Jump to content

Welcome to RennTech.org Community, Guest

There are many great features available to you once you register at RennTech.org
You are free to view posts here, but you must log in to reply to existing posts, or to start your own new topic. Like most online communities, there are costs involved to maintain a site like this - so we encourage our members to donate. All donations go to the costs operating and maintaining this site. We prefer that guests take part in our community and we offer a lot in return to those willing to join our corner of the Porsche world. This site is 99 percent member supported (less than 1 percent comes from advertising) - so please consider an annual donation to keep this site running.

Here are some of the features available - once you register at RennTech.org

  • View Classified Ads
  • DIY Tutorials
  • Porsche TSB Listings (limited)
  • VIN Decoder
  • Special Offers
  • OBD II P-Codes
  • Paint Codes
  • Registry
  • Videos System
  • View Reviews
  • and get rid of this welcome message

It takes just a few minutes to register, and it's FREE

Contributing Members also get these additional benefits:
(you become a Contributing Member by donating money to the operation of this site)

  • No ads - advertisements are removed
  • Access the Contributors Only Forum
  • Contributing Members Only Downloads
  • Send attachments with PMs
  • All image/file storage limits are substantially increased for all Contributing Members
  • Option Codes Lookup
  • VIN Option Lookups (limited)

JFP in PA

Moderators
  • Posts

    8,594
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    190

Everything posted by JFP in PA

  1. Without the reading the codes, it is always a bit of a crap shoot; but your car is displaying the type of faults often associated with either a battery or alternator issue. Get the car scanned for codes, have the battery load tested and check the voltage of the alternator under load, you could just have a voltage regulator on the way out (pretty common).
  2. Just in passing, if you do not know what brand is in the trans, drain it and fill it with the factory gear oil. Many of the complaints we have heard about using aftermarket gear oils involved strange noises; it may not be the entire issue, but it could also be your cheapest solution to at least some of the problem. You should also stay away from light weight flywheels unless you intend to rebalance the entire rotating assembly; lightweight flywheels do not dampen any of the rotating assembly’s harmonics, but a dual mass will.
  3. With enough money, welding equipment and duct tape, anything is possible. That said, what you are suggesting would overly complicate a normally completely functional A/C system, as well as significantly reducing the car’s resale value……
  4. If the AOS is functioning correctly, there should be a low vacuum signal at the oil fill cap, in the range of 5 inches of water. Any higher and the AOS has to be changed as it is on the way out. Most shops have a modified oil cap that connects to either a low range vacuum gauge, or a slack tube manometer for checking the AOS; the slack tube manometer is something anyone can jury rig using some clear flexible tubing and a ruler for the purpose.
  5. Start by checking all the heavy power leads from the battery to the starter and the battery to ground connections, they are a common corrosion point that causes no end of hard to find electrical issues. Even if the cables ends are clean, check the cables for resistance, there should be almost none; if you find resistance, replace the cable(s). All of this can be done with the engine still in the car. You should also be running in the high 13 to low 14V range with the car idling.
  6. Both, the brakes suffer due to lack of vacuum (provides the "power" in power brakes) caused when the AOS craps out, the smoke is oil being pulled into the engine through the failed AOS. It is also why you have a rought idle.
  7. Low vacuum because of AOS failure. Try starting the car and let it idle; while it is running, try to remove the oil filler cap. If it is very hard to remove, your AOS is toast and has to be replaced (do not drive the car in this condition as you could easily hydraulic the engine). Do a search; this is a DIY project................
  8. Yes, that looks like a sensor, as you can clearly see the locking/sealing nut on the stem. Just about every type of shop has TPM system tools these days, particularly tire shops. Many will test for little or even no charge as replacing just one of the sensors is going to generate a lot of revenue for them......
  9. Try: Denny's Driveshafts 1189 Military Road Kenmore, New York 14217 They balance.
  10. I'll repeat what I said about a week ago in reference to an equally bogus PIWIS system............. "From time to time, someone shows up claiming to have an "inexpensive PIWIS clone", usually from China. The funny bit is that the ones that actually work (many simply do not work at all) turn out to be using a ripped off copy of an old Durametric system. With Porsche charging near-housing prices just to lease a PIWIS for a year, people should both be glad that there are entrepreneurial firms like Durametric out there, and supportive of the fact that provide quality products at reasonable prices." How about instead you support the people that support us.............
  11. That is for the in-tank pump (which is also different on the DFI cars), the mechanical high-pressure unit has been an issue and quite a few have been replaced under warranty. No idea what that sells for as no one has had to buy one yet due to warranty coverage, but knowing Porsche, I'll bet it has an eye-watering price tag.............. We have heard (second hand) that the mechanical pump driven off the cams is in the $1K neighborhood, but have no confirmation of that.
  12. Another possible is the fuel pressure regulator either defective of losing vacuum signal.
  13. That may make the P1284 code definition "Prepare to spend serious money" as the fuel pumps in the 2010 997 are going for north of $600......................
  14. RFM is correct, that wheel does not look like it has a TPM sensor in it (the tire valve stem is black rubber instead of threaded metal). Any dealer, or good indy, will have a TPM sensor testing tool and be able to confirm that. Be willing to bet the previous owner tried to disable the TPMS when they put those wheels on the vehicle......
  15. "Castrol Sports Edge" or "Castrol Pro Edge" are unfortuantely not available anywhere in North America due to the addtive package it uses. You sometimes see it "grey market" on the internet selling for $75-100 for a 5 liter bottle. I seriously doubt that BMW would be selling it as the EPA would be having a fit if they did.
  16. From time to time, someone shows up claiming to have an "inexpensive PIWIS clone", usually from China. The funny bit is that the ones that actually work (many simply do not work at all) turn out to be using a ripped off copy of an old Durametric system. With Porsche charging near-housing prices just to lease a PIWIS for a year, people should both be glad that there are entrepreneurial firms like Durametric out there, and supportive of the fact that provide quality products at reasonable prices.
  17. There are several, the only three you really need are the Learning Code, the Immobilizer Code, and the DME programming code. With those, you can do all the programming you will probably ever need.
  18. They look somewhat like greenish rubber bands. I would not reuse these gaskets; fortunately, they are relatively inexpensive.
  19. Have you tried removing the oil cap while the car is running? If the AOS is in good shape, you should be able to remove it without much force, if it takes a lot, the AOS is failing. There is ususally a slight oil film in the connections you mentioned, but not a lot.
  20. When we do a PPI on a car, we tend to list aftermarket lights, and particularly the headlights, as “deduct” items. Sure, the LED’s “look cool” and all, but from a maintenance standpoint aftermarket lights can be a real headache. We have seen everything from electrical issues (including damaged wiring harnesses), brake lights that don’t work properly, strange turn signal issues, to noise in the car’s audio system; and very often replacement parts for these lights are nearly nonexistent or very hard to obtain. We have recently seen some replacement LED headlight assemblies that looked like they were HID projector’s, but were actually halogens that put out less light than the factory units; and leaked water into the unit when the first time the owner washed the car. Sometimes even the installation instructions that come with some of these products are incomplete, make no sense, or are dead wrong. So yeah, they look nice, but sometimes at a cost.
  21. The declutching pulley is very obvious when you look at it because it has a really strange looking fastener that attaches it to the alternator (it is a pair of 12 splined shaft and fastener that requires a special tool to undo, costs about $20 online) I can't help you on the bearings or brushes as we send the units that need them to a local alternator rebuild shop and they install them. You might want to check out similar shops near you for parts as they would have the best handle on what is available.
  22. The basic “rule of thumb” for any make alloy engine is to never allow them to overheat because it causes all sorts of issues such as cylinder head cracking or worse. Does not matter if it is a Honda or a Ferrari, you lose that drive belt and can’t fix it where it stands, call for a tow…………. And all makes of cars break the belts, not just Porsche's.
  23. These engines really hate being over heated; you should have called a tow truck.
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.