JFP in PA

The low pressure seems fine, 2-5 bar, the high pressure blows out at 5 bar. The line pressures vary with ambient temps, but using 68F (20C) as a reference point, you should have 1.4 to 1.7 Bar on the low side; 9 to 15 Bar on the high side. Without the correct pressure differential, the system cannot operate correctly or cool properly. The vent valve on the compressor is designed to open if the system over pressures, so it may be the source of your issues. Unless the system is being overfilled, I'd have to say the compressor is the problem as I do not think the valve is available by itself. A couple of additional thoughts: Are you sure that additional oil was not added to the replacement compressor? Reason I ask is that replacement units come pre-filled with oil from the factory; adding more oil will overfill the unit (common mistake). You are supposed to pull the oil plug and remove approximately 80 cc of oil from the unit to compensate for oil already in the remaining components (lines, expansion valve, fluid tank, etc.), assuming you are not changing them as well. Doing this will leave approximately 120 cc of oil in the compressor. Too much oil will cause the compressor vent to blow off to prevent the system from creating a hydraulic lock. If you are unsure of how much oil is in the system, it might be a good idea to empty the unit, measuring how much you get out, and then start over. The system is rated for 195 cc, +/- 15 cc for the entire system (you have to adjust for the oil that remains in the other components). If you are sure the correct amount of oil is in the system, I would pull all the refrigerant out, and carefully recharge the unit to the correct pressure differential for the ambient temp; if the system still vents, you need a compressor.

"On a side note..... how involved is "re-allocation" ? I'm assuming it is done on the top end? " Camshaft "allocation" is an overly complicated process on the M96/97. In a nutshell, it requires holding the four cams in a fixed position in relation to the crankshaft, and then installing the cam drives (the OEM service manual takes about 15 or so pages to describe how to do it and the fixtures and tooling required, depending upon the model year). Not for the faint of heart; and it requires some pretty specific tooling. It is hard enough on and engine stand, a nightmare with the engine in the car. If one or more of the chains was damaged when it jumped, or if the sprocket was damaged, you are far better off pulling the engine................

Yes, there are multiple places (sprockets) where this can happen, depending upon if it is a three or five chain motor. I think you need to pull the cam plugs and look at where the cams are in relation to each other. One of the biggest issues you face is that the engine has only one position (TDC) where the slots in the cams line up, and with the IMS removed, you cannot rotate the engine. You may be forced to have to pull the cam covers, remove the cams (to unload the valves), and then try to get everything back to the TDC position, then start reassembling. But at this point, you do not know if it will even run (or for how long) in its current state. At this juncture, I really think you need to stop, bore scope the engine to see if it shows signs for piston to valve contact, which is a common phenomenon when an IMS dies. If that is in fact the case, you need to pull this engine and take the heads off anyway, so going through the cam allocation set up would be a total waste of time as it will need to be done a second time when the engine is reassembled outside the car, if it can be reassembled........

What high and low line pressures are you seeing when this happens?

Here are the values I'm used to seeing:

Being careful not to rotate the motor may not matter, the engine internals move due to the spring pressures on the cylinders with any open valves trying to unload, and there will always be open valves. This is why the correct procedure is to lock the engine at TDC with a pin thru the front crank pulley, then pull the cam plugs and attach the cam locking fixture before releasing the tensioners. I think you are already in trouble. I have had a couple cars flat bedded into the shop after their owners pulled the tensioners without locking the motor down; the result was always the same, the cam timing had moved and needed to be "re-allocated" in Porsche speak........ Three chain motors are more susceptible to this problem than five chains; but the five chains can jump time as well.

That is going to be expensive.................

The data is from the cam and crank position sensors, and comes to the Durametric software from the DME.

Not really. I do need to ask if you locked the engine at TDC, and locked down the cams before pulling the tensioners?

I'd still want to know why you are seeing 25 degrees of cam deviation, I have never seen that before......................... Both the intake and exhaust cams should have a straight notch in the ends, used by the fixture to hold the cams while working on the engine; these notches should line up on both cams if everything is correct.

Take your time; when doing one of these, there is no advantage in trying to rush it.

To be sure we are looking at the same values, this is what I was referring to on an M96 in a Boxster, which I think is a bit different view than you posted (sorry for the link, but RennTech would not permit me to post it for some reason): screen shot I think the view I am used to gives a better view of what the cams are doing, and you can clearly see the cam deviation values I was referring to. According to the OEM service manuals, these deviation values should not be outside +/- 6 degrees, unless something has come adrift in the cam drive. An additional thing you should look at it to trigger the VarioCam system using the software, just to be sure one of the solenoids isn't sticking.

I do not understand the value you posted, you should be able to see cam shaft deviation values in degrees, the values should be between +/- 6 degrees (often something like -3.8 or + 1.5); if it is reading "25" degrees of crankshaft, you have jumped time...................

P1340 indicates that the cam allocation value (read timing) exceeded the upper limit on Bank #1. If you have the Durametric software, you can check the cam deviation values, they should be less than +/- 6 and steady at an idle; if they are, the engine is sound and the cams where they belong. If the values exceed +/- 6 degrees, I'd first stop using the car until someone with the knowledge and tooling can look at the cam timing. If the cam deviation values are swinging back and forth at an idle, you have something very loose in the cam drive, possibly including the IMS bearing. If that is the case, consider your self very lucky, most engines do not live long enough in this condition to be observed doing this, but it is still salvageable as long as it is not run until it is fixed...............

True, but an OBD II scanner that captures PID data (real time sensor data) will see a questionable CPS that has not thrown a code......

If memory serves, you Nav system will reset itself after short time. Pulling the fuses and or battery cable makes it act goofy for a bit, but it self corrects.

I learned this trick from Jake Raby, and it works. From time to time, you encounter an OEM IMS bearing that falls apart when you try to extract it, leaving the outer race behind. You need to very carefully cut the outer race with the Dremel, usually in more than one spot, in order to get it out. Strong magnets and a good shop vac collect most, if not all, of the debris during the process, pulling the sump cover and flushing clean oil downwards get the rest. While not pretty, the method works; and I have yet to see an alternative way that is better.

We normally recommend against using any additives, simply because they are not necessary in these cars, and because you never know how they will react with the coolant mix. The problem with using anything other than distilled water (about a $1 a gallon at any supermarket) is that it adds dissolved minerals to the system, which react with the coolant mix, potentially shortening its life, or causing other issues such as the type of sediment you are encountering.

Intermixes are usually not limited to a small amount located in one area of the system only; usually, when there is an intermix issue, the coolant looks a lot like hot chocolate, which does not appear to be your case (judging by what I can see of the contents of the tank). But I do need to ask why you are using an aftermarket additive in a coolant mix that is very good on its own, but has a tendency to "not play well with others"; and why you are using "filtered water" when the spec is distilled water.......

Problem is that when the IMS begins to "wobble", the car often jumps cam timing, resulting in bent or broke valves, pistons, etc. At that point, spending anything on the IMS retrofit is a waste of money; the engine needs to either be pulled and rebuilt, or replaced as it is "non-serviceable". Before moving forward, we would pull the plugs and bore scope the engine to be sure you are not throwing good money at what is otherwise a boat anchor. If the engine shows any signs of piston/valve contact, you would be wasting your time and his money.

A couple of serious questions: What year was the new engine installed? Reason I ask is any replacement engine installed after 2005 has a unique "final solution" IMS bearing (has a 22MM center nut) that cannot be removed or replaced with the engine assembled (outer race is larger than the opening in the case). This looks like it failed while running; if it did, are you sure the engine is worth saving? Most are not...... If the engine is 2005 or earlier, and the engine is actually salvageable, you may need to very carefully cut the outer race in a couple places with a Dremmel tool using the smallest cut off wheel in order to get it out. This will require using a combination of magnets and a good shop vac to catch as much of the cutting debris as possible so it does not remain in the engine. This may be your only way to get it out, if you (and the engine) are up for it...........

To return to the original focus of this thread, namely the apparent sizing difference in the later third radiator kits hoses; a company named Precision Chassis Works came out with a sharp solution in the form of a machined "spud" which is welded into the OEM aluminum hard line, resulting in a permanent and leak proof solution: They sell the "spuds" for those with access/ability to weld aluminum, or offer finished lines for a bit more. Their site.......

Generally, these codes are related as they indicate an overly rich condition (P1123 for bank 1-3, P1125 for bank 4-6). Common issues are too much fuel pressure (possible fuel pressure regulator) or one or more injectors leaking. I'd also be concerned about your MAF value, 19.25 Kg/Hr seems like low air flow, more used to seeing around 29 Kg/Hr. You may want to carefully look at your intake system for blockages or constrictions, and perhaps give the MAF a cleaning.

Why not just look at the fuse rating for the circuit in your fuse panel.................... Because it's a lot easier to sit on my *** in the air conditioning than walk to the car parked outside in 110F heat and pull the panel off and look. I work in a tie and suit and was doing some e-shopping for a tire compressor. Why give a ****ty NON - answer? Because it was the correct one.......................... And being one of those that actually gets dirt under his nails fixing these cars for a living (in the heat), to my knowledge, all Cayenne’s have the same fuse rating on the lighter circuits, but I’ll let you enjoy the heat a little bit in order to find out what that rating is………..

Why not just look at the fuse rating for the circuit in your fuse panel....................