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mudman2

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Everything posted by mudman2

  1. mudman2
    It does sound like the shaft still if you say the word "wummering" over and over does that match the vibration pattern ?, also what speeds
  2. mudman2
    Sorry I have to cry BS on this post.. There has never been such a fault in an numbers, the compressor rings go and can be home repaired for less that $50 using VW parts. This sounds like someone whose dealer royally raped them
  3. mudman2
    Its not plug and play and has to be programmed onto the system. The valve body first if I were you
  4. mudman2
    18 should be better on Sand
  5. mudman2
    or if the rear fails it auto switches over to front on second try
  6. mudman2
    it can be coded out using PIWIS at a dealer or an indy if you can find one. it will be about an hours labor. Suspicious that there maybe another device in the system for ipod or phone tho
  7. mudman2
    That's true you have never been able to obtain a Steel Spring TT because they never made one. 03/04 struts had some issues (at least 2 that i know of personally over 130K miles) but it really is the best suspension by far. Once you had it you will never go back to steel (to adapt another phrase)
  8. mudman2
    For all practical purposes I drive in low all the time, I drop to load level to pose hahaha If you drive off in load level it will raise to NORMAL level almost as soon as you start to move, I always catch it and set to low. I use high only when the snow is deep (I don't off road) and High Terrain level when I go thru the car wash since it cleans the sides better I feel. On the freeway the level sets itself anything over 78, no matter what setting you have set, the PSM takes over and adjusts for handling and then restores to normal level when its done.
  9. mudman2
    All I know for sure is when my Tranny control unit was replaced on the 04S I had, they had replaced the transmission under warranty to an 05, they had trouble until they updated software to match on the other systems also
  10. mudman2
    I would be careful, I am not so sure you can just replace the unit without adding it to the system properly. The other software loads must support the version on the control module
  11. mudman2
    You will need to hook up a Durametric or PIWIS to read the error codes
  12. mudman2
    Its a Navtec proprietary format, did not respond to tools available to me, maybe someone else has done it
  13. mudman2
    when the battery starts to go all sorts of strange things start happening, after market batteries are ok, the age is the problem
  14. mudman2
    I would be shocked if that was true
  15. mudman2
    Replace the battery
  16. mudman2
    A high mileage car driven fast, I can see it That's what I used to get while towing when new
  17. mudman2
    One battery is dead, the second insert activates the second battery My guess is that they are original, replace both. You will get more and more false errors as it gets worse. Its time
  18. mudman2
    at that age if the original pumps are still there theres a good chance
  19. mudman2
    fuel pump
  20. mudman2
    OK the last 2 are of the ODB Connector cover, its located above your left foot, drivers side (left seat). its broken off at the edge which is quite common. throw it away, not needed. The first 2 look like a heating vent from under the seat
  21. mudman2
    will stay on for preset period
  22. mudman2
    sound like NO would be the answer unless it was dealer maintained in which case they would have been With no knowledge about service history I would prepare to change the fronts including rotors. Its not a bad job, the rear rotors are another problem If you can get release oil in there a few days prior you will be doing yourself a big favor because the pins will be stuck solid by now, get a decent punch and a big hammer haha
  23. mudman2
    I agree the codes will come back after clearing
  24. mudman2
    You dont give any more info on the car, MY / Mileage, but if the brake warning goes off front, then you may be in luck because you can get 2 pad changes on a set of rotors for sure (although people will disagree) It really depends on the mileage you have done 1st change front about 38K, 2nd change front with Rotors about 70K 1st change rear about 60K 2nd change with Rotors about 120K This is not a guess, I did this on my S and it was fine as a DD, not a racer (well sometimes maybe)
  25. mudman2
    Or you could take it out and drive it like you stole it for 30 minutes, it will do the same thing almost
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