Jump to content

Welcome to RennTech.org Community, Guest

There are many great features available to you once you register at RennTech.org
You are free to view posts here, but you must log in to reply to existing posts, or to start your own new topic. Like most online communities, there are costs involved to maintain a site like this - so we encourage our members to donate. All donations go to the costs operating and maintaining this site. We prefer that guests take part in our community and we offer a lot in return to those willing to join our corner of the Porsche world. This site is 99 percent member supported (less than 1 percent comes from advertising) - so please consider an annual donation to keep this site running.

Here are some of the features available - once you register at RennTech.org

  • View Classified Ads
  • DIY Tutorials
  • Porsche TSB Listings (limited)
  • VIN Decoder
  • Special Offers
  • OBD II P-Codes
  • Paint Codes
  • Registry
  • Videos System
  • View Reviews
  • and get rid of this welcome message

It takes just a few minutes to register, and it's FREE

Contributing Members also get these additional benefits:
(you become a Contributing Member by donating money to the operation of this site)

  • No ads - advertisements are removed
  • Access the Contributors Only Forum
  • Contributing Members Only Downloads
  • Send attachments with PMs
  • All image/file storage limits are substantially increased for all Contributing Members
  • Option Codes Lookup
  • VIN Option Lookups (limited)

JFP in PA

Moderators
 View Profile  See their activity

  • Posts

    8,816

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    207

 Content Type 

Everything posted by JFP in PA

  1. JFP in PA
    You may still have oil in the intake system, which is slow to come out, and a drop creates a cloud of smoke. As RFM stated, do not run the oil level high, that will only worsen your problems. Thanks for the advice. should I wipe out the oils from intake routes or should I leave it till the oil eventually is removed through time? Doing so is quite a bit of work as you would need to remove most of the intake system to do it. It would get rid of the smoking issue, but not knowing your expertise level, you need to think about both the effort to do it and the chance of ending up with vacuum leaks if you don't do it correctly.
  2. JFP in PA
    Not sure how you can blame this on the Durametric scan tool; the codes seem to be for two unrelated engine events (P0021 is a code for cam timing issue on bank 2, P2181 is the cooling system) separated by time and miles, plus in any case either dealer would have used a PIWIS system which is pretty bullet proof as a diagnostics tool.
  3. JFP in PA
    Statement like this really make me weak..............
  4. JFP in PA
    If the throw-out bearing is totally off the fork, it can make one Hell of a din banging around on the transmission input shaft housing as it bounces off the back off the pressure plate fingers. Get a look at what is going on in there.....
  5. JFP in PA
    Im trying to picture what you mean by the fork coming off the ball pin. What is the ball pin? The "ball pin" is the pivot on the opposite end of the fork from the clutch slave, the term is the name Porsche gave to it.
  6. JFP in PA
    Yes, not to sound pedantic, but the car most probably has too much oil in it, which is not a good thing. Check the oil level, if it is over filled, try changing the oil filter which will drain about 1/2 quart out. If that is not enough to get it to the correct level, dump the oil and start over.
  7. JFP in PA
    Glad you found it, I expected there was an air leak in one or more of the systems, and the AOS is always a favorite leak point.
  8. JFP in PA
    It is possible that the throw out bearing is no longer connected the fork, or the fork itself has come off the ball pin, I'd start there.
  9. JFP in PA
    You may still have oil in the intake system, which is slow to come out, and a drop creates a cloud of smoke. As RFM stated, do not run the oil level high, that will only worsen your problems.
  10. JFP in PA
    Nothing beats a good sudsing with a quality car wash formulated not to remove the wax (P21 or Sonnax) followed by a rinse with a lot of clear water. Everything else is just push the dirt around, which is a recipe for scratches.
  11. JFP in PA
    No, they do not use O-rings.
  12. JFP in PA
    Two points: You must use the one that is correct for your car (the turbo cars run the Metzger engine which is totally different than the M96), and I would check with the dealer to make sure you get any updated part number.
  13. JFP in PA
    It sounds like the ground strap is not only loose, but is showing signs of corrosion. Time for a new one, being sure to clean off the contact point where it bolts on as well.
  14. JFP in PA
    The Porsche OEM rotors (Brembo or Zimmerman) are pretty good units, but as mentioned can wear much faster with harder compound pads. People have tried just about everything out there (cryro treated rotors, dimpled or grooved rather than cross drilled, etc.) but I have not really seen a major advantage of one type over the other from a wear rate consideration.
  15. JFP in PA
    That is the one, always fun to get at.
  16. JFP in PA
    As mentioned earlier, even Porsche recognized the ground straps and other cables were problematic, they are common weak point on these cars. Replacing a questionable cable is always a good idea, they cause no end of issues (codes, strange MIL lights with no basis, poor hot starts, diming lights, weird audio issues, etc.). We have found that just replacing the questionable cables is sufficient to putting an end to the problems; we have also never had to add any extra cables.
  17. JFP in PA
    OK, let's go from the basics: Bank 1 is the passenger's side of the car. 97-99 2.5L engines did not have pre cats, only the three way unit (the bigger one to the rear of the system). So ignoring the fact that the right hand system in the diagram shows a pre cat (item #2), the forward O2 sensor would be located where item #35 is in the pipe. Requires a 22MM wrench or O2 sensor socket to remove.
  18. JFP in PA
    #36 is a chassis ground strap, which unfortunately is not accessible from underneath the car. To get at it from above requires pulling some components from the engine, such as part of the intake system.
  19. JFP in PA
    They are not the same; Optima has a patent on the spiral wound cell design (AKA the "six pack" shape), which is the core of its claims for superior vibration resistance and longer life expectancy.
  20. JFP in PA
    Interesting testing sequence; that said, your alternator voltage looks too low at times, which is indicative of a weak voltage regulator or diodes. I would pull the alternator and have it load tested at either an alternator repair shop, or a parts outlet that do these tests for free, if for no other reason than to eliminate it. You also have cable issues based upon your measurement of 0.7 ohms (this test should have been run with the cable ends disconnected so you are only looking at the cables), the cable resistance is also too high, which is a very common phenomenon on these cars (if memory serves, Porsche released a TSB on the subject as well as updated parts). Cable resistance should be much lower: The resistance, R, of a length of wire is described by the expression: [*]R = ρL/A where [*]ρ = resistivity of the material composing the wire,L = length of the wire, andA = area of the conducting cross section of the wire. On that basis, a new "0" AWG battery cable would have a measured resistance level of 0.09 ohms over a length of 1000 feet, you are seeing 0.7 ohms across a couple of feet.
  21. JFP in PA
    Two things to consider about switching to pads with longer life expectancy: First, they tend to be much noisier than the OEM style pads due to the harder pad compound, Second, longer wearing pads tend to be harder on the rotors and wear them faster. Except for track use, we tend to stay away from harder pad compounds as they tend to lead to more customer complaints on the street.
  22. JFP in PA
    Which "screws" are you referring to, the torque convert to flex plate bolts?
  23. JFP in PA
    Should pop off; sometimes it needs some encouragement with a trim tool that is shaped like a "Y".
  24. JFP in PA
    Be sure to secure the converter to the trans while removing it (bit of wire between the converter and a bell housing bolt hole will do the trick) lest it come off the trans while tilting the gearbox. If you drop and dent one of these things, it is toast.....
  25. JFP in PA
    P0134 is for a lack of activity on that sensor, either a dead sensor or a harness issue. I seriously doubt the car will pass inspection with that code. This should help with location:
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.