Jump to content

Welcome to RennTech.org Community, Guest

There are many great features available to you once you register at RennTech.org
You are free to view posts here, but you must log in to reply to existing posts, or to start your own new topic. Like most online communities, there are costs involved to maintain a site like this - so we encourage our members to donate. All donations go to the costs operating and maintaining this site. We prefer that guests take part in our community and we offer a lot in return to those willing to join our corner of the Porsche world. This site is 99 percent member supported (less than 1 percent comes from advertising) - so please consider an annual donation to keep this site running.

Here are some of the features available - once you register at RennTech.org

  • View Classified Ads
  • DIY Tutorials
  • Porsche TSB Listings (limited)
  • VIN Decoder
  • Special Offers
  • OBD II P-Codes
  • Paint Codes
  • Registry
  • Videos System
  • View Reviews
  • and get rid of this welcome message

It takes just a few minutes to register, and it's FREE

Contributing Members also get these additional benefits:
(you become a Contributing Member by donating money to the operation of this site)

  • No ads - advertisements are removed
  • Access the Contributors Only Forum
  • Contributing Members Only Downloads
  • Send attachments with PMs
  • All image/file storage limits are substantially increased for all Contributing Members
  • Option Codes Lookup
  • VIN Option Lookups (limited)

JFP in PA

Moderators
 View Profile  See their activity

  • Posts

    8,587

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    190

 Content Type 

Everything posted by JFP in PA

  1. JFP in PA
    Have you tested the circuits as indicated above?
  2. JFP in PA
    The O2 sensor plug has multiple pins, one is the sensor signal, another is the power supplied for the heater. I would suggest using a digital multimeter on the unplugged harness end and testing each pin for voltage with the key on, and test the heater for resistance; if there is no voltage, somewhere upstream on the harness there is either a wiring break or bad connector 9internanl corrosion), which you will have to find.
  3. JFP in PA
    You need to test the heater circuit wiring for both sensors, the codes indicate that the sensor isn't necessarily bad, but the sensor heaters are not working. This is quite often a wiring issue.
  4. JFP in PA
    Interesting test idea, but if you want to definitively evaluate the engine for cracks anywhere in the cooling system, the correct way to do it is with an cooling system pressure testing rig: This tool will allow you to properly test ANY cooling system, using the correct adaptor, by pressurizing the system to 18-20 PSIG, and then watching it for 15-20 min to see if it drops. If it does, first thing you check for is external leaks. which is done by adding a small quantity of cooling system YV dye, running the system, and then inspecting all possible leak points (seals, gaskets, hoses, etc.) in a darkened garage with a UV light source: If there is even the slightest leak, the UV dye will light up like a Christmas tree; if nothing is found, the leak has to be internal to the engine. At that point, a leak down test is in order to determine where (which head) is the problem: Good luck.
  5. JFP in PA
    Welcome to RennTech The code P0674: Fuel rail pressure sensor - inappropriately high - Upper limit value exceeded, test conditions are not-completed, fault is currently active and is not causing a DTC light. The sensor itself could be bad, or it could be the high-pressure pump pressure regulator actually causing high pressure. I would suggest having a dealer test your fuel pressure values before going forward as this requires special test equipment due to the very high-pressure values. The sensor and fuel rail are under the intake manifold, which has to be removed to replace it, but some caution is advised as this system operates at between 580 and 1740 PSIG:
  6. JFP in PA
    It could be that there are cars out there that already had the newer bracket (and motor) and would thereby not need both if the motor needed to be changed. A lot of later model years (2010 on) came from the factory with that later design bracket.
  7. JFP in PA
    I also want to ask you what will seem like a strange question: Have you had any water intrusion in the cabin, like under the seats? Reason I ask is that E6 shares duty with the ultra-rare factory cell phone set up and all cars are wired for it, having an unused plug for the system under one seat where the cell transmitter would have lived; if that plug gets wet, E6 blows, and you cannot fill the gas tank. Just a thought.........
  8. JFP in PA
    The electric valves are not in that device, that device is the vacuum connection to the fuel tank and one way check valve for the EVAP system carbon canister. The electric valves are at #1 and #6 in this diagram (#1 is under the intake manifold, 6 is at the EVAP canister).
  9. JFP in PA
    This is how the tank vent is supposed to work: The gas nozzle goes in, hits flapper, the flapper opens the magnetic "reed" switch: that is mounted to the outside of the filler tube, the reed switch tells two electric valves to open; if you push on the flapper with something, you should hear an audible click if it is working. One valve is on the tank (under battery to the right) and the other is in a box in the front right tire well (between tire and bumper). This whole process opens venting to allow the tank to fill.
  10. JFP in PA
    I would suggest checking the engine coolant temp reading using a scan tool, not the dash. If the DME is getting erroneous coolant temp data, it will act on it as though it was real.
  11. JFP in PA
    Welcome to RennTech You need to do some electrical diagnostics here; I would start by pulling the vent valve and checking it both electrically and for function. The valve itself can jam, causing the short. If the valve checks out, you need to start testing and possibly tracing the wire going to the valve; one or both may be shorted.
  12. JFP in PA
    Have you tested fuel pressures and delivery rates?
  13. JFP in PA
    Staying out of trouble as much as possible, and the weather has been great of late.
  14. JFP in PA
    That Weather Pac connector is part #PNA72104300136, dealers sell them: You are going to need to source a replacement dust boot and get the necessary pin extractor tools to get the old one apart and install a replacement. Another possible is source a used one with some wire still attached to it and then cut, solder, and heat shrink tube over it to make it electrically sound and weather tight.
  15. JFP in PA
    A photo would be useful.
  16. JFP in PA
    Check the head light's ground connections.
  17. JFP in PA
    That should be a pinch release type fitting.
  18. JFP in PA
    Please post a comprehensive list of the the DTC codes you are seeing; without them, anything would be a guess.
  19. JFP in PA
    Remove the air cleaner, throttle body, and center intake runner. You should be able to see the wiring to the oil level sensor. Because of its length, some models require lowering the engine slightly to get it out.
  20. JFP in PA
    We always re-gap the Denso TT plugs to 1.6 mm using a special tool:
  21. JFP in PA
    Welcome to RennTech The control module may have just "lost" its configuration during the battery swap, and now needs reprogramming rather than replacing. Find a shop with a PIWIS system and they can do it for you. And yes, only a PIWIS will do it.
  22. JFP in PA
    Unless you have a tool that would get in there, you are better off removing the throttle body.
  23. JFP in PA
    Both the battery and the alternator can be tested by most auto parts stores, or any decently equipped shop. While it could be the battery but is more likely an alternator issue.
  24. JFP in PA
    Labor rates vary widely with geography, but you are going to be into a couple grand.
  25. JFP in PA
    Welcome to RennTech Unfortunately, your original problem mirrors common complaints when a clutch is on the way out. I would do two things: Rebleed the clutch hydraulic system and see what happens, if that doesn't do it, it may very well be clutch time.
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.