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JFP in PA

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Everything posted by JFP in PA

  1. Threads like this make me happy I don’t have any kids; at least any that I know of……
  2. Distilled water is the purest, DI water still has some containments in it, purified, has even more. For a buck a gallon, go with the distilled, it will also give you the best cooling system life...........
  3. True, but not the point; they are saying they cannot read the DME because of an aftermarket stereo system..............................which is totally ridiculous.
  4. I'd still like to know exactly what the Hell your aftermarket stereo has to do with their inability to read the DME...................
  5. What the dealer's techs should do, and what the actually do, are often quite different. Use distilled water, costs about a buck a gallon at the supermarket.
  6. For many years, all US spec Porsche's came with the Euro lighter in them from the factory. This caused no end of issues with battery maintainers, radar detectors, cell phones and anything else plugged into the cigarette lighter, because the US charging cord ends (what I believe you are calling the connector) were way too loose and even fell out of the dash socket. As all the cars (I'd have to check on the trucks) used the same lighter assembly, Porsche made available a US "sized" replacement socket that goes into the dash, and a suitable sized lighter to fit it. With the new socket in the dash, the US sized cord end connectors now fit correctly, ending the issue. As the parts are OEM, the dash looks exactly the same after the conversion. Costs about $20 US.
  7. The advantage of using distilled water rather than tap is in the fact that distilled water is free of any impurities or minerals, which starts the cooling system out on the best possible footing. Using tap water typically shortens the coolant's "life expectancy" as the contaminants break down or react with the coolant's corrosion preventative additives, reducing their effectiveness. As for the "wizz-bang" vacuum device, RennTech's Amazon "store" sells them for about $100, and they work on any liquid cooled engine, making it a worthwhile addition to the tool box...........
  8. A. my car is US spec B. PET shows only one type of socket for all markets C. size of plug and socket was not an issue but fuses and connectors were A. The US cars came with Euro spec lighters in them until fairly recently. B. We use Porsche parts 997-652-101-00-A05 (lighter) and 996-652-102-10 (socket) for 986/987/996/997's that demonstrate this problem. C. The fuse blows because the plug is moving around in the socket, sometimes shorting.
  9. Simple problem with an easy fix: The Ctek has a US spec lighter plug on it, your car has a European spec lighter socket, they are two different sizes (your socket is slightly larger than the Ctek plug). Either swap out the Ctek plug or your lighter socket for the matching sized unit (we do this all the time for early Porsches up to about 2003, which have the same problems. After 03 they came with US spec sockets in them). We buy the US spec lighter socket from Porsche and pop out the old one, takes about 5 min. and cost about $20 US........
  10. For some reason, a couple of states have done so. So then you order it online, and they ship it in; so much for legislative actions...................
  11. I would not use a light weight solid flywheel on any M96 that has not been fully internally harmonically balanced; the dual mass OEM unit is the sole source of torsional and harmonic dampening in the drive line...............
  12. This is only an issue with mixing different formulations of coolant, i.e. mixing G12 with non-G12 coolant. Mixing different brands of non-phosphate G12 coolant is not an issue. Correct, but as I said, most decent Porsche techs are aware that there have been problems, so they will only use the OEM product, assuming (perhaps incorrectly) that is what is already in the car. Problem is that if you've already filled the system with something that isn't compatible, a simple top up leads to an instant headache. In my shop, unless we know the history of the car, we only add distilled water, never coolant mix.
  13. The major issue with mixing coolants is the gelation issue. The OEM coolant is very good stuff, consistently demonstrates a very long life with excellent performance. Unfortunately, it does not always get along well with other coolants, leading to gelation. When that happens, it is a major league mess to clean the entire system out if no damage has occurred; but often the gel plugs some of the smaller passages in the heads, leading to cracking, or worse. In reality, if the car is totally drained and flushed before refilling, just about any suitable coolant will do a decent job. The only problem is the next time the car is in the shop; if the coolant level is low, the tech will reach for the OEM coolant jug on the shelf to top it up because he knows coolant mixing is an issue; but what he is doing is potentially a problem, only he does not know that………….
  14. I do not believe any Boxsters had Direct Injection prior to the “S” in 2009….
  15. You can do this with a second battery, just be careful, 12V batteries carry one Hell of a lot of amperage and tend to be unforgiving .......... As for the battery, check out Mike Focke's website, he covers your options in detail. Myself, I'm an Optima fan (sealed, requires no venting), currently running four of them, one of which is approaching its 10th birthday............. Mike's website
  16. This has to be this week’s “dumbest dealer explanation for a possible IMS issue”…………..
  17. In general, most Boxsters do not experience dire problems from disconnecting the battery, most of the real issues are with 911 variants, with the obvious exception of Boxsters running the dash clusters out of 911's. That said, you can use a good quality maintainer like the Ctek that has a "supply" setting mode which will keep voltage on the system while removing the battery. If you use one, just remember that your + battery cable will remain "hot" while disconnected, so do not short it to ground..............
  18. +1 on Loren's comments. If you are not qualified to do so, doing your own PPI is somewhere between dangerous and suicidal..............
  19. Skyler, over on the old PPBB did a good step by step for the 986 (with photos), should be similar: 986 front bumper removal
  20. Actually, I'd go the other way around; your water pump may have came apart (on the track, if memory serves), and the bits blocked some of the water passages to your head and more importantly, the oil cooler area, and that is probably what started the fatal chain of events leading to your rod failure. Not that uncommon, this is why Jake is suggesting changing out the water pump every three years, even if it is working fine........... Getting all the bits out is a major pain, probably will require total disassembly unless you are very lucky.
  21. Considering that 10W-X oils were until recently recommended for use in the arctic, I have never understood the need for 0W-anything, particularly in temperate climates. First, based upon years of UoA’s, I have no faith in Mobil 1 products. It has been all downhill since Exxon took over. I would suggest looking at Castrol Syntec 10W-40, it is what we use.
  22. Because of the war the OEM harness is routed and mounted in the car (wires often combine with other non audio wiring while passing thru the body), I seriously doubt that you are going to be able to simply attach one wire to another and pull them through the car. Realistically, you are going to have to either pull sections of the interior out to trace the existing system, or run all new, by passing and leaving the OEM stuff in place. All depends upon how anal you want to be about wiring.
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