walls.

Unfortunately, while the Durametric can see many things, fuel pressure is not one of them; that requires a mechanical gauge hooked up to the test port on the fuel rail. The Durametric would still be an excellent addition to any Porsche owners tool kit however.

A decent fuel test unit (Actron) is going to be about $60 or so, and has adaptors to work on just about anything. With a test unit, you can test for fuel pressure and delivery rates to determine if the fuel pump is working correctly. You can also check for pressure bleed down while the engine is off, a sign the regulator is on the way out.

I seriously doubt the new CPS is at fault, it is a simple Hall Effect sensor with no moving parts. Do you have a fuel pressure test unit for the car? That would be the next thing that I would look at

As there are no activations in Durametric for the parking brake on your model & year, I would have to say no.

That looks like the EVAP system purge line.

Have you checked the grounds on the seat belt buckles? They are well known for ground related faults. No, this was new information for me. Where can I find it / them ??? The seat belt buckles, the part that the shoulder harness plugs into, have wires running to them that tell the system when the seat belts are buckled and turn off the seat belt alert chimes. They also help tell the air bag system which seats are occupied in case of a crash, as well as controlling the system pre-tensioners. If the buckles get dirt in them, they often do not register properly and the air bag system declares a fault. Sometimes, but not always, just cleaning out the buckles with some electrical contact cleaner will solve the issue, other times the buckle and/or wiring harness need to be replaced as wear has broken the circuit.

Have you checked the grounds on the seat belt buckles? They are well known for ground related faults.

+1

As the car must have taken a jolt when you hit the pothole, the plug connector on the temp sensor or the surge tank level sensor may have come loose. Suggest checking them for a tight connections.

Hey JFP. I changed my oil yesterday. My drain plug uses a T50 Torx. Is this unusual? Careful inspection does reveal that the teeth are indeed squished a little to one side, the side engaged when removing the plug! Factory or aftermarket plug? You need to remember that certain Allan key sizes approximate some Torx bit sizes, but not perfectly. Continued use of the wrong type of bit will wear and elongate the device, particularly the very soft OEM plugs.

There is a reason for that, your dead or near dead battery is absorbing the current so fast, the alarm never sees it and goes off. You are going to have to live with the alarm sound until the power level in the battery builds up, or resort to using the manual emergency cable to release the front hood so you can either charge up (yes, the alarm will sound unless you disconnect the battery) or replace the battery entirely. And when you install a new battery, the alarm may sound yet again, but will respond to being reset by the remote.

LUK is one of the largest OEM flywheel supplier's in the world, and is also one of Porsches OEM suppliers. I would not be surprised to find out it bears the same part number as the Porsche factory part.

While debate rages on concerning the use of single mass vs. dual mass flywheels on these engines, even though Porsche released a tech brief to their dealers some time ago advising against their use, the jury remains still out on the significance adding a dampening unit on the other end of the crank. While it cannot hurt, I'm not sure anyone has demonstrated to what level it helps

Any time, glad you got it sorted. We have seen more than our share of failed or failing CPS in these cars, and it is one sensor that can act up, or even fail totally, shutting off an otherwise perfectly running engine, or prevent one from starting, all without throwing a code.

I just read that, and still have no idea why that did it that way, other than to show how to remove an IMS bearing without using the now accepted tools. Once the cams are released and the heads are off, there is no load on the IMS shaft, so pulling the bearing is not required before splitting the cases. I would remove the flange cover first, however.