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Everything posted by JFP in PA

  1. HI, Its looks like I have a leak similar to this. Does anyone have any experience of changing the tensioner seal. How do you lock the cams? What tooling is needed thanks Jetbox $600-$800 depending upon the source…………
  2. We have the LN stat is several customer cars; I also have it in my personal car as well. The car will run quite a bit cooler at any given ambient temp than it would with the OEM stat (which only begins to open in the 185-190F range, but is not fully open until 205-210F), and will cool back down to a lower temp if it gets hot, such as being stuck in traffic for a bit (be aware that the dash gauge is notoriously inaccurate). One of the biggest advantages it brings is that it lowers the oil temps as well, which is good for both the engine and the oil. I would ignore the Porsche dealership's comme
  3. Oil level reading comes from a sensor in the oil sump. Either the sensor has gone bad, or the wiring pigtail leading out from it has become disconnected...........
  4. I doubt it, but it will create more oil leaks than you ever imagined could exist............... Suggest you give Jake Raby a call, he once described pulling one of these that went flying around the shop when it released; seems to take a lot of force to dislodge it.
  5. I'm not sure you are going to be happy about this, but, if your cam timing is off too much, the computer will see an incongruity between the crankshaft position and the cam position, which will make the DME confused, throwing off the injector pulse and ignition systems. If the car was able to run, it would promptly throw multiple codes relating to the position sensors; without being able to start it, the DME may not be getting to that point yet. Do you have a scanner capable of reading "real time" data from the DME? That should capture the position sensors issues as well............ In
  6. Both were customer's cars, both appeared to be IMS bearing failures that led to other destruction; very similar to the earlier cars. One was under warranty, the other was not. Basically, if your engine has an IMS, you are at some level of risk; I have no knowledge of if the later cars fail any less or more, but they do fail. There is a reason why the new 9A1 is a “shaft-less” design engine……………….
  7. My thoughts on the subject are very simple: The belt is cheap, but often not easy to find (a lot of auto parts stores don't seem to carry it in stock). If it breaks, you are stuck; it the M96 overheats, you could be screwed. Why take chances with it? Considering the potential downsides to a belt failure, we change them more frequently than the factory suggests. Pull the belt, check over the pulleys for noise and "wobble". It is simple and quick to do. If you find that the water pump or idlers are loose or noisy, take action and fix it. The idlers can be rebuilt (check the archives
  8. A thought to keep in mind about the poly rib belt: It is one of the cheapest parts on the car (~$25 for the OEM unit), and it can be changed in about 20 min. by a total novice with simple hand tools. It also can both strand you and do a lot of damage to your engine if it fails. Change it regularly, and keep the old one in the car as a spare, just in case (they are not the easiest thing to find in a hurry)……….
  9. The car can run (albeit poorly) with the cam off one tooth on the chain. But you have to remember that these are "interference engines", meaning that at some point in the system rotation, two (or more) components (valves and pistons) enter the same physical space. Obviously, you do not want that to happen at the same time. And, with VarioCam, the actual timing setting is changing while the engine is running. If the cam timing is off too much, the results are disastrous. The real issue is that you have four cams that all need to be working in concert with each other. I know of only on
  10. First of all, what is in there is not a "timing belt", it is a poly rib belt that runs all the accessory drives. Make sure you have all the bolts out, and then give it a firm tug (there is a seal on the back that tends to cause it to stick to the bulkhead)............
  11. Trying to do this by trial and error is going to be a nightmare. First of all, there are several speical tools required to time (or "allocate" in "Porsche speak") the cams. Below is the "basic" cam tool set, and none of this stuff is cheap ($600-800 for what you see). You also need to be very careful, if the timing goes off just a tad too much, pistons start hitting valves, and you have a new boat anchor..............
  12. A common volt meter is always a good starting point; however, a load tester can do the same things as a volt meter, as well as test the diodes and regulator under high current draw conditions, and can also put the battery thru its paces as it would during an attempt to start the car; things that a volt meter cannot do......... The load tester is a much more flexible diagnostic tool.
  13. It is a common Bosch unit, used in several makes, including MB, Audi, VW and Porsches. Check dealers and auto parts outlets............
  14. Check the level of the battery's charge with a cheap hydrometer (less than $5) from and autoparts store; and check the level of your electrical system's draw on the battery without the car running (should only be a couple of mAmps).
  15. The best way to evaluate this is with a battery load tester. This is a device that can check the battery's static voltage (should be around 12.5V or so) as well as the system voltage with the enigne running (should be ~14.5V). Its biggest advantage is that it can apply a 130A load on the battery which simulates trying to start the car (you apply the load for 15 sec. and what the battery's voltage output). We recently had a 911 in the shop that was doing exactly what you describe, a dealer had recommended a new alternator, battery, and starter were needed (read big $). The battery static vo
  16. In good shape, the engine should compression test numbers in the low 140's (PSIG)...................
  17. 8-12% would be an extremely tight engine, with that kind of mileage 15-20% would be realistic; anything over 30% would be an issue.....
  18. No. While it could be condensation from sitting, it could also be a sign of oil/coolant mixing, which could be anything from a failing oil cooler to a cracked head. Proceed with caution.....................
  19. Rather than depend upon the "approved list", which periodically adds and removes products without explanation; as well as "unapproves" products that were once golden, but now are no longer acceptable (again, without explanations), you will still find your self without much guidance. There have been far too many discussions on this topic, some become quite heated (a lot like attempting to have civil discourse on politics or religion). I've already been down this road too many times to want to wonder through that mine field yet again. If you would like to know which brands and weights I
  20. Have you run a load test on the battery with the Snap On MicroVAT ?
  21. I guess I've been hanging around the BITOG site too much and assumed everyone was familiar with the terminology. UoA= Used oil analysis. There are several commercial labs that run an extensive battery of tests on oil to help you understand how they are doing under use. ACEA= European Automobile Manufacturer's Association (http://www.acea.be/index.php) based in Brussels. They represent all the gas and diesel vehicle manufacturers in the EU, and set the standards for various technical areas, including oils. What is unique about their oil rating protocols is that you must become a member to
  22. +1 On Loren's comments. We have had more than one M96 flat bedded in with cooling systems full of partially gelled crud as the result of mixing coolants. Not all brands seem to do it, but when it happens, be prepared for hours of work to clear the system, or paying a lot of $ to have a shop do it. We handle these on a strict "time and materials" pricing basis because you cannot estimate the time needed. Once you see the bill for trying to save some money on antifreeze, the OEM coolant at $24 a gallon is a real bargin..............
  23. A dealer or an indy with a PIWIS unit........................
  24. Mike, I bought a 2001 2.7 Boxster last summer, and although it was shifting fine, I decided to changer the transmission oil. I went with the Amzoil 75/90 and ever since the car is difficult to to get into 1st and 2nd gear until the engine warms up a little. It's a little annoying, but I'm living with it. Next time I'll go with the Mobile One. I'm assuming that's what was in there before, but all I know is that the car had been maintained by the porsche dealer up until I bought it. Geoff The factory fill is a unique full synthetic product, produced to Porsche specs, which has no
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