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Everything posted by JFP in PA

  1. If it is not available in the Porsche part system, look in a junkyard that handles Porsche.
  2. Welcome to RennTech That is the factory outside air temperature sensor, which provides ambient temperature data to the DME to help the system adjust engine settings to temperature changes.
  3. Shops tend to function like the distillation process; very few cars come in to tell us everything is fine, and the owners have absolutely no problems 😉 Roseann Rosannadanna was correct, "...'if it's not one thing, it's another"...it's always somethin'."
  4. Depends upon how much time you have until you retire; the potential list is nearly endless: IMS, RMS, cracked cylinder heads, D-chunking, slipped cylinder liners, AOS, secondary air injection system, fuel pumps, battery cables, snapped oil pump drive, convertible top problems, second gear detent on six speeds, water getting to central locking/alarm computer, headlight wiring harness insulation falling off, power seat control issues, seat belt buckles, water pumps, etc., etc...............................I think you get the general idea, but a google search of known Boxster problems will keep you occupied for some time. 😉 And to be completely fair, Porsche is no worse than any other brand in this department; they all have issues, some little ones, others not so much.
  5. Considering that PCNA had to be the target of a class action law suit to acknowledge the IMS issue, which could result in catastrophic engine failures, I seriously doubt they would respond to this or several other known issues. Try cleaning the throttle jacking unit and the throttle body well with carburetor or fuel injector cleaner. If that does not clear the problem you will likely need to replace the throttle jacking unit. If that doesn’t do it, it may be the DME.
  6. I think your problem may rest with the central locking computer under the driver’s seat, which prevents the car from starting by shutting off the fuel and ignition. These cars are infamous for letting water accumulate in the area where the control unit is located, causing corrosion and shorts that lead to problems with the windows, starting, locking the car, and an entire host of other nightmares. Suggest disconnecting your battery, removing your driver seat, pulling the control unit and opening it up; if it shows any signs of corrosion or water, that needs to be fixed first. There have been an endless list of posts here and elsewhere about this issue with photos of what a damaged control unit looks like. Good luck, and this is not an inexpensive repair.
  7. OK, here’s the problem: There are more than one “terminal 30” in these cars. Lorne has pointed out the one on the cell phone cable under the center part of the dash, and there is another one on the fuel pump relay. So let’s go back and start with your faults, exactly which fault codes are you getting?
  8. Welcome to RennTech Let’s start with the obvious: What exactly are you attempting to do?
  9. I would start with two Oz. The only thing the dye concentration impacts is how brightly the coolant is florescent under UV light, so an exact ratio is not critical.
  10. If the coils show any signs of cracking, regardless of what they do when water is sprayed on them, I would can them and install new units. Once they start cracking, it is only a matter of time before they fail...............................😉
  11. It doesn't show as a separate item in either the PET or Porsche's online parts system, so you are going to need the help of a savvy Porsche parts person to find it for you.
  12. Then I would check the fuel lines in that area; brackets are often referred to as "retainers" in Porsche speak.....
  13. Not a problem. I would also suggest you do an online search for LN Engineering's IMS retrofit instructions (PDF file), which are short, and truly clear on the steps and procedures to assure the retrofit goes smoothly the first time. There are a lot of versions on how to do this, but LNs are decidedly the best out there: IMSR-Instruction-Warranty.pdf (lnengineering.com)
  14. It isn't as bad as it looks; in fact, several things are more accessible on the X51 than they are on the standard engine. The intake is a very tight fit in the engine bay however.....................
  15. You really did not need that tool kit, it is for resetting the cam timing or removing the cams themselves. You should have a kit that looks like this: As yours is a five-chain engine, you should be using the shorter of the two cam holding tools (just below the long bolt on the left above), and it gets inserted into the exhaust side cam on the passenger's side bank, towards the front of the car.
  16. As the dyes do not affect anything, they will be fine. We have always used the Uview dye systems with excellent results.
  17. You are looking at around one hour of diagnostic time, and as dealer hourly cost vary with geography, which can be anywhere from around $150 to as much as $300. The problem with the convertible top well flooding has been well known and documented since the early 2000's. The well under where the tops stores is well designed to collect water and funnel it to the two drains that drop it under the car. Problem has been from day one that these drains quickly become plugged with grass clippings, leaf debris and the like, resulting in the well becoming flooded. When the car is in motion, and the brakes are applied, a wave of the trapped water sloshes over the well lip and directly under the driver's seat where the central locking module lives. Around 2001-2002 Porsche realized there was a significant problem (due to the number of modules they were replacing under warranty) and released the specially contoured screens to protect the well drains. Having installed a ton of these screens, you would be amazed at how many cars had either one or both drains completely plugged, and even had standing water in the wells. The preventative fix is simple: Clean out the drains with compressed air and/or soapy water, then plug in the screens. Problem solved, I have had them in my personal car since they were released, and drains have never needed cleaning again................😉
  18. To offer any real assistance, we need the exact codes that were read; without them, anything would be a guess.
  19. The central locking computer is toast. It may be repairable, but that could end up costing more than getting a new one and having it programmed. Good luck and when you are paying for the new unit, remember that Porsche sells a $20 part that prevents this from happening:
  20. Those traces look more like it. The check engine light will go off with miles.
  21. The filter housing hold less than one liter of oil; if you are careful, you will lose very little replacing the O-ring. Also, make sure you didn't leave an O-ring behind when you first changed the oil (common mistake). As for the oil level, you should be running it two bars down from full in the first place.
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