JFP in PA

I stand corrected.............

The elliptical opening was for a microphone component of the OEM phone system, rarely seen on these cars. The blanking insert is a favorite location for a small push button installed post delivery to operate a garage door opener, usually hidden under the dash. I’d start there……………

That flasher is the wrong style for your car, plus it "solves" a the problem by adding resistance ("load" in the posting) to the circuits; you can do this your self by simply adding appropriately sized (and much cheaper) resistors you can get a the local electronics hobby shop in the light wiring..............

I'm not sure how this chart is useful. First of all, the fuses are not responsible for the parasitic draw on the battery, the components on the circuit are. Secondly, you don't need a clamp probe to measure parasitic draw (current, measured in mA) which can easily be detected accurately by a $20 multi meter.....................

It is definitely not normal, I'd start by checking the other mounts to see if they look beat, I'd also connect a scanner with real time PID capture capabilities and run the car through the problem "zone" a couple of times to see what the sensors are saying........

TSB's are available to contributing members here, or you can try contacting your dealer. The CD would be a dealer item.

Technical Service Bulletin...........

Yes.

It does sound like an amp issue..........sorry for the bad pun!

DO NOT USE MOTORMEISTER! Do a quick internet search and you will ample find evidence of those that they have already screwed............. If you really want it done right, contact Jake Raby at Flat Six Innovations.

"CVMan", also known as CV Restorations (Jessup, MD) is one of many small local axle shops that typically start up rebuilding off road or ATV axles and then expand into the general automotive markets. Like alternator or radiator repair shops, they fill a market need for inexpensive local repair/rebuild for area mechanical shops. Like most similar operations, they keep costs down by selective sourcing of components, with a lot of the CV's and shafts coming from the Pacific Rim; usually China or Korea. For the general repair market, the stuff they turn out is acceptable. However, if you were to disassemble their units, and compare the components with some OEM units, specifically the ones built for use in performance vehicles, you start to see some glaring differences, ranging from the materials used, to the actual size of key components. For a Honda Civic, a Toyota Camry, or some other such vehicle, their stuff will probably be fine. Start talking about the axles in an LS6 Corvette, or a Porsche, and now there is no comparison; and the life expectancy of the aftermarket units quickly becomes suspect, a point born out by the number of cheap, aftermarket axles we have pulled with relatively low miles on them because the CV's were coming apart. As a shop owner, I cannot place the reputation of my business on low cost substitutes; my customers expect, and even demand quality. At the end of the day, it is your car and your money; so choose accordingly. The axle angle and abnormal CV boot wear is both a well know and documented issue on 6 speed Porsche's (the 5 speed cars do not suffer this issue). The axle angles under certain suspension conditions literally bind up the boots, as well as severely loading the CV's as well. Yes, it is a design issue. To my knowledge, there is no "specialty boot" available that will remedy this problem; it is mechanical in nature, so any boot material is going to be taxed to the limit, and prone to fail in less miles than you might expect. The issue with the surge tanks in all M96/97 cars was one of wall thickness and composition. Unfortunately, because Porsche is a low volume manufacturer, designs change slowly, and parts remain expensive. As the result, the plastic surge tank in a 2007 Cadillac, which is three to four times the size of the one in a Boxster, retails for less than one third of what the current Porsche unit sells for, and you can actually change it out in about 15 min. without getting particularly dirty in the process. No, my business is not in reselling aftermarket parts. For more than 35 years, we have specialized in the maintenance, repair, restoration, and modification of high performance street and race vehicles, including Porsches. From time to time, I take a moment to try and share some of the insight we have acquired over nearly four decades of "trying to fix them faster than our clients can break them"..................

Oh boy……………and no one on flea bay ever had any reason to deceive anyone, ever. Right................. Did it ever occur to you that someone selling parts for a Porsche anonymously on flea bay, from a non-descript source, at prices way below what the dealers pay for the real thing, has got to involve either serious cutting of corners somewhere or merchandise of a "questionable origin"? Jeez……………….. We have been approached by just about everyone pushing aftermarket driveline parts; every time one of two things happens: We ask them to bring representative sample of the part to the shop for us to see; and if they actually do, we usually have a good laugh and send them on their way. Or they tell us they will get back to us, and we never hear from them again……………. The is no such thing as a free lunch……………….

Low, and dubious........... "Had" two failures, or "only honored the warranty" for two failures? Not to cast aspersions, but I have absolutely no respect for aftermarket warranty firms, as most are renown for not paying out...............

What you can't see on the websites is the differences in quality. Pelican is probably selling OEM units, the rest are most likely Chinese made knock offs. We have had both in the shop at the same time, and there is absolutely no comparison; everything on the OEM unit is solid and well finished; not so much on the knock offs. If complete replacement OEM units are outside your budget, consider buying the OEM parts and rebuilding your original units; you will end up with something you can depend upon……………

3 & 4 are one syncro, 5 & 6 are another. Rather unusual for two different syncros to go bad at once. I'd still bet on the gear oil..............

Couple of points: The 997, which first showed up in 2005, is not immune to the IMS issue. Second, from late 2005 - early 2006, the M96 switched to a larger diameter IMS, which is still subject to the problem, but is so large in diameter that it cannot be retrofitted without a total engine tear down. As for aftermarket warranty/insurance, most are not worth the paper they are written on, so be very careful before you sign on to anything...............

The IMS retrofit was developed by LN Engineering out of Chicago, in conjunction with Flat Six Innovations in GA. For info, contact Charles Navarro at LN LN Engineering

Because either the switch or cable would be intermittent, diagnostic scans would not see it unless it happened during the test............... On the plus side, both the switch and the cable are low bucks items if they do need replacing............

Or a bad ignition switch..................

+1 on Loren's comments. We have looked at just about everything available, and consistently come back to the factory fill. Porsche uses very unusual specs for their choices, making them rather unique. While smaller "blenders" like Redline, Royal Purple and Amsoil typically all claim to have matching products, experience (and testing) has shown they do not. Several of the major oil companies have actually responded to question about their products by stating that, because of Porsche's unique specs, they have nothing suitable. A couple have gone as far as to state "use what the factory recommends". Considering what these gearboxes cost, that is not bad advice……………

When was the last time the gear box was serviced? And what gear oil is in it? We see this type of complaint when the gear oil is really beat, or someone has put the wrong type in the trans...........

Porsche thinks enough of the Stabil products (both the original red and the newer blue) that dealers are recommending them for regular use as well as storage.........

As the headlights are relatively high amperage, I'd also take a look at ground connections, including the battery............

Don't know, I have not read the article...............

It is adjustable; there are three of them in the set (#9599) that are used during engine assembly to simulate the hydraulic load (pretension) of the actual tensioners and chain guides while you set the cam timing (allocation) under static conditions for a new or rebuilt engine. Once the cams are allocated, you replace the tool with the real tensioners one at a time. If you did not use them, the cams would not be correct when the engine actually starts running........... By the time you have "one of everything" tooling for the M96, you are about $10K out of pocket................