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JFP in PA

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Everything posted by JFP in PA

  1. Im trying to picture what you mean by the fork coming off the ball pin. What is the ball pin? The "ball pin" is the pivot on the opposite end of the fork from the clutch slave, the term is the name Porsche gave to it.
  2. Yes, not to sound pedantic, but the car most probably has too much oil in it, which is not a good thing. Check the oil level, if it is over filled, try changing the oil filter which will drain about 1/2 quart out. If that is not enough to get it to the correct level, dump the oil and start over.
  3. Glad you found it, I expected there was an air leak in one or more of the systems, and the AOS is always a favorite leak point.
  4. It is possible that the throw out bearing is no longer connected the fork, or the fork itself has come off the ball pin, I'd start there.
  5. You may still have oil in the intake system, which is slow to come out, and a drop creates a cloud of smoke. As RFM stated, do not run the oil level high, that will only worsen your problems.
  6. Nothing beats a good sudsing with a quality car wash formulated not to remove the wax (P21 or Sonnax) followed by a rinse with a lot of clear water. Everything else is just push the dirt around, which is a recipe for scratches.
  7. Two points: You must use the one that is correct for your car (the turbo cars run the Metzger engine which is totally different than the M96), and I would check with the dealer to make sure you get any updated part number.
  8. It sounds like the ground strap is not only loose, but is showing signs of corrosion. Time for a new one, being sure to clean off the contact point where it bolts on as well.
  9. The Porsche OEM rotors (Brembo or Zimmerman) are pretty good units, but as mentioned can wear much faster with harder compound pads. People have tried just about everything out there (cryro treated rotors, dimpled or grooved rather than cross drilled, etc.) but I have not really seen a major advantage of one type over the other from a wear rate consideration.
  10. That is the one, always fun to get at.
  11. As mentioned earlier, even Porsche recognized the ground straps and other cables were problematic, they are common weak point on these cars. Replacing a questionable cable is always a good idea, they cause no end of issues (codes, strange MIL lights with no basis, poor hot starts, diming lights, weird audio issues, etc.). We have found that just replacing the questionable cables is sufficient to putting an end to the problems; we have also never had to add any extra cables.
  12. OK, let's go from the basics: Bank 1 is the passenger's side of the car. 97-99 2.5L engines did not have pre cats, only the three way unit (the bigger one to the rear of the system). So ignoring the fact that the right hand system in the diagram shows a pre cat (item #2), the forward O2 sensor would be located where item #35 is in the pipe. Requires a 22MM wrench or O2 sensor socket to remove.
  13. #36 is a chassis ground strap, which unfortunately is not accessible from underneath the car. To get at it from above requires pulling some components from the engine, such as part of the intake system.
  14. They are not the same; Optima has a patent on the spiral wound cell design (AKA the "six pack" shape), which is the core of its claims for superior vibration resistance and longer life expectancy.
  15. Interesting testing sequence; that said, your alternator voltage looks too low at times, which is indicative of a weak voltage regulator or diodes. I would pull the alternator and have it load tested at either an alternator repair shop, or a parts outlet that do these tests for free, if for no other reason than to eliminate it. You also have cable issues based upon your measurement of 0.7 ohms (this test should have been run with the cable ends disconnected so you are only looking at the cables), the cable resistance is also too high, which is a very common phenomenon on these cars (if memory serves, Porsche released a TSB on the subject as well as updated parts). Cable resistance should be much lower: The resistance, R, of a length of wire is described by the expression: [*]R = ρL/A where [*]ρ = resistivity of the material composing the wire,L = length of the wire, andA = area of the conducting cross section of the wire. On that basis, a new "0" AWG battery cable would have a measured resistance level of 0.09 ohms over a length of 1000 feet, you are seeing 0.7 ohms across a couple of feet.
  16. Two things to consider about switching to pads with longer life expectancy: First, they tend to be much noisier than the OEM style pads due to the harder pad compound, Second, longer wearing pads tend to be harder on the rotors and wear them faster. Except for track use, we tend to stay away from harder pad compounds as they tend to lead to more customer complaints on the street.
  17. Which "screws" are you referring to, the torque convert to flex plate bolts?
  18. Should pop off; sometimes it needs some encouragement with a trim tool that is shaped like a "Y".
  19. Be sure to secure the converter to the trans while removing it (bit of wire between the converter and a bell housing bolt hole will do the trick) lest it come off the trans while tilting the gearbox. If you drop and dent one of these things, it is toast.....
  20. P0134 is for a lack of activity on that sensor, either a dead sensor or a harness issue. I seriously doubt the car will pass inspection with that code. This should help with location:
  21. The best way to determine if a cat is toast is by looking at the O2 sensor voltages before and after the cat, if the sensor voltage after the cat remains fairly constant while the voltage for the sensor before the cat swings back and forth, the cat is good. If the voltage for the sensor after the cat follows the pattern for the sensor before it, the cat is gone:
  22. PCM is "Porsche Communications Managament" system, or the nav, stereo, and cell phone, hence why I don't think it is involved. Your MAF really is not doing much until 3,500-4,000RPM, so it is rarely involved in these codes. While MAF's can and do fail, most people do not know how to correctly test them before doing so, and they are often changed without testing them first. What you need to be doing is getting the car scanned with a Porsche specific system (PIWIS, PST II, Durametric) all of which can see the MAF and other sensor values in real time, quickly eliminating those functioning correctly from contention. You would need a proper fuel pressure test tool to check the volume delivery and pressure as well. As for backyard checks, look over the connections, hoses, oil filler cap, AOS system, etc. looking for signs of a leak point. You would be surprised at how often these problems come down to a small hose that fell off its connection, or one that has rubbed a small hole in itself.
  23. Well, so much for "generic write-ups"; these two codes are indicative of the car running overly lean on both banks. It is not O2 sensor related, and it is rarely MAF related; and what connection it could possibly have to the PCM software totally eludes me, but more likely it is because of an air leak into the intake system or poor fuel delivery (volume and/or pressure). Possible fault causes:- Incorrect signal from MAF sensor- Intake air system leaking- Fuel pressure too low- Volume supply of fuel pump too low- Fuel injectors fouled- PCV valve leaks- Cap of oil filler neck not closed correctly or seal is damagedLooks like you have an air leak...
  24. Did you test and/or replace the cables for the battery as you were advised to do in another post? If they are bad, which is common on the 996, no battery (even a higher CCA unit) is going to make the situation better. That said, a 34R Optima will fit.
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