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kbrandsma

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Everything posted by kbrandsma

  1. Oil overfill should be avoided. Excess oil can get pushed into the intake manifold to be burned and you risk extreme carbon deposits on the head surfaces as well as piston crowns which significantly reduce the threshold of detonation. These deposits won't go away. I would strongly recommend that you drain some oil from the tank to the correct level. Just drop the oil filter and that will take care of about about 10 oz. or so. You want the oil to top off at the second to the top mark. The distance between the two marks (arrows) is 1.25 liters or about 42.3 oz. IIRC each mark is about 4-6 oz.
  2. Yes, the serpentine belt must be removed to access the alternator. Anytime the belt is removed a good mechanic will check the condition of the belt, idle pulleys and belt tensioners and recommend replacement if needed. If the used belt is reinstalled the belt must be placed back on the pulleys with the same side edge out. I always mark with a marker an arrow so I can locate the proper edge for reinstallation. A used belt gets a little out of round after use and may jump the tracks or a tensioner if installed wrongside out. I think you got a legitimate beef.
  3. Welcome Marc010 and dragonlover to Renntech! :welcome:
  4. Your PCM 2.1 has three antenna inputs, the black one is for the antenna, tan is diversity, and the green is the video-in. You'll need a female Falkra adaptor to RCA male for the Dynavin unit. Should be port I More info PRESS HERE
  5. It is in the roof spoiler IIRC. I updated my Boxster to a Pioneer double din set-up.
  6. Yes, your going to need to remove the rear door inside back panel and route your wire from license through the top and then up to the front. Here is a video that should help. It's a different model camera to a different HU but does shows one way to route your wire. The model year is not a 2006 but the process should be similar.
  7. Wiring setup for most back-up cameras: * Run a lead from the Dynavin Head Unit (HU) to the rear of the vehicle. Usually a yellow RCA Connector (may also have a white RCA Connector which is audio that is not needed). * Run a lead off the positive reverse light in the rear of the vehicle to the camera (usually red wire on the camera.) * Connect the lead from the HU the lead to the camera (usually yellow RCA to yellow RCA.) * Use the backup light ground for the camera (This is usually a black wire to camera.) IMPORTANT!!! Don't reverse the red and black wires as you will cause serious damage to your backup camera that will not be covered by any warranty. When you put the vehicle in reverse, the HU will briefly show the PDC screen, then automatically switches to the camera feed. When you take it out of reverse the HU will resume ordinary operation. You can also manually turn on the camera moving forward by turning it on with the HU. I use the camera this way most of the time as it removes all of the blind spots that the rearview mirror misses.
  8. Do you need assistance with wiring setup and connections or the best way to route the wiring for your Cayenne?
  9. I have tried replacing the microswitch per this thread on Rennetch: http://www.renntech.org/forums/topic/32406-door-closed-sensor/ I ended up just replacing the entire unit.
  10. Make sure your seat is fully reclined, the motorized controls won't work if the seat is not fully back. You could have a faulty switch. That is usually more common. Some take the switch apart and clean everything and then re-assemble. This is usually easier with the seat removed but not required. If you take the seat out, remove the ignition key, disconnect the negative battery cable to avoid triggering the seatbelt error light. Make sure you place a tray or something when you crack open the switch to catch all the pieces. Some contact parts may need a little cleaning with light sand paper or emery. If you take it apart use a little dielectric grease to hold everything in place. If your not mechanically inclined, contact cleaner can be used as a first step before trying to remove, taking apart and cleaning the switch. Remove the switch out of the seat enough to see the small holes in the switch housing. Using a spray can of contact cleaner (WD40) with the straw type nozzle, spray contact cleaner into the switch and operate the switch back and forth several times in all directions. Reinstall the seat and connect the battery if you removed the seat. Then, using your key turn on accessory power on the ignition switch and try the switch to see if you brought it back to life.
  11. Remove fuse and use an Ohm meter and place positive/red on hot side of fuse holder and negative/black to ground.
  12. Usually Left Front (Yellow+) and (Yellow/Brown -) Right Front (Red +) and (Red/Brown-) Left Door (Green+) and (Green/Brown-) Right Door (Violet+) and (Brown/Violet-) Left Rear (White+) and (White/.Brown-) Right Rear (Blue+) and (Blue/Brown-)
  13. Replace fuse anyway or swap with another. Check power across the fuse to see if it is even hot..
  14. Run thru the bulkhead thru the rubber grommet above the accelerator pedal, under the battery tray and thru a second grommet into the front trunk. Remove the trunk carpet liner and run behind passenger light assembly and then into the fender liner. I penetrated a grommet next to the existing one. Cut an X with a razor knife and then seal with chaulk before you put carpet back. Fasten with zip ties to existing wires to make it look nice. Then remove the battery and tray it is attached to and run the cable in the moat and enter the cabin via the rubber grommet behind the battery on the driver's side. The grommet opens into the cabin right above the gas pedal. Careful pushing things thru as you can also push the grommet thru. I think it is better to have a partner help you with this.
  15. I would open up the key fob, remove the immobilizer pill and try reinserting it. Do you have another key? Valet key?
  16. I updated the link. For more information run a search on this site or click HERE
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