JFP in PA

Re read my post directly above yours...............

People need to recognize that plumbing and wiring in cars of all makes try to make use of whatever space is left available, and this is the type of problem that can result. Even wiring harnesses, which are very flexible, can be a major pain to replace because of what is in the way. If it makes you feel any better, I recently did a full brake hard line replacement on a major American sedan due to corrosion like yours. We obtained a full stainless steel pre formed hard-line kit specifically designed to fit the car for around $300. We replaced the two rear hardlines, and the driver's side (US) front with the stainless-steel tubes in about an hour. The front passenger's side line was a nightmare fit like yours; we ended up dropping the engine, transmission, and their mounting cradle about 18 inches out of the car to snake the last line into place. The line in question dropped down from the master cylinder, then up over the transmission tunnel, around under the HVAC box, and then down to the wheel area. Being preformed to fit exactly where the original one was located, and stainless steel not being particularly flexible, there was simply no other way to get it into the space it had to go. We could have cut the line into sections, but too many connections in brake line are a recipe for leaks and would cause the vehicle to fail our version of your MOT here. So out came the engine and transmission cradle. Having been in this business longer than I'd care to admit, I will say that there is a list of cars whose designers I would like to look up and beat the loving crap out of them.........🤬

Welcome to RennTech You cannot even see the brake line until the fuel tank is out of the way, and to get the tank out, the rack has to come out, the front diff, etc. etc. People seem to forget that the line is pre bent to exactly conform to the bulkhead, it is not just straight tubing. And the front trunk floor pan does not just "unbolt". This is not a minor project.....

Board sponsor Sunset Porsche is always a good place to start.

All four wheels use the same sensor: 996-606-406-00, about $143 each at retail. And be cautious about buying "factory" items from Pelican, they are known to substitute non factory parts as "OEM".

Diagnostic code information, just like everything else they developed, is considered intellectual property by PCNA, and as such cannot be published or otherwise used without the specific written permission, and most likely payment, to Porsche. If Autel (or any other aftermarket diagnostic tool manufacturer) included that information in their tool, Porsche would most likely sue them out of existence. This has been the problem with every OEM since the EPA forced OBD II standards on them in 1996.

Durametric has not done that.

If it was open when you applied the pressure, probably not, but the only way to know for sure is to close up the system and either see if it holds vacuum or pump it up with a true system pressure tester to 18 psig and see if it leaks down.

Who is currently getting some holiday beach time in SC, but always willing to help, even long distance! The axle boots are a messy, but otherwise easy DIY project. As you can only get one CV joint off the shaft, you need to pull the axles and disassemble them, and after a cleaning, repack the CV’s and slide on the new boots and boot clamps. Several companies sell boot kits and CV grease as kits, but you can also get them from board sponsor Sunset Porsche as well. This project has been; written up on multiple sites When I hear about electrical gremlins like your windows and top in a car that has been in storage, first thing I think of is rodent damage on the wiring harnesses, or a bad electrical section on the ignition switch. I’d start by accessing both the window and top switches and checking them for power when the key is on; if not, a tool like the Power Probe which can apply fused power to a circuit to see if it works will tell you if it is the harness going to the device is intact. If jumping the switch activates the device, you have a power supply problem, which points back to the ignition switch. Fortunately, the electrical section of the ignition is cheap (a VW/Audi part) and again a popular DIY project that has been written up multiple times. For a car that has been sitting, I would plan on replacing every fluid (oil, gear oil, brake fluid, anti freeze, power steering fluid). All are popular DIY items, and it is always a good idea to replace everything that you do not know the age of.

First of all, you should never apply high pressure air to any cooling system; your Boxster’s system was designed to see a maximum of 18 psig pressure, anything higher could blow out seals and gaskets anywhere in the system, and even fracture the end tanks on the radiators. . This is exactly why cooling system pressure testers use hand operated pumps and not compressed air. Bad idea.

You are in LA and 200 miles from a dealer? Seems a bit odd. In any case, the problem is one of various systems communicating with each other, so it may not have any impact on drivability.

You may be having an issue developing with the gateway controller, but that is going to require a PIWIS both to diagnose and code to the vehicle if it needs to be replaced.

Welcome to RennTech Looks like you have a CAN gateway fault that has triggered a herd of communications errors. I would suggest clear all the codes and see what, if any, come back. Sometimes these complicated communications issues are a form of "brain fart" in the system, and actually just "ghost codes" that don't reoccur.

P1514 is an idle air control valve fault (open circuit), normally a break in the wiring, a bad IAC valve, or a DME fault. Using a multimeter, test across pins 1 and 3 of the valve, you should see 16-19 ohms, if you do not, the valve has to be replaced. If the resistance is correct, you need to start tracing and testing the wires back to the DME, specifically looking at the wire connected to pin 29, a voltmeter should see 0V between that pin and ground. If battery voltage is detected, you need to check that wire length for chaffing or damage.

Depending upon how big (capacity) your air compressor is, it may take some time for the vacuum to develop due to the volume of air it has to remove. Ideally, you need about 90 PSIG of pressure to make the system operate correctly. The only other possibility is something is open in the cooling system; if you have a cooling system pressure tester, it might be a good idea to try pumping the system up to around 18 PSIG and see if it holds. When we use the Uview unit, it starts to pull vacuum pretty quickly once the compressed air is started.

Four functions of the coolant warning light: 1. Engine coolant level too low — light flashes slowly (0.5 Hz) 2. Engine compartment temperature too high — light flashes slowly (0.5 Hz) (engine compartment blower might be faulty) 3. Engine coolant temperature too high — light is lit; pointer on the right 4. Temperature sensor at water outlet faulty — light flashes rapidly (1 Hz); pointer on the right Note The temperature warning in point three is indicated if the conditions "engine coolant temperature too high" and "engine coolant level too low" are present simultaneously (1Hz = 1 flash per second. 0.5Hz = 2 seconds per flash)

Because it is both the most common, as well as the best vacuum fill system, I will use the Airlift system as an example: Here is a video of how to use it on a Boxster: Uview instruction video

Merry Christmas! There is no reason or need to pinch any hoses while using the vacuum filling system, and the bleed valve should be left closed during the process. Simply mix the coolant with distilled water in a 5-gal bucket, drop the pickup tube to the bottom of the bucket, pull about 24-28 inches of vacuum on the system, then slowly open the valve to allow the coolant to be drawn in. One of the biggest advantages of the vacuum system, besides speed and completion of a fill without any air pockets, is its simplicity. About 4-5 min after opening the valve to let the coolant flow, you are done.

Just for your information, I would NEVER use anything from Beck Arnley as they are well known for poor fitment issues. Others make these kits as well. Along with the filter kit and fluid, you are going to need a fluid pump designed for a Tip, and a non-contact pyrometer to fill and properly adjust the new fluid level.

Sensor looks like this out of the tank: Getting at it is a nightmare as the tank has to come out, after the engine is lowered a bit. Because of how the tank sits, it is covered from below and impossible to get at. In this video, around 9:30, you can see the plug and how it is released (simple pinch connector). If you are even thinking about going through this process, I would recommend buying a new (factory ONLY) tank and sensor, as these tanks are known failure points, and you really don't want to do this twice: 996 coolant tank removal Good luck!

It needs to be disconnected at the tank.

When was the trans last serviced (fluid and filter)?

Welcome to RennTech Yes, it has to come out.

If the rack has never been changed out, a VIN search in Porsche parts system will reveal exactly what part number the car came with, as well as any updated components released to the market since the car was sold. VIN based parts searches are by far the best way to do what you are trying to do; and most dealerships will not sell you a part without getting the car's VIN first because they don't want to waste time ordering in or shipping the wrong stuff. It is simply the best way to get the correct part. In all the years I have run my shop, we have not had any problems going this route.

Then the VIN should be good. The two cases I ran into involved a "grey market" car (one that was never approved to be sold in North America and therefore should have never been registered as it lacked appropriate emission and safety devices for this market) and one that was stolen (VIN actually came back to a Honda Accord). Call Sunset parts, ask them to run your VIN to find out which rack should be in the car; parts departments do this all the time. 😉