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logray

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Everything posted by logray

  1. logray
    ...although some say perhaps the very early dual row (1997~2000/2001) and the later 2005+ engines through 2009 before DFI are perhaps less susceptible to failure (and LNE and F6I have both commented that they see the most failures from the smallest and weakest 2001-2004 single row bearings).
  2. logray
    The 9A1 was introdcued on the 911's in 2009 (997 mk2), for sale late 2008.
  3. logray
    Before diving into other possibilities I would try to remount the wheels. Pay very close attention that they are mounted square and flush. I've misaligned wheels before and experienced what you describe. All it takes is just a very small amount off square.
  4. logray
    +1 to above post. I've personally encountered a situation where my fuel level sender is shot, even after following the factory procedure per JFP's post with a PST2 I received an error that my level sender was beyond limits and could no longer be calibrated. There are other possibilites as well though, from misrouted hoses in the fuel tank (TSB was issued, mostly for earlier model years IIRC), to malfunctioning valves and flaps, and perhaps even a faulty instrument cluster.
  5. logray
    Good thing the lens is inexpensive if you break it. Ask me how I know this. ;)
  6. logray
    Welcome to rt.org from a fellow nor cal neighbor. Sorry, disconnecting will not likely fix this problem on a c2, spend some time with search here there are many possibilities for a low fuel indication on fill up. I don't recall there being a cover on top of the cabing filter (under the cowling that is secured by a torx fastener).
  7. logray
    The older caps are known to leak, the -00 part numbers especially. I encountered one of these on a Boxster at an autocross just this last weekend in fact. You can normally see tell tale evidence of coolant that has leaked out near the cap and has been leaking through the overflow tube and burning off on top of the coolant tank. It could also be due to improper threading (cross threading) or undertightening of the cap. Similarly, you can normally see if the tank is leaking, when you shine a good flashlight on it you should be able to see the evidence of coolant leaking out and burning off (you'll see a crusty yellow or brownish fluid from where the fluid is eminating).
  8. logray
    Unless you are changing pads freqeuently or just don't have that many miles on them, if the pads are worn down enough to need replacing, chances are the rotors are going to be beyond the wear limit as well. If you are in doubt (or always), use a micrometer on them or remove the rotors and take them to your nearest machine shop to be measured (and then turned if they are still within spec). Machine shops (and auto parts stores who turn rotors) will measure your rotors for free if you do not have a micro meter.
  9. logray
    Sounds like you might have a failing or failed baffle inside your muffler. Or perhaps a loose exhaust bolt somewhere. Have someone start the car cold while you are looking at and holding the muffer, it should become apparent where the noise is coming from.
  10. logray
    Good to know thanks.
  11. logray
    The HF unit can also release pressure before disconnecting. I had the same concern with my kit JFP, so I put a big ptouch label on the box: FOR FUEL ONLY!
  12. logray
    Maybe it's just me, but typically I use my pads to the point where either the rotors are shot OR they need to be resurfaced (and then replaced if they cannot be turned). I tried replacing pads once on a differnent car without turning the rotors and it worked fine, but unscientically I don't think the pads lasted quite as long as with new or turned rotors. If you have a couple sets of pads and swap often, (example track, autocross, etc) perhaps a different story... If you experience any shimmy or unusual braking then certainly rotors are going to be suspect.
  13. logray
    Progress, we hope.
  14. logray
    IIRC the purge valves operate when engine is hot.
  15. logray
    The spin on filter adapter is only for the Cayman, Boxster, and 911.
  16. logray
    I breifly scanned the wiring diagram for a 99 and couldn't find conclusive info. The only advice I might have at this point is to test the voltage at the evap valve at the engine near the intake manifold, does it read 12v? I can't see why the valve near the tank would require different voltage. Also, 7v does not sound right under any situatoin on this car. You should have 12v or 5v. But not 7.4. Sorry to say, but if it is supposed to provide and is not providing 12v and the problem is not with wiring, your DME would probably be suspect at this point. PIn 61 on ME 5.2.2 is for the tank vent valve. I would do more testing, research and perhaps get some more input before swapping your DME.
  17. logray
    You can take a tape measure between the top center of the wheel fender arches to the ground. if it is anywhere close to 25" to 27" it is lowered and will not be as soft and comfortable as the stock ride (when the components are in good shape). Make sure your tire pressure is proper, it has a BIG affect on ride comfort. 44 on the rears and 36 for the fronts (cold at 70F). Also I've read that some people replace the seat foam with good results, keep in mind you are driving an 11 year old car. Try sitting in any 11 year old car and tell me what your opinion is again. ;-) Certainly +1 to Doug's comments, this is a raw sports car, and not a luxury ride.
  18. logray
    I like this one, it has the slime on one side and also a nice gauge. Good product. I wouldn't classify it as mini, but it is smallish for a compressor that has so many features. http://www.tirerack.com/accessories/detail.jsp?ID=38
  19. logray
    Hi there. Sorry no TSBs are not freebies like a recall or any work performed while under warranty. A TSB covers situations that were not explained by the original shop manuals, and have been experienced by the field or engineering team. In most situations they cover very specific problems affecting only certain cars (and in most cases only applicable when said problem is encountered or observed). Dealer and free normally aren't used in the same sentence, that being said for a variety of cars I've owned I've actually received "freebies", but typically only after building a relationship or while other "paid" work is being performed. You can call your local dealer and provide them with your vin number to see if it is eligible for any "free" work under current recall "campaigns".
  20. logray
    This all looks good and nice job documenting your procedure, but a few things for future reference, in my opinion. Perform DME adaption per workshop manual (WSM) procedure Since the battery was disconnected for such a long duration, the previous maps were unlearned so there shoud be no need to perform adaption again. Remove the fuel pump fuse and crank the engine - to pre-circulate oil (I did 2 x 10 sec bursts with 20seconds in-between) If you are going to do this I recommend pulling the plugs first. With the plugs in the bearings will be loaded, and if you are doing this to build pressure and lubrication, then the compression will be working against what you are trying to accomplish with this procedure. Allow to idle for 5-10mins to warm engine and complete DME adaptation I would not let the car idle for more than 5 minutes on a cold start. Get the car up to operating temp as quickly as possible by driving off after just a few minutes. Drive without going above 4000 rpm, preferrably in the 2500-3500 rpm range until the engine reaches the first mark below the "180". Then drive normally.
  21. logray
    20 minutes really? I guess for the level sender R&R, but what about the distributor/plenum? Certainly not 20 minute job. :)
  22. logray
    Great work!
  23. logray
    Cool, well... sounds like you got it sorted.
  24. logray
    You might notice snappier throttle response (read touchy throttle) since typically a remap will advance ignition timing, but it certainly won't translate to extra HP. If you have warm air intake a remap can trick the MAF into thinking it is getting colder air, again not going to translate to more HP. In other words, in most cases, it's not worth the money unless you've poured multile thousands on other upgrades to compliment.
  25. logray
    I have a spare one just for that purpose (you can also use a 1/4" brass hose repair kit from home depot in the mean time). The part number is 99610622652, about $5 (and IIRC this subject just came up here recently as well).
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