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JFP in PA

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Everything posted by JFP in PA

  1. The dash has several grounding points, just follow any solid brown wire and you will find one.
  2. It should on race cars using the MS 3.1 engine module, which I think was in play through 2007.
  3. Your hypothesis about crimping being better is dead wrong. Soldering is always better for a simple, often misunderstood reason; resistance in the circuit. Crimp connectors add a different thickness material (often aluminum) to the electrical circuit, and that can have huge implications to what happens next, especially sensor circuits like the MAF. Equal lengths of twisted copper wire and aluminum tube have different inherent resistance when measured a very low ohm levels. This changes the voltage levels sensor's see under the exact same conditions, the lower the voltage level, t
  4. Bit of an odd item, I got mine with a Durametric Pro system, but they do not sell the cup car cable separately. You might want to Google it around as they come up for sale from time to time.
  5. Welcome to RennTech Suggest you contact Charles Navarro, owner of LN, he has been running one for several years in his Cayman.
  6. Welcome to RennTech The S speedo face will not read correctly as your base speedo is calibrated to 150 MPH, not 175.
  7. OK, you are running high film strength and ZDDP oils, which is what you should be doing. Your idle speed is a bit low (spec is around 775-790), but as yours is an e-gas throttle body, the idle speed is software controlled and cannot easily be changed. Idle speed can be altered by a variety of factors, so while it is a bit low, I wouldn’t be pursing that at this juncture. Bore scoring could alter your idle speed due to excessive drag at low speeds in the damaged cylinder(s), but it is not necessarily a given that low idle speed indicates bore scoring. I think it is time for you t
  8. As you had trans work done earlier, it is the obvious place to start as the switch is in a location that is not easy to see if the harness is fully plugged in.
  9. See my post above...........😉 I'll bet the connector has come off the switch as the shifter has nothing to do with the back up lights, if it were so maladjusted that the gear did not contact the switch, it would pop out of gear every time you tried to back up....
  10. It is not on the shifter, it is on the transmission itself: Repairing the 996 backup light switch
  11. That part number ( pcg 201 221 01) is not a correct Porsche part number, and bears no relationship to any of the part numbers that have preceded the one I gave you. I think they are trying to sell you what they have rather than what you need. And you cannot simply block off lines that happen to not be included with this part, the car will at a minimum code on your, at worst not even run.
  12. The correct EVAP canister, #996-201-221-08, is still available. This part has been superseded a couple of times over the years (996-201-221-02, 996-201-221-05, 996-201-221-09), but it still looks the same as your original unit according to the Porsche parts system.
  13. It definitely sound like it is oil pressure related, which ain't good. Not to start an endless "best oil" argument, but what oil do you run in the engine? As bore scoring is well known on these engines, probably your next step is to have it bore scoped.
  14. You can lengthen damaged wires, providing that you use matching gauge wire sections, soldering the joints and then heat shrink tubing over the joints for water tightness and insulation. Soldered joints are critical on many of the wires in these cars, and in particular those that carry low voltage signals like the MAF.
  15. Probably just unburnt fuel; take it out for a run and see if it clears up.
  16. The correct method to test the battery primary leads is by voltage drop, it should be no more than 0.5V.
  17. You don't, you need a PIWIS system to code the module to the car. A lot of the control modules in these cars need to be told exactly what they are dealing with before they are happy again; they are not simple "plug and play" devices due to the number of possible configurations the car could be carrying. They are definitely "some assembly required" systems.........
  18. Yeah, that one ain't happy. While I hate to use weather worn phases, it would not be a bad idea to swap them out "while you are in there". Injectors wear and foul more than people would believe. There is also a market for used injectors that people buy to have refurbished and installed.
  19. They are small but not tiny: Most of the time, with care, they can be reused as they are actually just crimped on. Reattaching the wire by soldering is a good idea, just be careful about making the connector too big to fit in its opening.
  20. The small connectors inside the pug have a small "tang" that sticks up and locks them in place, these tools allow you to slide in the tool, depress the tang, and remove the terminal and its wire without damage. Still more evidence that "there is a tool for absolutely everything............." 😀
  21. You need what is called a "pin removal tool" set from someone like SIR Tools. These will allow you to remove the terminal without damaging it, reset the wire and reinstall it. Other tool companies like OTC make them as well.
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