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JFP in PA

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Everything posted by JFP in PA

  1. LN Engineering has engaged a professional fulfillment firm to handle all their orders.
  2. I would also be cautious and follow LN's instructions on what to put on the bottom of the nut (LocTite 574) and the center bolt threads (Loctite "green" wicking) to prevent oil seepage.
  3. Be careful about which lights you use for daytime running lights; there are some limits which lamps can be used and which cannot (e.g.: parking or low beam head lamps are OK), so check before doing the wiring only to find the vehicle will not pass inspection.
  4. Odds and evens - same torque :huh: ??There is only one lug torque spec value................96 ft. lb.
  5. The jack points are designed to accept a pad with a key way that locks into the car to keep the car from moving, your bar would need to lock into these key ways and still not be so low to the floor that a jack could get under it:
  6. Unless you want to go through the entire cam timing exercise, which requires some additional tooling, not really. Are you absolutely sure you have rotated the eninge (clockwise only) to TDC before locking it down at the crank?
  7. Before you started this adventure, did you check the cam deviation values with either a PIWIS or Durametric software to see where the cams are to begin with? The tools should not need any "trimming" to work correctly.
  8. Low air pressure (less than 20 PSIG) would not cause an issue, but when you tell people that, immediately the "If one is good, and two is better; then forty seven has to be just right" principal takes over and the next thing you know someone is cranking up their compressor to put 100 PSIG in the system with disastrous results. These systems where designed to operate at around 18-19 PSIG, no more. Realistically, you are never going to get more than about 85-90% of the coolant out of the car without taking the entire car apart; some of it just gets hung up in odd places and cannot be pushed or sucked out. So to prevent problems, just let gravity do the job for you; it is about as good as it gets. Premixed (with distilled water) coolant will live a long time if stored in a closed and clean container. If you think about it, stored on the shelf, it is actually better off than the stuff in your engine (no heat cycles, no metal ions, no contamination, etc.).
  9. Get the car scanned, either Durametric or PIWIS, that will tell you if there are any related codes, and the system can also check and reset any service reminders as well.
  10. Not really, these cars have cats that are susceptible to vibration and often die early on cars with a lot of track time on them or hard use. A comparison scan of the before an after sensors will show the cat's condition.
  11. That is the correct sensor; Bank 1 is cylinders 1 to 3. Which is on the left side 996. The code is the sensor after the cat (muffler side). As the sensor is new, it should not be showing signs of aging, which is what the code is for. I would ask the following: Who's sensor is it (aftermarket or OEM)? Does it have a plug on it like the OEM sensor would, or is it "hardwired"? I would also suggest unplugging the sensor and cleaning the plug ends (if they are still there) with contact cleaner, reconnecting the sensor and clearing the code to see if comes back. In addition, I would get the car scanned (Durametric software is fine)to get a record of how the O2 sensors before and after the cat are responding, you may have an early indication of TWC cat failure. A good TWC would scan entirely different than a one that is failing:
  12. Which sensor was replaced as the code is specific to a sensor location.
  13. Couple currently on flea bay for $25 (http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-GENUINE-PORSCHE-911-997-CARRERA-TURBO-WINDSHIELD-WASHER-SPRAY-NOZZLE-/370612860856)
  14. Logray is correct, but while you do not need to drain the entire system, if the mix in the car is more than a couple years old, I would dump it all and refresh the system. While called "lifetime" coolant, the OEM coolant (which is very good) does eventually break down and need replacing.
  15. The Uview "basic" will do OK, but with the top of the line unit being so much better made (all brass instead of molded plastics), coming with adaptors to fit just about anything with a cooling system, and only costing a few more bucks, I'd go for the better unit. We have had a couple of the brass units for years, great product.
  16. This is fully covered, with photos, in the Bentley manual if you have access to one........
  17. Support the engine, detach rear stabilizer bar, remove the retaining straps on the cats, remove the engine carrier bolts, swing the engine carrier rearward, have at the pump. Sometimes helps if the engine is lowered slightly.
  18. I think you will find that most, if not all dealers, simply do not want the liability exposure for turning it off.
  19. Not sure I like this idea; instead of automatically disconnecting the battery and losing everything from radio presets to the DME's learned information, why not just use a maintainer (or even a solar maintainer, that does not require line power)? I don't know the current standards of your MOT, but over here if the battery is disconnected just before inspection, the car won't pass because the DME will report several key emissions parameters as "not ready" because the car has to go through multiple driving cycles before the DME will reset to "ready".
  20. If the light came on while the seat belt was in use, try spraying some contact cleaner into the buckle (car not running, towel under the buckle to catch overspray). Some times these issues are just crud built up on the contacts in the buckles and the spray is a quick and lasting fix.
  21. I would say it looks "OK"; we prefer oils with A3, B3, B4 ACEA ratings, and published ZDDP levels above 1000PPM, and preferably above 1200PPM. While this oil holds two of the three ACEA ratings, which is good, I found published data on what levels of ZDDP are involved in their "race" and "street" oils: "The Nanodrive race oils contain approximately 1100ppm of ZDDP. This compares to as little as 600ppm for street oils." (http://performanceracingoils.com/faqs-ezp-2.html) So, if your product selection is their "race" oil, the ZDDP level is very good.
  22. Those are just basic physical properties; usually they list things like ZDDP levels is a separate data sheet, but as I mentioned, they are getting very elusive on ZDDP. I like that it has ACEA A3/B4.
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