Jump to content

Welcome to RennTech.org Community, Guest

There are many great features available to you once you register at RennTech.org
You are free to view posts here, but you must log in to reply to existing posts, or to start your own new topic. Like most online communities, there are costs involved to maintain a site like this - so we encourage our members to donate. All donations go to the costs operating and maintaining this site. We prefer that guests take part in our community and we offer a lot in return to those willing to join our corner of the Porsche world. This site is 99 percent member supported (less than 1 percent comes from advertising) - so please consider an annual donation to keep this site running.

Here are some of the features available - once you register at RennTech.org

  • View Classified Ads
  • DIY Tutorials
  • Porsche TSB Listings (limited)
  • VIN Decoder
  • Special Offers
  • OBD II P-Codes
  • Paint Codes
  • Registry
  • Videos System
  • View Reviews
  • and get rid of this welcome message

It takes just a few minutes to register, and it's FREE

Contributing Members also get these additional benefits:
(you become a Contributing Member by donating money to the operation of this site)

  • No ads - advertisements are removed
  • Access the Contributors Only Forum
  • Contributing Members Only Downloads
  • Send attachments with PMs
  • All image/file storage limits are substantially increased for all Contributing Members
  • Option Codes Lookup
  • VIN Option Lookups (limited)

JFP in PA

Moderators
  • Posts

    8,566
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    185

Everything posted by JFP in PA

  1. Thanks for the reply. Disappointing to hear no improvement. I understood they offered better pedel pressure when brakes were hot at track events. We will see. NASA-SE event in two weeks. Still fun to work on the car. They do improve pedal pressure and feel, particularly under hard braking, but many think that SS lines will actually improve how the car brakes, which they cannot do. Response tends to be subjective, most like the change...............
  2. While it may involve the MAF, more likely culprits are either vacuum leaks or a fuel pressure/volume issue. Both codes indicate that the air fuel ratio is on the lean side and the DME cannot richen it, so I'd start with looking for vacuum leaks (the most common cause) first. You can still pull and clean the MAF as well as that never hurts.
  3. Kind of throw’s a new light on all of the supposedly MAF related problems and codes when someone takes it out and leaves it on the bench and drives the car off with no apparent ill effects……………….
  4. All manufacture’s build a dud from time to time, and the original price range or make does not matter. Regardless of the make, from time to time we see one car that simply breaks everything, sometimes twice, while others of the same vintage seem to have no problems at all. “Fecal matter occurs……”
  5. The image below should help you with which bank is which. P0430 is for cylinders 4-6: As for the O2 sensors, they can be tested by themselves to make sure they are working. If they are good, or after you replace any faulty ones, clear all codes and road test the car for a prolonged period. If the P0430 code returns, your cat is toast...........
  6. We have seen late MY '05's that have the "non serviceable" large diameter bearing. All MY '06's (or any earlier MY that had a replacement engine installed after 1/06) would definitely have the larger bearing, which requires total engine disassembly to replace.
  7. Actually, Porsche transitioned to the larger diameter IMS bearing in late 2005, all 2006 (and on) cars or replacement engines have the larger bearing as well.
  8. Anywhere from "not at all" to "very", depending upon the source of the intermix. It can come from a failing oil cooler (easy to replace and parts are about $200 or so), to either a popped sealing plug in the head, a bad head gasket, or a cracked head. The latter three are on the more expensive side..................
  9. Transmission cases rarely fail, and are available as parts, but they are expensive. That said, “JB Weld” is not going to work, to fix your case, it needs to be disassembled and heliarc/TIG welded by a specialty welding shop that knows what they are doing……..
  10. Actually, I'd start by getting the codes read and reporting back on what you find.............
  11. You can safely and effectively change the IMS bearing to the LN version without any camshaft locking tools. Wayne Dempsey of Pelican Parts has come up with an ingenious way of locking the sprocket on the IMS tube (which is behind the IMS flange,just on the other side of the engine case) by using three 25mm long set screws that get substituted for the IMS flange bolts. Those set screws press against the face of the sprocket (which is inside the engine, on the other side of the case) and prevent the sprocket from moving (or altering the timing). Simple, effective and fool proof, and you don't even have to find TDC and use a locking pin. Regards, Maurice. Maurice, while Wayne's idea should work well on a five chain motor, I still think that not locking a three chain engine at TDC and using at least one set of cam locking tools is running a significant risk. The TDC tool can be fabricated for a couple of bucks at most in materials (5/16 metal rod and a drawer knob for the other end), and the LN "install kit" has the TDC tool and the cam locking tool as well at a reasonable price. I would also bet that there is a good market for a used LN install kit once you are done.......
  12. As long as the connector makes good electrical contact and is weather tight, you should be fine.............
  13. Not uncommon for the in car system so show low just after the car has been run. Let it sit on a level surface for a bit, say 30 min., and then re-check it, it should be back to where it was when you got done changing the oil.
  14. Two possibilities: Your cap is bad (those ending in “00” are known to be a problem, “04” is the latest revision) You have a trapped air pocket in the cooling system, which is not a good thing. You need to either run a vacuum or atmospheric bleed (run a search for the procedures).
  15. The first kit looks like a Baum B9612K, which is typically about $1K, so it is a pretty good deal.
  16. Calibration is only required if you want to pass inspection and do not want to constantly have an annoying MIL light from the stability management system; so, yes, it typically is necessary and does require the use of a PIWIS system.
  17. The Porsche tool 9656 is nothing more than a 5/16 metal rod with a knob on one end and a slight bevel cut on the other end. Cheap and easy to make for yourself.
  18. You are short on options here; Porsche does not sell the connectors or sections of the harness, only the whole thing. You can try contacting Porsche wrecking yards to see if they can help, or simply make up your own connectors with stuff from somebody that makes weather proof connectors like Weather Pack
  19. Because their focus changed from engine protection to Cafe fuel consumption figures..........
  20. Depends upon what you are trying to accomplish; yes there are cheap, more universal alternatives, some starting around $40. But these units cannot run all of the Porsche specific diagnostics, and cannot clear many of the common trouble codes (air bags, PSM, ABS, etc.) that the brand specific Durametric can. “Speed cost money; how fast do you want to go?”
  21. Totally up to you. What you need to consider is that your road speed in that range is going to be around 70 MPH (+/- depending upon wheel/tire combo) and that a large number of owners are blissfully unaware of the harmonic zones and cruise for long periods at those speeds everyday without a problem. Track usage cars buzz past this range dozens of times every hour, again without issue. The reality of the IMS issue is that, yes, they are somewhat prone to catastrophic failures, but currently at an unknown rate. What is known is that more frequent oil changes and usage of heavier weight oils seem to help. However, if the level of concern is high enough to cause you to alter how you use the car, or loss of sleep, there is also a known and proven fix for the problem…………….
  22. All engines have some RPM zones that create harmonics; on the M96/97 it happens around 3,000 to 3,200 RPM. While there is some limited data that appears to indicate that it is not good for the IMS bearing, the fact that a lot of factory IMS bearing make it beyond 100,000 miles says the day to day risk exposure may not be great.
  23. Many extended warranties turn out to not be worth the paper they are written on, or at best very difficult to enforce, so be very careful before you turn over your cash, you may find out you would have been better off saving it as a contingent for future repairs instead……..
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.