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JFP in PA

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Everything posted by JFP in PA

  1. JFP in PA
    Try 900-123-118-30 (may be superseded).
  2. JFP in PA
    Yes, it is possible to overfill the trans, and you must run the car until the fluid reaches 30-40C in park (only), then adjust the fluid level as needed.
  3. JFP in PA
    One with an known high ZPPD level, good film strength, and the ability to withstand high heat/high shear without falling out of grade.
  4. JFP in PA
    Yes, the heater core itself can leak, but fortuantely it is easy to get at and replace if it does.
  5. JFP in PA
    The differnces in battery life and/or performance typically comes down to design and construction methods. All other things being equal, if you reduce the amount of metallic lead in the plate frame, you shorten life and reduce capcity. If you do not wrap the plates well enough, use a quality plate seperation technology, or do not "pack" (how tightly the plates are sandwiched) the cells enough, life is shortened considerably and reduced vibration resistance. So even though you start with basically the same ingredients, you end up with a different product depending upon where you choose to cut corners. Unfortunately, even though two batteries look the same, and seem to have the same initial specs, what you get long term can, and will, vary significantly based upon the things you cannot see, but do matter.............. Batteries sold through "big box" stores are commodities, even brand named products, and are typically made to the store's specs, which always leads with price. This is the reason you often see a brand named product, but with a weird part number in this setting, the product was manufactured to the store's specs and cannot be found at any other outlet, and most likely will perform differently than a similar model purchased elsewhere.
  6. JFP in PA
    All ignition system component's age with use, and as compression ratios go up, and obviously even more so in turbo or supercharged engines where the cylinder peak pressures escalate even more quickly, the more quickly the ignition components become unable to "light the fire", sometimes on just an intermittent level. So what you are seeing is not at all unusual or unexpected, and it is also why full race engines resort to multi spark and really high voltage ignition systems. The penance you have to pay for higher HP output on the street is more frequent maintenance and often higher quality ignition components.
  7. JFP in PA
    All the more reason to check every non castellated fastener on the front end of the car. I too have never seen these fasteners even come loose, much less fall out of the car while driving; very disconcerting......
  8. JFP in PA
    Not an uncommon occurrence, Porsche is learning by experience, just as we are. I would suggest also getting a replacement for the same bolt on the other side of the car, bolts are relatively cheap, fishing the car out of ditch after the front end falls apart at speed is not......... hmm yeah, two bolts are on order - one for each side of the car. BOTH of them went missing!! Just as an aside, who was the last to work on the front end of the car? You mentioned you have aftermarket suspension pieces..........
  9. JFP in PA
    Not an uncommon occurrence, Porsche is learning by experience, just as we are. I would suggest also getting a replacement for the same bolt on the other side of the car, bolts are relatively cheap, fishing the car out of ditch after the front end falls apart at speed is not.........
  10. JFP in PA
    #7 is a M14X160 bolt, spec is 118 ft. lb. Thanks JFP. I think you and I are looking at different fiches for some reason. Here is what I am looking at from Porsche's website and shows #7 as a M14x1.5x110. I was using the diagram in the Bentley manual; the PET should be more correct, although the bolt may also have been superseded, so I would stay with the PET. The torque spec (from the OEM service manual) is correct at 118 ft. lb.
  11. JFP in PA
    #7 is a M14X160 bolt, spec is 118 ft. lb.
  12. JFP in PA
    I would also suggest a front end alignment done by a competent Porsche shop. Considering what started all this, I would also get under the car with a torque wrench and check every non castellated nut for the correct torque specs.
  13. JFP in PA
    I think that if you have an active or pending code, you are toast; but you may want to check the California DMV web site for details on where the lines are on this subject.
  14. JFP in PA
    You should not be using anything but a full synthetic oil in the car. Full synthetics are a different animal than conventional oils; they have lower surface tension, better heat transfer, and much superior film strengths than conventional analogs. They also utilize totally different additive packages and have much longer running lives before they fall out of grade. Using a non synthetic is false economy, you will pay for it in the long run. As for what brands and weight, that is always a topic of conversation, but there is a published list of Porsche approved oils in the document archives.
  15. JFP in PA
    Without the radiators or heater core, the forward cooling system looks like this:
  16. JFP in PA
    Thanks. Item # 4 does not look like the part. I think the bolt I am looking for is # 11. But I will print this out and take it to the car this morning and confirm. FYI, I found these on Porsche.com also. http://www.porsche.com/all/media/pdf/originalparts/usa/996_USA_KATALOG.pdf That is an online copy of the PET, which is their parts catalog.
  17. JFP in PA
    We have seen more than our share of OEM IMS bearings, none of them had any signs of grease left in them, only oil, even though the seals often looked intact. And quite often, the oil was in pretty bad shape.
  18. JFP in PA
    Part # 90037832901 would be item #4 in the diagram. Go to http://www.autoatlanta.com/ website, look up your model and you will find that diagram under the steering/front end section with the part numbers for each item. You can also find the same info if you have access to a Porsche PET. Good luck!
  19. JFP in PA
    I thought it might be easy to spot. See if this helps ID the part you are looking for:
  20. JFP in PA
    You need to start looking at the entire front suspension and steering, giving things a good shake as you go. If something fell off, and now the steering wheel is shaking, I cannot imagine looking at the car and not seeing anything wrong........
  21. JFP in PA
    I agree 100%, get the car up in the air, pull the front wheels and start looking. I also would not be driving the car until it is inspected.
  22. JFP in PA
    Glad you got it worked out. Your comments point to a common misconception about the battery and charging system in modern cars; despite what many say, they do age and lose significant output over time, particularly the battery. This why the bench mark tests for batteries and alternators is how they perform under load. To that end, the standard testing procedure to check out either unit is by using what is called (not surprisingly) a load tester, which puts a heavy drain on each one separately to see how they respond. While the test only takes a few min. to run, it is a fail safe "go/no go" way to determine if it is time for a new battery or alternator. Most competent shops have the equipment to do this, and many serious "DIY" own them as well as they work on anything with a battery and/or a charging system. A decent hand held digital 130 Amp unit sells for around $80-100 over here.
  23. JFP in PA
    It is not critical, but it does make things easier as you don't lose everything from the radio presets, window auto up/down stops, to the DME's learned settings. On some models, you would even lose the gas tank calibration settings, so you would have to empty the tank, refill it with a known amount of fuel and then reprogram the gas gauge so it was correct, which can be a major pain in the butt not to mention very time consuming. Do you have to retain power: No; but it is easier if you do.
  24. JFP in PA
    Which is why I suggested using one of the several makes that has the feature, like the Ctek 7002. In a pinch, there is a $10 "dongle" with a cig lighter end on one side and the two snaps for a 9 V battery on the other that works as well.
  25. JFP in PA
    It cannot be connected to the battery posts as the charge would stay with the battery, not the car; it either has to be connected via the cigarette lighter plug (preferred method), or on the cable ends.
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