binger

JFP is right on track! If the O2 sensors pass the next thing to test the CAT. I think you be better off going to a professional for this. The best test for that is whats known as the Intrusive test. On Porsche its not Intrusive because the MFG has a bolt hole to test from. Also I am not a fan of aftermarket CATs or sensors because they are not made with as tight specs. as OEM. Also most aftermarket CATs are smaller and do not have as much precious metals in them to work like OEM. When I was doing smog related repairs if the car owner would not let me use OEM parts I would pass on the job period. There is an old saying you get what you pay for. You cant skimp on aftermarket CATs or sensors for Porsche and even Honda as there specs are as tight as Porsche and will throw P0430 codes all day long.

If you want pristine cars of that vintage you need to come to California! :)

Did you try Aeromotive connectors and wiring harnesses yet? Here is there website http://www.aeromotiv...connectors.html.

I concur what JFP is saying. You need a Manometer that reads in inches of water. This is also a great tool for diagnosing and fixing EVAP systems. Analog gauge Series 2000 mdl 2030 $63.00 http://www.dwyer-inst.com/Product/Pressure/DifferentialPressure/Gages/Series2000/Ordering For my digital gauge, mdl 478A-1 $87.00 http://www.dwyer-inst.com/Product/Pressure/Manometers/Digital/Series476A-478A/Ordering

You cant get any more ATF in the trans because you are not following the proper service procedure. You need to make a simple filling tool and pump ATF in the fill plug on the transmission. See DIY below and go to step # 14 though step #19. The second DIY has some better pictures of the tool and detailed fill procedure. Hope this helps. http://www.renntech.org/forums/tutorials/article/310-v8-automatic-transmission-fluid-and-filter-change/ http://www.renntech.org/forums/tutorials/article/307-cayenne-valve-body-replacement-diy/

Hi Guys, I emailed Wayne direct and received this reply this morning. If you cant wait for Amazon you will have to buy it direct form Pelican parts. " Hi Bing. We should have 1000 in stock on Monday or Tuesday!!!" -Wayne Wayne R. Dempsey CEO, Pelican Parts Inc.

Hi Devin, There are lots of sources to choose from. https://www.google.com/search?q=oil+filter+magnet&ie=utf-8&oe=utf-8&aq=t&rls=org.mozilla:en-US:official&client=firefox-a&channel=sb http://www.jegs.com/i/FilterMAG/384/RA300/10002/-1?CAWELAID=1710519737&catargetid=230006180000514970&cadevice=c&&cagpspn=pla&gclid=CNXv9unb4bwCFYeEfgodIHwACQ https://www.expeditionexchange.com/filtermag/

Hi Creekman, I use this company for looms and hard to find connectors. Here is there website http://www.aeromotive.us/product_connectors.html. good luck.

Imagine the long USB cable hooked up to a tower so that it can reach multiple bays, and the tower to a large flat screen that can be swiveled so you can see it, makes life really easy, particularly when the tower is connected to your backup server that stores copies of client data files................. :thumbup: Now if you connected the Durametric cable's USB plug into a wireless bridge with power for the USB port, and the tower on the other end setup to receive the signal, you could make the leap to a wireless connection. Of course with the flat screen TV professional setup like you have, I can definitely see that :) I did think about the wireless brige with powered USB port setup like you said. Just never had the time to make one yet. Also, the stock (short) cable will still dangle from the dongle even with that setup. It would be nice if Durametric comes out with something similar to those low-profile bluetooth dongles that completely eliminate any cord. I have several OEM scan tools that have bluetooth dongles I never use them. Bluetooth may be for looking at PIDs but coding/locking modules no way! I guess I am also too lazy to unplug my ethernet cable from the pass though tool. Call me old school but hardwired is the only way to go. What are you going to do when OBD III shows up? No connector plug to hardwire to.................... :help: Yes big brother looking at all of us and telling you and I when to get service or better yet impounding your car for not doing it when your told. I know its around the corner but you also know the MFGs will always have a hard wire backdoor. They know if you if you loose connectivity in the middle of flashing/coding a DME module it will become a $$$$$ brick. Until WiFi/Bluetooth networks are 100% I dont think the MFGs want the responsibility of picking up the cost of that. :oops:

Imagine the long USB cable hooked up to a tower so that it can reach multiple bays, and the tower to a large flat screen that can be swiveled so you can see it, makes life really easy, particularly when the tower is connected to your backup server that stores copies of client data files................. :thumbup: Now if you connected the Durametric cable's USB plug into a wireless bridge with power for the USB port, and the tower on the other end setup to receive the signal, you could make the leap to a wireless connection. Of course with the flat screen TV professional setup like you have, I can definitely see that :) I did think about the wireless brige with powered USB port setup like you said. Just never had the time to make one yet. Also, the stock (short) cable will still dangle from the dongle even with that setup. It would be nice if Durametric comes out with something similar to those low-profile bluetooth dongles that completely eliminate any cord. I have several OEM scan tools that have bluetooth dongles I never use them. Bluetooth may be for looking at PIDs but coding/locking modules no way! I guess I am also too lazy to unplug my ethernet cable from the pass though tool. Call me old school but hardwired is the only way to go.

your going to be doing a lot of running back and forth. You dont really want to be that far away. They make that cable for shops that put there laptop on a cart to roll around. Just be aware your going to get your exercise.

If you have paint over spray the best thing to use is detailing clay.

http://www.durametric.com/buyus.aspx

Without anymore info you can not correctly diagnose your issue without throwing "wasting" more money at it. Your in San Diego? I would look at the renntech tool registry to see if anyone near you can scan your car. see the link below. http://www.renntech.org/forums/topic/21656-pst2-piwis-durametric-tool-registry/

Just Uninstall .NET V4.0 and get the free download of V3.5 from Durametric website.

I agree with JFP, Its hard to help with out any proper data. Soft codes or not it will give all of us a direction to point you in. Also what scan tool are you using?

Sounds like you did not really get a proper PPI by a Porsche qualified tech. As Loren said you need to find a new shop!

I agree with fpb111 regarding date codes especially on Porsche. I also think a lot of us take for granted what speeds we really drive. I dont know if you have ever had a high speed blowout? I can tell you from experience its no fun! It can even kill you. If you cant find a matching set of Michelin Pilot Sport A/S I would not mix tread patterns or MFGs. Thats my 2 cents worth, see the tire below that shot me across the freeway and almost flipped my car @ 90MPH. One of the most important parts on the car we all try and skimp out on. Just buy a new set of tires your car will also drive better.

It could If the trunk latch has an open circuit,short to + or short to ground. It could cause issue with the locking and security system. I would start looking at the switch to prove its working correctly. Then check the connectors and the wiring to start.

What changed before that 6 month period when everything worked? Did you change the battery in the car or add any aftermarket stuff? Do you have access to durametric scan tool? I would scan to see if you have any codes that point you in a better direction. I could be something in the body control module is not communicating.

I am glad you found the root cause and solved the issue! If you look back on my second post that was one of my first questions. You just experienced how aftermarket installers that do not know what they are doing can cause really hard problems to solve. Also how much time and money did you end up putting out because of there lack of knowledge?

Hi Bobby, You have two options. 1. Drill bit extension http://www.lowes.com/Drills-Drill-Bits/Drill-Bits-Drill-Bit-Sets/Drill-Bit-Extensions/_/N-1z0yhr0/pl#! 2. Long drill bit. http://www.amazon.com/DEWALT-DW1606-4-Inch-12-Inch-Extra/dp/B00004RGYN

Hi Tampa996, Here is the firing order for 911.

I would not recommend turning the fastener clockwise as it will tighten and a possibility of shearing it off. If you use the proper tools you will not have any issues.

Before working on any SRS system (Airbag) remove the negative terminal side on the battery and wait at least 15 minutes for the capacitor to fully bleed off power. If your not comfortable working on complex electrical components. I would leave it to a professional that works on airbag systems. With that said see below. You need a T30 Torx bit that is 3" in length. and a 1/4"drive ratchet. You have to fineness the bit in to the fastener and carefully get it out without stripping the head. On Porsche steering wheels the bit will be on a slight angle and you need to be sure you have seated it all the way to the fastener. Also Do not ever use a impact driver on any SRS system (Airbag)!! Also do not get with in 11 1/2" of the airbag as it can really hurt or even kill you at that distance. With the proper tools it will break it loose.