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Everything posted by JFP in PA

  1. If you are suffering issues with the factory AOS, I would be looking at your oil sump level; cold, it should be one to two lines below the maximum level. Overfilling the sump to the max indication can shorten the lifespan of the AOS. We see this issue all the time as people tend to fill the oil to the max line and beyond (there is no indication of when the system is overfilled). That said, the factory AOS units, while the best available, are not impervious to failures. Like brake pads or a clutch, they are considered maintenance consumables. I think the two parts you are referring to are oil scavenging units, which are designed to help get the oil out of the cam covers and back to the sump, and they are rarely if ever replaced.
  2. Porsche has gone rather stiff necked about adding options post delivery. If memory serves, you have to have the clock, and pay Porsche to recode the car as having both. Most dealers seem to charge the exact amount you would have laid out to have it as a factory option. Not a pretty situation, but then you are dealing with Porsche...…...
  3. It would make sense to be sure you don't have any leaks before replacing all the coolant. Once everything is tight, the Uview is the way to go and is a great time saver when replacing the coolant mix.
  4. Nice car; I would suggest monitoring the coolant level at least a few times a week to see if it moves again. If it does drop, consider getting the coolant system pressure tested, which will allow you to look over every hose connection, etc. These engines used cemented in coolant hose connections that are known leakers, and in fact most tracks won't let you out on the racing surface unless these fittings have either been pinned or welded to eliminate any chance of getting a system dump on the track surface.
  5. Welcome to RennTech Stop playing around and get it scanned with a Porsche specific scan tool to find out what is wrong.
  6. What kind of fuel pressure and delivery rates are you seeing?
  7. They are two seperate systems, so they should not be able to interact with each other. What may be an at issue is the cluster may have problems.
  8. Run a leak down test on the engine, bore scope it, pull the sump cover and oil filter looking for metal like you have already found, look it over carefully for external damage, check the engine number on the sump rail to make sure it is what it is supposed to be (not a 2.5L masquerading as a 3.6L). You need to also be careful what year the engine is as major systems changed several times (DME version, fuel system, communications protocols like the expanding use of CAN bus technology for the sensors to communicate over in later model years, etc.) While just about any year will bolt in, not every year will connect to your chassis and communicate properly.
  9. The answer to that question is almost endless: New IMS, new RMS, new AOS, new low temp thermostat, new water pump, etc. etc...…..
  10. Check with your local PCA chapter, and do some searching. Engines occasionally show up here, but you need to find one closer to home, you really don't want to be shipping one of these all over the place.
  11. Rebuilding the M96/97 engine is not for the faint of heart or budget; specialty tools and knowledge are a necessity, and just returning it to factory spec can run you $15K in parts and machine shop time. You can source a running engine usually for less than $5K.
  12. Bigger question is where did it come from? In good health, these engines do not do that...………...
  13. Welcome to RennTech You have a seven year old car, well out of warranty; good luck with that...….
  14. The very latest models still have drain plugs, and siphoning oil out of one of these cars is at a minimum tricky, at the worst a disaster. Do a search for those that had problems siphoning oil out of these cars and you will see what I mean. And just as a by-the-by, the oil level in these engine's should not be at the max line, but rather one to two lines below when the engine is cold.
  15. Using a digital manometer, check the vacuum level at the oil cap; if it is more than 5 inches of water, you need a new AOS.
  16. You will get 5-6 liters of old fluid out of your Tip, and changing it a second time is not a bad idea. This should help you with the front diff:
  17. You might want to contact Jake Raby at Flat Six Innovations, he has actually published a lot of engine internal specs for Porsche's that cannot be found anywhere else.
  18. Unfortunately, Porsche has become more parsimonious with time when it comes to engine spec minutia as they don't even want their dealer techs working inside these engines, and they are not the only OEM that behaves in this manner.
  19. To my knowledge, Porsche did not use that measurement as spec on these engines. Instead, they had specs for overall valve length from tip to tip as 110.1 +/- 0.1MM on the intakes and 109+/- 0.1MM on the exhausts, and installed valve spring heights on valves that passed the overall spec at 36.7 +/- 0.3MM intakes and 35.7 +/- 0.3MM exhausts as measured from the spring seat to the bottom of the spring retainer.
  20. Welcome to RennTech All Porsche literature is protected intellectual property of Porsche: as such, we do not provide or condone the copying or posting of such information. That said, you should be able to obtain a copy directly from Porsche, either at your dealer or through their website.
  21. Check the voltage drop across your primary battery cables, it may just be an internal resistance issue, which is not uncommon.
  22. The immobilizer functions by shutting off power to both the fuel system and the ignition.
  23. Welcome to RennTech One of the functions of the immobilizer is to shut off the fuel system, so if you are getting intermittent codes for the unit, I'd start there. Your voltage reading also is questionable, you should be seeing around 12V.
  24. Welcome to RennTech Porsche discontinued printed service manual more than ten years ago, so copies are hard to come by. The only decent and current "online" manual I know of is Porsches PIWIS TSI system, which is pricey. A decent print manual is the Bentley Boxster manual. Good luck.
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