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JFP in PA

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Everything posted by JFP in PA

  1. There are two fans, and Durametric will turn them both on, but only if they are operable. Check to see if the turn freely by hand. You can also try by passing the system by unplugging the fans and applying power and ground to see if they run that way.
  2. Welcome to RennTech First of all, please do not double post issues, it is against forum rules. As I noted in response to your other posting on this problem, you either have a wiring issue or a sensor failure. Pulling the fuse or disconnecting the battery will do nothing as the problem will still be there unrepaired. And, as the sensor and its connector are underneath the intake system, part of the intake will need to be removed to access it and replace it if the wiring is fine.
  3. As noted above, either the sensor connector or wiring are disconnected, or the sensor itself has failed. If it is the level/temp sensor (item 13 below), the problem becomes removing it as it is inserted vertically under the intake manifold:
  4. Please do not "bump", it is against forum rules you agreed to when you joined.
  5. I saw the photo of this car you posted on another website, and it looks like it has taken a hit to the front end along with its other issues. The fans could either be jammed, or burnt out. I would suggest pulling the bashed in front fascia and getting a good look at them to see if they turn freely by hand, which would also allow you to test them electrically. As the car is an 08, these may be pulse width modulated controlled fans, and they can be pricey..........
  6. Yes. A bad battery can act like a black hole for alternator output. As Loren noted, get the battery load tested, if it is bad, replace it. If the alternator still has low output, it is probably the voltage regulator which can be swapped out as well.
  7. The oil cooler is a couple of hundred bucks as a part, plus the labor taking the old one out and installing the new one, plus an oil change and filter; you are probably looking at $1500 or so.
  8. Thanks, but we already have a shelf full of spare parts starters, but thanks for the offer! 😉 Perhaps a local tech school would accept it as an educational item, but you should also hang onto it just in case wherever you are getting the replacement from wants a core.
  9. That looks like it may be the coolant tank overflow.
  10. The internal gears use a very heavy grease due to the temperature they see and are not good candidates for the Teflon spray lube, if anything I would use silicone-based brake grease is they need to be re-lubed as the brake grease is also for high temp applications. The Dupont product is only to be used on the shaft and internally on the gear of the Bendix shaft, I just checked Wal-Mart, and they are listing the Dupont product in stock with one day delivery locally, so you might want to look at other sources. As I am not familiar with the other products, I can't really recommend them.
  11. Welcome to RennTech We are going to need photos.
  12. Pelican = unreasonable prices and dismal service Uro = Unreliable quality
  13. We have cleaned and re-lubed a lot of them over the years and most went on to serve for many more years before the starter needed to be replaced. This problem happens because the drive picks up debris from both the clutch and environment over time. To clean the drive, use common brake cleaner, and once dry, spray the shaft with DuPont dry Teflon spray (Lowes and Amazon carry it) while moving the starter gear back and forth. The advantage of using this type of lubricant is that it does not attract dirt and moisture like common greases do. To facilitate this, the starter has to be removed from the engine, so the question as to fix it or replace it is purely a personal choice. As a shop owner, I don't like to replace parts unless it is absolutely necessary, maintenance is always preferable and cheaper in the long run.😉
  14. Sounds like the Bendix drive on the starter is not retracting properly when you release the key. This is a common problem and can usually be fixed by cleaning the drive and relubricating it.
  15. Welcome to RennTech LN Engineering has the most useful information on how to tell the bearings apart, which is by looking at the two flange types: The flange on the left is shallow, indicating a dual row bearing, the flange on the right is the deep style, indicating a single row. Yours looks like the left style, indicating it is a dual row. The number on the flange is meaningless.
  16. Boneyard, from a wrecked car. Do an online search, there are firms that specialize in Porsches.
  17. First of all, welcome to RennTech The IMS failure issue is both well known and widely discussed on just about any Internet forum involving Porsches, so a quick Google search should fill in any blank spots on the subject for you; and there are commercially available retrofits for the IMS to address this exact issue. Realistically, probably the best option for you is to source a used engine rather than rebuild the one you have. As you have discovered, just a simple refresh of an engine with no damage is a wallet thinning activity. Good luck.
  18. You need to tell us your year and model of the vehicle as they are different. Assuming you are speaking about the 2003 in your records, you should be reading around 5 inches of water or less at the oil cap when fully warmed up. Note that is inches of water, not mercury. If it is higher than that, your AOS is probably on its way out.
  19. If the dealer said your VIN is clear of recalls, I would go with that. They have access to the car's history, and Carfax is not known for its accuracy on this issue.
  20. Welcome to RennTech , and thank you for contributing 👍 Did you mean Durametric? That is a diagnostic scan tool, not a "programmer".
  21. That attached document came up "dirty" during a virus scan when downloading.
  22. Recalls are also VIN specific, so general online data can be misleading. As Loren noted, check with the dealer.
  23. You can also check the motor for shorts while it is unplugged.
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