JFP in PA

And just an observation: This is one Hell of a lot easier with the engine out; actually saves time and allows you to do a better job with the engine on a stand; plus you can complete any other work at the same time.

Along with all the parts, you will need the cam retention tool to hold the cams in place while doing the work: Or some homemade version:

Welcome to RennTech Life isn't going to be that simple; the spec limits on cam deviation values is +/- 6, and at 5.23 you are getting close. Replacing the hydraulic tensioners is not going to help this problem; five chain engines are famous for having cam deviation issues caused by the small chain wear pads located in between the cams on the cylinder heads: Cost wise, the pads are not expensive, but getting at them is labor intensive, and one of the reason Porsche switched to a three-chain cam drive, which does not use them.

Welcome to RennTech, the Porsche technical reference website.

VW changed design, and it carried over to the 987, can still be removed and looks like this:

It should be a direct "plug and play" swap, as nothing inside the Tip is programable, all that stuff is outside in the unit's control module. The trans will probably have to go thru an adaptation relearn afterwards, but that just requires a "reset" not unlike zeroing the trip odometer. Most Porsche scan tools can handle it if it is required.

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You should be fine with just the two on the flywheel end of the engine. Wicking Loctite is a special product, green in color, and is highly recommended as it not only locks the center bolt nut, but totally stops oil walking down the bolt threads onto your clutch and flywheel, but note that the center bolt threads, and the nut need to be cleaned with brake cleaner or other solvent before assembly and application of the 290: And for future reference, the tensioner under the AC can be removed with either an open-end wrench or a crow's foot; there is just enough room to get it out without moving anything. 😉

I would be willing to bet you already have power to the harness, otherwise you would be getting an "open circuit" code, which you do not have currently, and the vehicle has gone into "limp mode". The code you are getting is pretty specific, the solenoid is not moving when it should, which also implies power in the system. You have a jammed solenoid, which needs replacing. When one jams, it is a good idea to replace them all, as one usually follows the others. A full set (aftermarket) retails in the $400 range, plus labor and fluid. Just be aware Porsche does not sell solenoids by themselves, they will tell you that you need a new transmission. Most aftermarket shops simply replace the entire valve body with solenoids with a rebuilt unit with new solenoids, ($700-800 for the unit) which usually fixes the problems. Ninety-nine times out of one hundred, problems like this result from Porsche's ridiculous tip oil service intervals; the trans should get fresh fluid and a filter at least every 45-50K miles. Overview of wiring harness -1- - Shift solenoid valve (S1) -2- - Plug connection for output shaft speed inductive pickup -2a- - Cable routing for output shaft speed inductive pickup -3- - Oil pressure switch 2 for transmission (omit in MY 2006) -4- - Oil pressure switch 1 for transmission (omit in MY 2006) -5- - Shift solenoid valve UK (modulation pressure) -6- - Input shaft speed (turbine speed) inductive pickup -7- - ATF temperature sensor -8- - Modulation pressure solenoid valve (main) -9- - Shift solenoid valve C1 (modulation pressure -10- - Shift solenoid valve C3 (modulation pressure) -11- - Shift solenoid valve B1 (modulation pressure) -12- - Shift solenoid valve C2 (modulation pressure) -13- - Shift solenoid valve (S2)

Unfortunately, a stuck or dead solenoid looks exactly like a brand new one right out of the box; the problem is internal.

Welcome to RennTech Located under the plastic engine covers, just above the rear of the cam covers near the firewall. There are two, one on each side.

No, not to my knowledge.

Crank thrust bearings generally do not make noise, when they fail, the crank journal adjacent to the thrust bearing simply tears up the engine case. Clicking sounds under acceleration on these cars is often one of the CV joints going bad. And long before allowing whoever is providing diagnostics on this car to empty the owner's wallet any further, there is a tool called the "electronic ear", which mounts multiple remote sound sensors on the vehicle before it is taken out for a test run. Any decent shop should have one and can precisely isolate sounds sources very quickly.

You need to remove the tensioners for a very simple reason: If you do not, and try to pull the IMS flange cover off, the IMS shaft (which is still under considerable tension load) will jump upwards and to the right, often jumping time in the process. Even if it does not jump time, you will not be able to reinstall the flange cover because of the IMS shaft position. Not removing the tensioners is one of the things that get people in trouble. We do not replace the engine case bolts unless the look problematic (seeping).

You need access to a Porsche specific scan tool to go further. P0700 Indicates the powertrain control module (PCM) detected an error in the vehicle speed information.

Welcome to RennTech I would do two things: Remove the coil packs on the misfiring cylinders and look at them for any signs of cracking; if you find any, they need to be replaced. Second, pull the plugs and "read" them, looking for carbon build up, signs of oil or fuel. If highly carboned or covered with fuel, you may have injector issues.

Oil degrades the elastomer in between the dual masses of the flywheel.

Dead dual mass flywheel, leaking IMS cover. I do not think Porsche sells the IMS cover flange seal by itself, only on a new cover; and a dead dual mass is not uncommon with an oil leak inside the bellhousing.

Welcome to RennTech I do not believe Porsche sells the regulator by itself, only with the $1300 pump. The pressure sensor is available by itself, however.

Sounds like you either have a very large parasitic power drain, a dying battery, or your charging system is malfunctioning, or some combination of these issues. Have the battery and the alternator load tested, many auto parts stores will do this for free. If everything checks out OK, you need to perform a parasitic drain test, which has been written up here and elsewhere multiple times, to identify which electrical circuit is the issue. As for the car's weird behavior, weak batteries and charging systems are well known for causing all sorts of strange behavior in these cars. Good luck!

I've never even tried to pull the trans without removing the exhaust system, so I have no idea if you will have enough clearance to get it out. We normally remove the rear bumper cover, rear crash bar, and the entire exhaust system up to the triangular flange.

Most likely a coil issue. Try clearing the codes and switching coils # 3 & 4, and see if the code comes back on the other cylinder. If it does, you will know what it is.

Just as a thought for future consideration, you can have you system tested for free at many auto parts stores, who offer the service in anticipation of selling a battery; or you can purchase a full featured hand held load tester for less than $100 that can be used to test any SLI battery you may have. 😉

You need to remove the two that tension the IMS chain on the flywheel end of the engine, easiest thing to do is locate an online copy of LN Engineering’s IMS retrofit instructions and follow them to the letter. The IMS flange has a ribbed seal around its circumference, not sure if Porsche offers it separate from the cover anymore.

Not to be pedantic, but while your “load test” was interesting, that is not how it is done in shop. We use a carbon pile load tester that can exert upwards of 100 Amp load when required. We set the device to the appropriate maximum load for the vehicle under test, and then apply the load for 15-30 seconds, awards looking at the battery and alternator voltage outputs to see how they respond. The load tester can also “tickle” the diodes in the alternator to see how they respond (an alternator with a questionable diode can seem to be putting out the correct voltage and current, but will suddenly drop off when fully loaded, causing both voltage and current swings). Something else that a proper load test spots is sulfated plates in the battery; sulfate builds up over time in a battery, increasing internal electrical resistance. When a sulfated battery is hit by the high amperage load, the voltage momentarily drops precipitously, often down to as low as 8-9 volts as the battery heats up, and then seems to go back to more reasonable voltage levels as the load comes off. When the battery does this, it is time to can it, it will not recover. The trick is to catch this quick voltage move when it happens, which a proper load testing system does.