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JFP in PA

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Everything posted by JFP in PA

  1. Whomever you choose to work on this car needs to start by testing the coolant sensor and change over valve electrical circuits for shorts and open circuits to eliminate the sensor and valve wiring from the equation; if the sensor and the electrical circuits are good, the valve itself is bad, which can be confirmed by measuring the valve's inlet and out let coolant temps with a non-contact pyrometer; if it is not opening when it should, it is jammed.
  2. I'm intrigued by the replacement of the coolant pipes; did your indie do this using a vacuum refilling system per the factory/dealer methods, or did they just refill and "burp" the system? Reason I ask is if it was done just before this issue cropped up, you could have a trapped air pocket in the Tip's cooling loop, which could be an easier and cheaper fix.
  3. Not an uncommon problem as diagnostic data is hard to come by as Porsche no longer publishes it, these valves are a bear to get at, and difficult to diagnose where the fault lies (e.g.: Is it an electrical problem such as a wiring short, or a mechanical fault in the valve itself) because a lot of scan tools cannot even see the Tip computer, much less see why it is upset. And if it is the valve itself, it isn't cheap and can be problematic to swap out because of where it is on the side of the trans. Larger issue is that if the valve is malfunctioning, it can overheat and kill the Tip, which will definitely make your wallet a whole lot easier to sit on.............
  4. Most probable issue is the Tips coolant change over valve has an issue or is not functioning properly.
  5. Welcome to RennTech Which of the two codes discussed do you have?
  6. No problem, everyone misses something now and again 😉
  7. That relay panel looks exactly like the one further down in Mike's diagram set........
  8. I never used anything other than the Bosch on customer cars, so I cannot comment on the Delco units.
  9. That’s a call only you can make; in my world, voltage regulators are a lot cheaper than a new alternator.
  10. Around 2004, Porsche stopped publishing service manuals in a printed form, switching to an online subscription system called TSI. The same service information is also included with a PIWIS lease, starting at $20K for the first year. Yes, you read that correctly!
  11. You should be seeing around 14.5 V with the engine running. Either the voltage regulator or the alternator itself is bad,
  12. They operate on 12V, if they are pulse width modulated versions, the controller is in the fan motor itself; if they are not PWM, look for burnt out resistors mounted on the fan shroud.
  13. Welcome to RennTech You only have to take off three of the bolts. There is the rubber disc, referred to as a Guibo, three bolts hold the drive shaft to the Guibo and three bolt hold the Guibo to the flange on the rear of the transmission. Once all three bolts are out use a large screwdriver or prybar to pry the flange off the Guibo, it will stick a bit, so you will need to use some force.
  14. There are two fans, and Durametric will turn them both on, but only if they are operable. Check to see if the turn freely by hand. You can also try by passing the system by unplugging the fans and applying power and ground to see if they run that way.
  15. Welcome to RennTech First of all, please do not double post issues, it is against forum rules. As I noted in response to your other posting on this problem, you either have a wiring issue or a sensor failure. Pulling the fuse or disconnecting the battery will do nothing as the problem will still be there unrepaired. And, as the sensor and its connector are underneath the intake system, part of the intake will need to be removed to access it and replace it if the wiring is fine.
  16. As noted above, either the sensor connector or wiring are disconnected, or the sensor itself has failed. If it is the level/temp sensor (item 13 below), the problem becomes removing it as it is inserted vertically under the intake manifold:
  17. Please do not "bump", it is against forum rules you agreed to when you joined.
  18. I saw the photo of this car you posted on another website, and it looks like it has taken a hit to the front end along with its other issues. The fans could either be jammed, or burnt out. I would suggest pulling the bashed in front fascia and getting a good look at them to see if they turn freely by hand, which would also allow you to test them electrically. As the car is an 08, these may be pulse width modulated controlled fans, and they can be pricey..........
  19. Yes. A bad battery can act like a black hole for alternator output. As Loren noted, get the battery load tested, if it is bad, replace it. If the alternator still has low output, it is probably the voltage regulator which can be swapped out as well.
  20. The oil cooler is a couple of hundred bucks as a part, plus the labor taking the old one out and installing the new one, plus an oil change and filter; you are probably looking at $1500 or so.
  21. Thanks, but we already have a shelf full of spare parts starters, but thanks for the offer! 😉 Perhaps a local tech school would accept it as an educational item, but you should also hang onto it just in case wherever you are getting the replacement from wants a core.
  22. That looks like it may be the coolant tank overflow.
  23. The internal gears use a very heavy grease due to the temperature they see and are not good candidates for the Teflon spray lube, if anything I would use silicone-based brake grease is they need to be re-lubed as the brake grease is also for high temp applications. The Dupont product is only to be used on the shaft and internally on the gear of the Bendix shaft, I just checked Wal-Mart, and they are listing the Dupont product in stock with one day delivery locally, so you might want to look at other sources. As I am not familiar with the other products, I can't really recommend them.
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