JFP in PA

Basically, we have customers that always asked for us not to use the blue out of fear it would discolor the plastic reservoir, and we have obliged them. When the gold, or ATE 200 as it is properly known, get old and dirty, it is enough of a change when the clean fluid shows up at the bleeders. With the gold to blue, even Ray Charles could have caught the change over, but as the federal nannies have moved to prevent the end of civilization as we know it by banning any other color than yellow-amber for brake fluids, you will need to pay a bit more attention when flushing the car.

Along with defeating the purpose of the two colors, the blue is no longer available, but when it was it was exactly the same fluid as the gold, but with a blue dye in it.

When you pressure bleed, the new fluid moves through the system like a slug, pushing all the old dirty fluid in front of it, so there is no need to drain the reservoir. That is one of the beauties of doing it that way. Trying to drain the reservoir can also create issues as people sometimes drip brake fluid in the process which can blister paint and create a mess that is often difficult to clean up.

You can check the wiring using voltage drop test that will indicate if there is higher than expected resistance, particularly in the heavy cables, that would reduce the systems ability to turn over or start.

Completely unnecessary if you are doing a pressure bleed (Motive system).

Why? It is not necessary to remove the screen in order to bleed the system.

Not really, just quietly smiling when progress is finally made....... :thumbup:

If your continuity checks did not get continuity between sensor #2 harness pin #3 and DME harness pin #46; then sensor #1 harness pin#3 to DME harness pin #46 (these should be the sensor grounds), your O2 sensors have no ground circuit going back to the DME, which is why the DME is having problems seeing them.

An additional thought I had, and the OP may have already checked this so tell me to go sit down if he already has, is to disconnect the battery, unplug the problematic sensor on bank 1 & 2, unplug the harness from the DME, and check for continuity between sensor #2 harness pin #3 and DME harness pin #46; then sensor #1 harness pin#3 to DME harness pin #46 (these should be the sensor grounds). I would likewise test sensor harness pin #4 on bank 1 to DME harness pin #19, and harness pin #4 on bank 2 to DME harness pin 18. If all those circuits are electrically continuous, we may have a bad DME, but if any are not continuous, a harness issue.

John, the OP did confirm there's voltage (0.5v) to the precat sensors (harness side) multiple times hence the challenge. I understand that, but as the Durametric system is looking at them from the DME's perspective there still is no voltage being read, so they are effectively dead to the DME. Without the reference signal differential between the pre and post cat sensors, the system literally does not know what to do next. I would start tracing the harness from the sensors towards the DME, looking for damage, pinched wires, etc. The DME has to see voltage at both sensors to control the mixture. I'd also like to see the Durametric reproduce the pre and post cat voltage curves: If the system is not generating the two different voltage curves, the fuel mixture is basically out of the DME's control. Hi John, I also understand and agree with your reasoning. However, the 0.5v the OP measured at the sensor connector (harness side with sensor disconnected) has to come from the DME directly so that also implies the signal wire is intact all the way back the the DME. If that wire was shorted to ground, the OP should have seen 0v at the sensor harness.One sure way to confirm is to back probe the signal wire of the precat sensors directly when the engine is running and all sensors connected like normal. What also intrigue's me is the cam position sensor code (P1531) and misfires are all on one bank, often a indication of a wiring or harness connector issue in a DIY mechanical. And if he uses the Durametric to read the before and after sensor curves, especially on Bank 1, we would see if the DME actually is seeing the sensors working in real time. If the senor is a "flat line", the DME is blind to it and the zero voltage readings are real.

Please do not double post, it is against forum rules.

John, the OP did confirm there's voltage (0.5v) to the precat sensors (harness side) multiple times hence the challenge. I understand that, but as the Durametric system is looking at them from the DME's perspective there still is no voltage being read, so they are effectively dead to the DME. Without the reference signal differential between the pre and post cat sensors, the system literally does not know what to do next. I would start tracing the harness from the sensors towards the DME, looking for damage, pinched wires, etc. The DME has to see voltage at both sensors to control the mixture. I'd also like to see the Durametric reproduce the pre and post cat voltage curves: If the system is not generating the two different voltage curves, the fuel mixture is basically out of the DME's control.

Guys, not to sound pedantic, or like a broken record, but as long as there is no voltage to the two O2 sensor, fussing with other items is not going to get the car running any better. The O2 sensors have to get power and be functional for the car to have any chance of running correctly; their operation is critical to controlling the fuel trims.

Not in your car, and for a very simple reason: Your fuel tank and intake system are plastic, and the rest of the system is flooded with fuel at all times.

That is weird, it should use a 6 point 26MM deep socket.

Not on your car. That is correct, but only for later models than yours (2005 987/997 and later). The later car's bearings can only go in one way so that the wheel speed sensors work correctly. On the newer cars that have integrated ABS sensor wheels into the bearing, you need to make sure that the sensor side goes next to the sensor itself Most bearings come marked in some fashion, but you can also obtain a $15 tool that will tell you which side is which: It's ATE part number 760130, and is sold by Amazon.com and others for this exact purpose.

For years, one of the most common questions we get asked is knowing when to change the brake and clutch hydraulic fluids, other than using the "every two years" rule of thumb. This is especially important to those that track their cars regularly and tend to beat up on the fluid long before the normal flushing cycle and find they are getting "spongy" brake pedals on track days. While we use a hand held refractometer at the shop to spot test the condition of the fluids, these testers are fairly expensive (over $100), which puts them outside the budget for all but the most ardent car owners. Recently, OTC tools released an inexpensive fluid tester (OTC 4598 Brake Fluid Tester) that seems to be both reasonably accurate when compared to the refractometer, and reasonably priced (around $24 on Amazon): This battery operated device is simple to use, just press the on button at the end, and dip the two metal prongs into the fluid in the system reservoir. It uses a five step LED display reading between 0% and 4% moisture content to quickly give you a reading of the current condition of the fluid.

I've not seen any of them leak, but we have changed a few while doing other maintenance items that required pull the cam covers. They do take a "crushed" shape when compressed and could leak if the cover was loosened or removed and they were not replaced for some reason.

Mmm... I think 2005 will have the metal tubes (different design). How many spark plug tubes have oil? How much oil? This sounds very odd for these later model engines. Loren, the part I was thinking of is 996-104-203-00, which sits under the cam cover and seals to the plug tube on the 2005 997.1 engines.

Cam covers need to come off, which requires special tooling.

OK, you should be able to replace tubes and seals.

Depends upon the year of the car; which one are we talking about here?

NPR, or Nippon Piston Rings, are suppliers to several of the Asian brands like Honda and Toyota. While I am sure they are a good manufacturer, I would not be skimping on such a critical item as Porsche uses it own alloy in the cylinder liners and I have no idea how compatible the rings would be or how well the NPR rings will hold up.

If the alternator is only putting out 12.5V, it is definitely bad as you should be around 13.5 to 14.5V. I would also have them check the battery and starter cables which are notoriously problematic on these cars. Porsche has released updated cables to address the problem.

You can start by posting in the correct forum: http://www.renntech.org/forums/topic/14539-lost-radio-code-post-your-request-here/