mikefocke

Always good to hear a cheap win for the good guys.

Years ago I wrote up all the options I had heard of. https://sites.google.com/site/mikefocke2/what-can-you-do-if-your-engine-is-blown Some of the prices may be out of date but their relative cost is probably in the right ballpark.

How old are the tires (date code on sidewall)? I presume new battery.

The LN bearing is probably not one of the life-of-the-car type ("The Solution") but has a replacement interval recommended. So just because it has been replaced don't assume it is good. Not suggesting that is the cause....

Source for the display https://914rubber.com/986-and-996-climate-control-lcd-screen-replacement-kit

Scroll down it at the very bottom. Mike is a collector and organizer of things but the Boxterra should get the real credit.

Fuses at least. mikefocke2 - fuzeboxforan'01s SITES.GOOGLE.COM Fuse Box for an '01 S Actually fo4r more than just that year.

Since you asked, this was posted by a user many years ago and I snaged it. The O2 sensors do just that, sense the amount of O2 in the exhaust gas relative to the amount of O2 in ambient air. Perfect combustion of a perfect mixture of air and fuel (around 14.7/1 air/fuel ratio) leaves behind only CO2 and water as products of combustion. All the oxygen gets consumed in the combustion and combines with all the carbons and hydrogens. If there is not enough fuel (lean mixture), then all the fuel gets burned leaving some oxygen left over. Conversely, if there is too much fuel (rich mixture), then all the oxygen gets burned leaving behind extra hydrocarbons (fuel). Now an oxygen sensor outputs a voltage between 0 and about 1 V depending on the difference between the amount of oxygen in the exhaust and the amount of oxygen in normal air. If there is a lot of oxygen in the exhaust (lean mixture condition), the sensor outputs close to 0 volts. Conversely, if there is no oxygen in the mixture (rich condition), then the output is close to 1 V. These O2 sensor voltages are read by the computer. This is the feedback loop that tells the computer how the engine is performing with regard to air/fuel mixture. It's impossible for the computer to hold the exact perfect air/fuel mixture constantly, so the way mixture control is designed is for the computer to continually adjust the mixture from very slightly rich to very slightly lean and back again using feedback from the pre-cat O2 sensors. This means that the pre-cat O2 sensor signal will oscillate back and forth from high to low to high to low voltage as the computer adjusts the mixture. In a normal running engine at idle the signal goes from low to high voltage and vice versa about every 1 second, with a transit time from low to high (or vice versa) being about 200-300 milliseconds. This transit time is important because as an O2 sensor ages, the transit time gets longer, and eventually it can get too long such that the computer will call it a malfunction and signal a check engine light and fault code for a slow responding O2 sensor. O2 sensors need to respond to mixture changes quickly so that the computer can keep up with the proper mixture adjustments. So the bottom line is that the pre-cat O2 sensors should oscillate between about 0.2 to 0.8 volts regularly (about every 1 second at idle) in a healthy engine. The post-cat O2 sensors are identical to the pre-cat O2 sensors (same voltage outputs). They are there only to monitor the performance of the catalytic converters. So, as discussed, the pre-cat sensor signals are oscillating between 0.2-0.8 volts. Once the exhaust gasses pass through the catalytic converter, most (all, in theory) excess fuel (hydrocarbons) will be combusted thus reducing hydrocarbon emissions. The cat uses oxygen in the exhaust to combust the fuel. So what you end up with in the exhaust after passing through the cat is a gas mixture that is reduced in hydrocarbons and reduced in oxygen relative to the mixture entering the cat. The post-cat exhaust gas mixture should be CONSTANTLY low in oxygen if the cat is doing its job of burning excess fuel. Therefore, the post-cat O2 sensor signal should be a constant lower voltage reading (not oscillating). So, if the post-cat O2 sensor is seen to oscillate just like the pre-cat O2 sensor, that means that the post-cat sensor is seeing the same gas mixture as the pre-cat sensor meaning that the catalytic converter isn't doing its job of burning excess fuel. The computer monitors the post-cat sensor and compares it to the pre-cat sensor. If the signals are similar, it assumes the cat is bad.

Air Oil Separator (AOS) while the engine is out is easier. If racing, deep sump and or sump baffles. Engine and transmission mounts. Alignment afterwards.

Recall we are talking about cars that are ~20 years old now. Maintenance history? Maintainer experience? Maintainer tools and documentation? Multiple owners? Storage conditions? Etc. And on a forum, you seldom see postings from those that don't have any problems. True of any make and model. And JFP sees more and more difficult problems than an individual would ever see.

With the price of decent running older boxsters I'm not sure it makes any sense to do anything but parting out the one you have. Now if the exterior and interior were pristine and all it was was a motor swap, it makes sense. But with that much needed I can see you investing too much in that chassis. Going to a different engine means needing much more than just swapping an engine. Electrical differences. Axle and transmission differences. And finding one in good shape with low miles is getting more difficult.

I've communicated with JFP publicly and privately on Boxster subjects for probably 15 years and I have never seen a single sign of his attempting to make a penny. I know he had a shop, knew the general location but never knew even the name of the shop or its exact location. Which is startling in this day and age of self promotion. He offers insights freely and for free. How he manages to avoid burnout is well beyond my understanding.

CDR 220 Serial number 15064560

A 3.2 1998? The '98s were all 2.5s from the factory.

So was the pulley old or was it something mechanical with the idler pulleys that caused it to go bad? Those things are good for mile and miles. We are searching for cause and effect here so you don't shred another one.

The panel JFP is talking about is a vertical panel that will show you the belt and the items that direct it. As he has said, just slide the seats forward, tilt them forward, remove the carpet on the rear firewall behind the seats and lo and behold there will be an obvious easy access panel that lets you see the front of the engine. Don't have to do a thing with the top to get at the belt or idler pulleys and they can be replaced without the top up. You may find some info on the top mechanisms here. thetop-itsmaintaince&replacement - mikefocke2 SITES.GOOGLE.COM

Lola, the typical issue has been grounding. https://sites.google.com/site/mikefocke2/airbagwarninglighttsb My '01 went to the dealer three times before they got it right. The last two were on them.

You looked at the PET pages 280 and following deals with the dash

There must be as many opinions as there are P-car owners. For more than you ever wanted to know, visit https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/

https://sites.google.com/site/mikefocke2/airbagwarninglighttsb has some thoughts on diagnosis as well.

Spinlocks.

I did the sill protector thing on one of mine but elected to have a ****** aluminum one that wolled over the painted enge. I was buying for protection as I tended to drag my feet over there as I got in. I bought from a small supplier here in the US IIRC. I did see what seemed to be the ones in your picture at several US dealers when I googled. Click on the more pictures and see if you don't find something. I presume you posted the same question on boxsa.net which is a UK site.

google "boxster door sill UK"

boxa.net may give you a source for the part that is more local. It is UK based.

suggest you ask on Boxa.net as that forum is UK based. Sources are bound to be too. In the US, Crutchfield,com is a source for parts and instructions.