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JFP in PA

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Everything posted by JFP in PA

  1. The big difference is that the extension shown above does increase the effective length of the torque wrench. As a result, the actual torque applied to the bolt will be higher than the setting on the torque wrench. The extension shown in the above picture is called a crowfoot extension, which can be handy when trying to torque hard-to-reach bolts. You must, however, use a formula to account for the length of the extension: wrench setting = desired torque x wrench length / (wrench length + extension length) For example lets say that the length of the torque wrench is 18 inches, and the length of the extension is 6 inches. The desired torque is 180 ft-lbs. Wrench setting = 180 x 18 / (18 + 6) = 180 x 18 / 24 = 135 ft-lbs. If the torque wrench is set to 135 ft-lbs, the actual torque applied to the bolt will be 180 ft-lbs.
  2. Only problem is that when I contacted Mobil 1's tech department, their email response was; "Currently, Mobil 1 does not supply a suitable gear oil for your application"............... Use the OEM stuff, which is a full synthetic...............
  3. Techron is an excellent product, we use it in our customer cars all the time. Keeps the injection system up to snuff with no unwanted side effects. You really only need to use it once a year.
  4. Try Googling "borescope rentals", those two are only the ones I've had experience with (Alice in Wonderland isn't the only one that has had to peer down the rabbit hole a time or two)..............
  5. I think you are going to have fun finding a bore scope small enough to go down the oil feed gallery. Most automotive bore scopes are small enough to fit thru a spark plug hole, but way too big for your purpose. May want to look at someone that rents testing equipemnt to the scientific community or tool and die makers, like Electro Rent or Advanced Inspection Technologies.............. AIT Electro Rent
  6. Unfortunately, that is not known to positively be the case to my knowledge. I've seen several claims that Audi/VW/Mercedes/BMW/other brands (choose one or more….) coolants are the same; what I have never seen is a lab analysis to support the claim….just suppositions………and and the associated potential risks.. Some have had good luck using non-OEM coolants, others have not been so lucky. Considering the consequences if you are wrong, why take the risk over a few bucks?
  7. From Ross Tech's website: "Porsche: Although Porsche SE and Volkswagen AG have taken steps to merge, Porsche still does diagnostics quite differently than VW so VCDS does not do OEM diagnostics on most Porsche systems. However, we've heard good things about Durametric's Diagnostic Tool for Porsche".
  8. The problem with bore scopes has always been "the smaller the probe diameter, the bigger te pice tag"..............
  9. The factory coolant is readily available for about $22-24/gal (retail) by a board sponsor (Sunset). It is a well known product that demonstrated excellent performance with no problems (as long as it isn't mixed with some of the aftermarket stuff that leads to gelling). Why would you bother looking for something else?
  10. 3M has a special product called "Plastic and Emblem Adhesive" that is used to glue metal and plastic emblems onto painted surfaces. Just about all the body shops use it, as do the OEM's. The product is #08061 and dries clear. Any autobody supply, as well as many NAPA stores carry it...............
  11. Another, and considerably closer soruce would be Carnewal in Belgium Carnewal
  12. Problem is that this setup will cause issues on newer cars (built after 1996) if it cuts power off to the DME (and if it does not, you still have power drain taking place), which will then lose anything the DME has learned, and will reset the DME's "I/M Readiness" mode, meaning the car will not pass inspection in most states as the emissions section will read "not ready" until the car has driven multiple cycles/miles. Charge and load test the battery; it is good, get and use a maintainer. It's one Hell of a lot cheaper than a $100+ device that creates more problems than you had to begin with………..
  13. The Tip is not unlike most any other automatic, the torque converter has to be unbolted from the flex plate and secured prior to pulling the box out, otherwise it is pretty much the same deal.In reality, you do not have to move the Tip away from the engine as much as a manual box, as the alignment lip on the converter is much shorter than the input spline on a manual gear box.
  14. To service the clutch or change out torque converters, you save a fair amount of time (and money) by just pulling the transmission. Does not matter if you are on a lift or jack stands, pulling the entire assembly is more involved and is usually not necessary unless there are complicating factors like all wheel drive units or a need to perform other work that becomes easier with the engine out……….
  15. This has been a general trend thought the automotive industry; in 1997, all Nissans had in-line filters from the factory, by 2004, almost none of them did, using a small filter that is integral to the in-tank fuel pump, but not serviceable separately. If it gets plugged, you install a new pump, just like the newer Porsches…………… The OEM’s collect data and figure out that they are changing plugged fuel filters at nearly the same mileage as fuel pumps, giving them onus to combine the two.
  16. Loren is correct; modern SLI (starting, lighting, ignition) batteries are better at reducing their rate of self discharge than they were years ago. The problem lies in the every increasing number of "convenience" items added to just about all cars these days (on-board computers, alarm systems, sound systems, navigation equipment, etc., etc.), all of which constantly draw low levels of current while the car is shut off. Standard "stand-by" current draw on these cars from the factory in in the range of 40-60 mA; aftermarket add-ons simply increase that load. We have seen the "native" current draw in a Boxster nearly double just from a cell phone charger left plugged in without a phone connected to it. As the battery ages and naturally loses capacity, these drains start to take their toll. This is exactly why battery maintainers have become a big business these days...............
  17. The tanks are now plastic, so no internal corrosion. All fuel supplies are filtered at the pumps now, so source contamination has pretty much been eliminated as well. Getting rid of the traditional in-line filter removes one more service item/potential failure point in the system; and reduces both cost and weight..............
  18. 1128 and 1130 are the same problem on opposite banks (1128 is on cyl 1-3; 1130 is on cyl. 4-6). Most common cause: Leaking air intake............
  19. You may as well drain everything at this point and start fresh. The OEM coolant should cost about $22-24/gal, you will need at least two, plus distilled water.
  20. I would replace the water pump, but I would not use sealant on the thermostat housing. You need to clean the metal mating surfaces (non-scratch scotch brite pad does an excellent job) and then use a new gasket. I would also only use the OEM coolant (you can do a search for info about known compatibility issues) premixed with an equal amount of distilled water (supermarket item, but very important). Once you get the system filled and "burped", you will be set for many years of service.....
  21. Yes, it was most likely caused by an air pocket; this happens frequently with these cars when they run low on coolant due to the design of the cooling system. Refill the system using a vacuum fill, or use the alternative "burping" procedures and you will be fine.
  22. The "non return" or check valve is on the oil supply side of the actuator; I think you are correct on where it is located.
  23. Yes, it can be done on jackstands. Usually, a pair of 4 or 6 ton stands positioned ahead of the rear tires (at the jacking points) will get the car more than high enough to do it. Use hockey pucks ontop of the jackstands to protect the underbody and you are in business...............
  24. Without knowing where you are located, outside temp displays can vary wildly during ambient temperature extremes. Yesterday, the air temp here was 95F; driving around over super heated asphalt, I saw outside temps that ranged from 85F to 110F.............
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