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JFP in PA

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Everything posted by JFP in PA

  1. JFP in PA
    Correct.
  2. JFP in PA
    Strange, we still get them with the coating, but then we buy them in bulk. In any case, the rule of thumb is simple: Anything that rotates, vibrates, is time consuming to get at, or can come flying out if the bolts come loose will benefit from Loctite. As I noted earlier, we Loctite flywheel and pressure plate bolts on every make of car, you really do not want these to come loose. The axle flange bolts are an excellent example, we find loose ones all the time. Loctite is cheap, repairing a car that has had a pressure plate or flywheel come loose is not.
  3. JFP in PA
    New flywheel and pressure plate bolts should come with thread locker on them; if they don't, I would not hesitate to use Loctite. Trans case bolts do not need thread locker, but the CV bolts definitely need it.
  4. JFP in PA
    We have never needed to use bearing compound.
  5. JFP in PA
    There are a lot of strange branded tires coming out of the orient these days. Nexen, for example, is a Korean tire.
  6. JFP in PA
    Hard to tell from your picture, but it is not unusual to find bits of hardened sealant and from the chain wear pads in the sump.
  7. JFP in PA
    Pull the seals off the bearing and see if there is any grease still in it. You should not need any retaining compounds on the new bearing as it should be an interference fit. I would however look that the inside of the shaft to see if it has similar marks.
  8. JFP in PA
    We always replace the RMS once you get that far in, the newer PTFE design is much better than the old style seals. I would also do the AOS.
  9. JFP in PA
    The fans can be tested using a Porsche diagnostic tool to see if they are running correctly or not. I would start there.
  10. JFP in PA
    Sorry, you are correct, I meant to say "cam plugs facing away from the flywheel". It is not uncommon to have to rotate the engine more than one cycle to get the cams to line up when the engine is at TDC.
  11. JFP in PA
    You need to hand rotate the engine to TDC (clockwise rotation only), at which point the crank locking pin will just slide into the engine's crank pulley and the boss on the engine case. This locks the crank from moving. Then remove the cam plugs on the cylinder head facing away from the flywheel and insert and bolt down the cam locking tool. At this point, nothing can move and you are safe to pull the tensioners out per the LN instructions and move foward with the IMS retrofit. You can use an impact to remove both the pressure plate and flywheel bolts as they will not be reused. Do not use an impact on the IMS flange bolts. Do not use the impact to reinstall any of the bolts, use a torque wrench.
  12. JFP in PA
    Absolutely it is necessary. Taking short cuts on an IMS retrofit is a recipe for disaster; most of the ones we see that have gone bad did so because those doing the swap did not follow the LN proceedures to the letter.
  13. JFP in PA
    I'm not sure sure about that RMS tool (FVD Brombacher (Part #FVD 721 T25 0)) as it looks like the old style tool which would install the newer PTFE seal at the wrong service depth. What was the measurement from the crank face to the seal when installed?
  14. JFP in PA
    Depends upon the quality of the silicone hoses. A lot of silicone hose softens dramatically as it warms, which is going to be the case in an engine compartment. If you can get hose that is designed for the heat, you should be fine.
  15. JFP in PA
    http://www.renntech.org/forums/tutorials/article/310-v8-automatic-transmission-fluid-and-filter-change/
  16. JFP in PA
    No, but a lack of commuinications between the pill in the key and the alarm module would do it.
  17. JFP in PA
    If you have already replaced the ignition switch, I'd check the car's main grounds (starter/alternator circuits) for excessive voltage drop (sign of corrosion/bad connections). You should be able to find a DIY using a simple multimeter.
  18. JFP in PA
    You have an air leak somewhere, the codes indicate that both banks are running so lean that the DME can no longer compensate. Based upon the sound you describe, I'd start by looking at the EVAP system which is adjacent to the fuel filler in the passenger side front wheel well. Do a search, there have been postings with photos about this system and its potential leak points.
  19. JFP in PA
    You will probably need to calibrate the fuel level system after changing the sending unit, which will require either the Durametric software or a PIWIS.
  20. JFP in PA
    You have a communications failure over the CAN Bus. This is going to require checking the bus it self as well as testing the individual controllers for the codes.
  21. JFP in PA
    You can also get it for $33.64 with free shipping on Amazon (http://www.amazon.com/Bosch-0280142308-Purge-Valve/dp/B001COAS8M)
  22. JFP in PA
    Our normal service intervals for the Tiptronic are 40-60K, regardless of total mileage.
  23. JFP in PA
    You may or may not hear a "click" as it is often faint.
  24. JFP in PA
    Check fuse E6, and then read this: http://www.renntech.org/forums/files/getdownload/87-94boxster-fuel-tank-hose-modificationpdf/
  25. JFP in PA
    The hydraulic system in these cars can easily generate one to two thousand PSIG of fluid pressure; using that to pop out a piston can be anything from dangerous to having brake fluid everywhere when it comes out. Gazing is the transfer of brake pad material (usually the resin that bonds the pads together ) to the rotor surface and then often back onto the pads themselves. Glazing can often be removed by lightly sanding the pads and buffing the rotors: If the rotors are very glazed, a light cut might be in order if they have enough meat left. Brake system pressure is measured by attaching gauges to either the calipers or the brake lines: An additional thought would be to check your power brake booster as well, they tend to collect water and suffer small vacuum leaks, which would also significantly reduce perceived braking efforts.
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