Jump to content

Welcome to RennTech.org Community, Guest

There are many great features available to you once you register at RennTech.org
You are free to view posts here, but you must log in to reply to existing posts, or to start your own new topic. Like most online communities, there are costs involved to maintain a site like this - so we encourage our members to donate. All donations go to the costs operating and maintaining this site. We prefer that guests take part in our community and we offer a lot in return to those willing to join our corner of the Porsche world. This site is 99 percent member supported (less than 1 percent comes from advertising) - so please consider an annual donation to keep this site running.

Here are some of the features available - once you register at RennTech.org

  • View Classified Ads
  • DIY Tutorials
  • Porsche TSB Listings (limited)
  • VIN Decoder
  • Special Offers
  • OBD II P-Codes
  • Paint Codes
  • Registry
  • Videos System
  • View Reviews
  • and get rid of this welcome message

It takes just a few minutes to register, and it's FREE

Contributing Members also get these additional benefits:
(you become a Contributing Member by donating money to the operation of this site)

  • No ads - advertisements are removed
  • Access the Contributors Only Forum
  • Contributing Members Only Downloads
  • Send attachments with PMs
  • All image/file storage limits are substantially increased for all Contributing Members
  • Option Codes Lookup
  • VIN Option Lookups (limited)

magcuda

Members
  • Posts

    312
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by magcuda

  1. I would guess this works on all 993s You need the card with the bar code and the immo numbers This is a PIA procedure, it will take a few tries as the timing has to be perfect 993 Immo.pdf
  2. sounds like you have a vacum leak or your idle switch needs adjusting
  3. I agree, the clutch center hub has come apart some guys will say go to standard spring model clutch but that does take some modification this isn't a job you want to do on jackstands
  4. the tach jumping in older 911s is a sign of a charging system problem it could be over charging to the point where it shuts it down you need to rig a volt meter to see what is going on when the tach starts jumping
  5. quite q bit of difference, I have attached a picture of each
  6. have you tried pushing up on the top while pushing the button to try and make it contact a micro swx? or you can try pull it down on the top with the button pushed, there is micro swxs on each closing motors that start the locking motors to engage the windshield frame worst comes to worst, you can use a long thin flat blade screwdriver to manula close the locking motors I believe the procedure is in the owners manual
  7. these are a different breed of animal to pull the transaxle the rear suspension comes out first if you don't want to do that and are still pulling the motor, loosen the trans mounts and push the trans as far to the rear it will go, along with the torque tube. this gives the clearance to lift the motor straight up and out. the front crossmember is welding in so you can't get that out of your way go to www.cannell.co.uk/Manuals.htm for more info
  8. the body is steel, where are you getting the aluminum body/frame?
  9. you need to get with the chip manufacturer and tell them this problem the has the MAP in it
  10. IXXI has about covered it all I agree the 915 box is a pig, but needs some getting used to the one thing you want to try to do is shift in to first only at a standing stop this will make the first gear syncro teeth last much longer
  11. you can't find a used motor? I think that would cost a lot less and still keep an air cooled wide body on the road
  12. just a FYI, BMW released this bulletin on beating on the rotors to get them off it seems that beating on the rotors is making the wheel bearing fail prematurely and want this puller used instead REMOVE_ROTOR.pdf
  13. "But I also noticed on that test info icon that the "bleeding screw" must be opened prior to perform the brake bleeding command,i don't have any ideea which screw it has to be opened?" then step away from the car, good god man these are your brakes!!!!! not a new tire shine or wax
  14. if the gauge is pegged then you have a problem with the sender and or wiring there was a superceded oil pressure relief valve to lower the oil pressure they though it would help with oil leaks your car should already have this, it was usually installed when the oil cooler seals were replaced
  15. I don't know if it still in there but when I was at the dealer roadside would cover "lost keys" but I agree with xmw, if you want to play, you gotta pay
  16. a CIS fuel dist. sitting that long has to be gummed up, go with a rebuilt
  17. you need to find a manual for this, the fuel injection is quirky and the wiring is of poor design the wiring is similar to a 944 type 1 there are a lot of parts sources, just google it
  18. the fuel system would really worry me drain the tank, if there is any gas or what the gas has turned in to flush the lines and change the fuel filter looks like it is in good shape, take your time and go through the fuel system and the oil change like Loren suggested it will save $$ in the long run and make the car enjoyable
  19. the little filter is for the valve train and is changed at 30k mile intervals
  20. Low speed idle and put away isn't really good on the engine. this is very true as you will get fuel contamination in the oil
  21. I can't read that position in my 993 file but in 964 it says it is in the center console I thought it was behind the oil temp/pressure gauge hope I am not sending you on a wild goose chase
  22. 1 bar = ~ 14.7 psi 10 psi to every 1000 rpm has been a long standing rule of thumb
  23. the weld has broken that holds the door stop, it need to be rewelded easiest way is from the door jam, a good welder can keep it looking ok then the door jam needs to be repainted, I would find some one in your area that has done it before
  24. the bolts you are after are inside the defroster vents, the vents come out then the bolts are removed you might try a dash cap, I have seen them in Perf products
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.