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Everything posted by JFP in PA

  1. You have all the signs of a bad crank position sensor; not expensive and relatively easy (one bolt) swap out.
  2. He is referring to the headlight activation test, which can be done with the PIWIS or Durametric Pro software, which will put the headlights thru their movement paces. But if your light is off its gimbal, it would not move during this test, which would just confirm that the light is jammed. I have read about people fixing this problem, but have not done it myself, so I would suggest searching or perhaps another poster can chime in. This may help as well: http://986forum.com/forums/boxster-general-discussions/60449-litronic-headlight-repair.html
  3. First of all, you should have bought the light from board sponsor Sunset Porsche instead of Suncoast. Most likely, the internal assembly has become dislodged from its pivot points during shipping. While some have been able to get it back into position, as you just bought it, I would return it.
  4. I will tell you what we have told several customers and posters on this forum: Yes, it can be done, but the view is not worth the climb. Unless you already have in your possession every part you will need, have a well equipped shop at your disposal, and unlimited time available; forget it and go find a car equipped as you would like it. To make one of these conversions requires significantly disassembling the car (pulling out the interior, replumbing the cooling system, rewiring the car, possibly dropping the engine out, etc.). The cost of having a shop do it would easily exceed the value of the car, doing it yourself is one Hell of a lot of work. You need to seriously rethink this idea...…..
  5. You haven't said what year the car is, so I don't know if it is a 3 or 5 chain engine; if it is the five chain, I would be looking at the wear pads on the short chain between the cams. These are well known for wearing prematurely and causing out of spec deviation values.
  6. It's luck. A lot of things Porsche does is driven by the bean counters, making all the early 986's standard with cruise and OBC, but without activating these systems or installing controls to operate them was a cost driven concept, as Porsche believed that these systems would be popular enough to trigger many "post delivery" activations and dealer control retrofits, and that the factory could charge as much for the options post delivery as they did if they were ordered when the car was built. Two things they did not count on was someone would develop a cost effective alternative to the PSIT II or PIWIS systems that could switch them on, and that courts would rule it was unfair to charge full boat for a hidden option that was actually given away with the car in the first place. Once that happened, Porsche stopped shipping all the cars with these capabilities built in. So getting one with it, that can show anything without adding the fourth stalk was luck...….…………...
  7. Actually, the stalk does matter, depending upon the year of the car. On many cars, just activation of the OBC system will show nothing; it requires either retrofitting the stalk or a similar toggling device before the display goes active. In your case, you got lucky.........
  8. Then you do not have OBC. The fourth stalk can be added, the OBC activated, do a search and you will find lots of DIY installations.
  9. Does the steering column have four stalks or three?
  10. In order to see the outside air temp, the car has to have the on board computer option.
  11. You can see it and feel if it has a too much play, but that is about it. You can use a pick to remove the rear seal which is highly recommended. You MUST however prep the engine as though you were removing it (locked at TDC, cams locked, tensioners removed, etc.) before pulling the rear flange to have a peek.
  12. I would stay away from the single mass flywheel for several reasons. Noise and chatter are problematic on the street, and both Porsche an a renowned Porsche engine builder had recommended against using them unless the engine's rotating mass and the single mass are dynamically balanced together. People tend to forget the dual mass is the ONLY harmonic dampening device in the rotating mass, removing capability that can take you to places you don't want to be. The upgraded clutch is also a toss up. For heavy track use, it may have the advantage, on the street, not so much. We have had customers run factory and replacement factory units with excellent street drivability and very long lives. The BBI slave is another questionable. Yes it changes the clutch pedal feel, but installations have be problem prone, including premature failures which the manufacturer continues to write off as due to the wrong fluid being used. But multiple cases have shown that to not be correct. As for your IMS bearing, while they are inspecting it, have them remove the rear seal so it can mist lubricate. We have many running this way with no problems.
  13. Welcome to RennTech! Beautiful looking car...….good luck with it.
  14. Check your coolant tank cap, if the last digits are anything other than -04, replace it with a new factory unit.
  15. Probably either a loose connection or the leveling servo is out. You should be able to activate the system with the Durametric or PIWIS and see what is going on.
  16. Yes, breakin oil is appropriate. Check with LN Engineering, they have breakin oils in their Joe Gibbs line.
  17. Fluids, like solid objects, can transmit noise. If the throw out bearing is going south, it can transmit that noise to clutch slave, and forward to the clutch reservoir, which is just on the opposite side of the firewall from the clutch pedal. Put the car on a lift and listen by the bellhousing, if the bearing is bad, you should hear it.
  18. You isolate the damaged wire section, remove it, and correctly replace it with the appropriate sized and color replacement. To do it correctly, you cut open the bundle, solder in the new wire, apply heat shrink tubing over the solder joint(s) and rewrap the harness. You can replace the entire harness, but you will need a big check book for that; one or two wires and some time would come in a Hell of a lot cheaper. Done correctly, you would have to look very closely to even know it had been touched. Running duplicate wires is quicker, but also a flag saying someone did not want to take the time to do it correctly, and which could turn prospective buyer's off.
  19. P2402 indicates an internal short in the leak detection pump, which is probably why it won't run. Usually, it also means that the pump has to be replaced.
  20. First of all, cam deviation values should only be check on a thoroughly warmed up engine, say after a 10-15 min. drive. Second, if you get the same reading, you have a possible issue as the limits are +/- 6 degrees.
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