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frenchy

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Everything posted by frenchy

  1. Any recommendation on race seat for a boxster? The GT3 are great but ridiculesly expensive (1600$ each). Anything that is not a pain to put in and remove once I'm done autocrossing. Frenchy
  2. I've recently got a new engine (bran new from Germany). I have a 2000 manual, and Porche ran out of "2000 manual engine" so they shipped a "2000 automatic engine". The dealer had to keep the wireing harnest from my old engine. So one thing for sure is that you need a different wireing harnest. Were are you from? I tought that the US was the kingdom of the torque converter.... My opinion, sell the car and buy an other one with a manual trasmission. It will endup costing you more than having bought a new one. Jean
  3. Did they upgraded the software of your ECU? There is a technical buleting that mention that. If you go from a 00 version to the new 01, the ECU need to be reflashed with a newer software version that can deal with the different reading that the 01 will provide. I had the same problem that you had, I think that that idle control valve was the problem (dust, rust so it become sticky... the dealer chnage the whole throttle body (I have a E-gas car) Frenchy
  4. It is a lot of job because they have to drop the transmission. Go and "shop" around. If you go to a 3rd party shop (a non-dealer) make sure that they use the newest version of the RMS and also that they use the special tool make specifically to put it in place. But most important, make sure that you have a garantee that it is going to last (I think Porche dealers have to garantee the work for 2 years unlimmited miles) In my case they replaced that seal 5 times in the last 2 years..... and ended up giving me a new engine. Do a search on the board. Toopants posted pictures of the tool so you know what to ask for if you get a quote from an independant. Jean "Platinum member" of the RMS club
  5. Well, this is what you might end up with if you use the same technique on the wife
  6. Usually it means that it did not arm properly because the was something that was not close (trunk, engine comparment...) In my case, most of the time it is the console between the seats that has not been "slammed" properly. Jean
  7. There is a Tech Buletin on that topic (Loren probably has it in the TB section). I just ran in the same issue last week. I bought the new microswitch (they redisigned it so it is more "dust proof") and got it at the dealer for 5$. Now, just need to take the tunnel lining out. I'll wait for Aileen to show up in at the next hack day, she can take that apart in less than 5 minutes with all the practice she got with the B&M shifter upgrade) :-) Jean
  8. The question still stand, which seal? One thing for sure it is not the rear main seal, or the quote would have been more in the order of 1350$ not 350$.....
  9. Humm, I think this is going to be difficult. I have a '00 with traction controll (so I can't talk about PSM, but I assume that it will be the same case). And the big difference between a 00' car with traction controll and one without (beside the electronic) is that the car without traction controll have a "3 ways" braking system and the one with traction system have a "4 ways". In order to be able to controll individual wheels, you need a break line for earch wheels. In the non traction controll cars (might have change after 2000 but this is the case on mine) the rear wheels are controll with only one brake line (same ammounth of pressure for both sides.... so adding traction controll means adding a additional brake line (plus probably changing the ABS controll unit...) And frankly, traction controll is not that great. PSM is supposetly much better.... Frenchy
  10. The DME is ~500$ (for a rebuilt one with "core" exchange), a new one is ~1000$.
  11. Is the AC on? There a normal "slight" dribble on the idle when the AC in on. If not, your idle control valve might be bad. I had that problem and my car wa in the shop a couple of times to fix it (the dribble was bad). They first change the MAP sensor but that did not fix it. So they finally change the whole "e-gas" throttle body and that fixed the problem. I know there is a thread on the Tech Forum on the Porsche Club of NA that discuss that problem. apparently the idle control valve get rusted and "stick". It sounds that you can just change that part.... but in my case the dealer change the whole thing. Frenchy P.S. this applies to e-gas, not sure for cable operated throttle body.
  12. That something that alway intrigued me. The US is the only country in the world that still use the "Imperial" system (well they "tweak" the gallon since there are Imperial and US gallon) but they were the first country that became independant of the British empire....
  13. Porsche marketing did a great job on that web site, the 3D animations are really well done. When you choose the "engine" animation, you can almost see the RMS leak ! Jean
  14. It is not that difficult to remove the "cable cluster", I've done it a few weeks agon when my rear trunk cable snap. I use my bicycle Allen key kit... Didi not even need to remove the seat. There are plastic plugs that cover the hole (4 I think) then lossen the bolt and pull on the cable cluster. Jean
  15. The "VX" at the ends mean that you had (like me) a rebuilt engine. I do not know what they reuse, the the engine casing looks new aluminum to me... Maybe the crankshaft is a "old one".... Jeff, question for you: What is a "rebuilt" engine?
  16. The fifth makes the charm! I got a new engine this week, my boxster had gone through 5 RMS and 1 Intermediate shaft seal. So this time, Porche decided to give me a "new" engine. Seals replaced at: 30K 38K 49K 50K 57K Last time, they had to add an dye in the oil in order to "trace" the leak. I guess that it had leaked so many time that they needed a color trace to validade where it came from. Hopefully this one will last. The guys at the dealer (Keith and Dennis ) were extra nice (in spite the fact that I was... let say... not in a good mood... and I'm French... so you can imagine). So thumb up Steven's Creek Porche!
  17. Well in addition to the fact that it is fully synthetic oil, do not forget that there is almost 10 quarts of oil in the system, so twice as much as a cars of the engine volume. So I expect the oil to last twice as long since you pack twice as much. Jean
  18. I'm schedule to fly at noon, but I will swing by before going to the airport. I have a squeaky clutch that need some diagnosticing JF
  19. It is a 2000 boxster.... Well the sound really comes from the back (I had the interior clutch spring replaced about a hear ago because it was squeaking). I will jack the car tonight and ask someone to pucp the clutch while I'm under the car. Jean
  20. Hi Guys Well this time it is my clutch that squeaks. The noise comes from the back and sounds like when you rub a window after spraying some windex on it. It makes that squeaking noise when I press the clutch and when I release. Beside the noise, the clutch works great, no slip. It started yesterday when I left work. I notice that the clutch pedal felt a bit weird (like spongy) when I depress it in order to start the car, then I notice the soudn. After a couple of pump the weird spongy feeling was gone but the noise is still there. Any idea what it could be? If the bearing were worn I think I would feel a vibration or a noise comming from the clutch when the engine is running and the clutch depress, but like I said . the only time that the noise is present is when I press and release. Could it be the slave cylinder on the clutch? Air in the clutch hydrolic system? ( I flushed the clutch a month or so ago, and I might not have tighten the nipple hard enough... of scare of stripping it) Maybe the shaft or the pivot point (where the bearing slide/rocket arm move) need some greasing?) I have a history of a few RMS leaks, I have not notice oil leak (just the "normal" sweetage, so maybe there is engine oil on the bearing...) So any idea? Jean
  21. You can get a clutch "kit" (friction disk, pressure plate, bearing) from Sunset who has really good price for a Porsche dealer: http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?a...ent&code=sunset (they can FedEx it to you) Otherwise, you can shop on the internet and find a comparable one (p.s. Porche does not manufacture clutch, they buy it from a 3rd party like Satch) For "performance" clutch, you might want to send a email to "thelion", he probably has the least "stock" Boxster on the board and I'm sure he can recommend one for you. Jean
  22. Driving "hard" is not usually the problem ( We do drive our car prety hard at autoX and time trial). What is usually the problem is slipping the clutch. I have to admit that the smell of a "slipped" clutch is kind of bad.... Toolpant has a picture of a clutch taken from a car that had to be towed in to get the clutch replaced. The friction material was down to the rivets. Jeff, can you post that picture? Jean
  23. Bad timing Jeff! The 20th I'll be taking off at 8h am and be heading in your direction in order to perform a few looping and barrel roll above you house. I could swing by after. I need to flush my brake fluid (so bring you powerbleeder) Madame No Fear, I could buy you one of your many container of "blue stuff" brake fluid... Jean
  24. Let me know how it went I have a similar problem (mine does not drop at all, it is probably the "O" ring that broke down (so the window is a little bit lose). JF
  25. You might want to add a brake fluid/Clutch flush, if they are going to repalce the brake they will have access to the bleed nipples, and flushing the clutch is prety hard when the car is not on a lift (unless you work for Cirque du Soleil). The bake job is kind of costly on the parts (~ 200$ each brake pad/rotor set) If you have time, you might ant to "shop" on the internet for a better deal. http://www.sunsetimports.com/porscheatcost.htm Is a place that we use down here. They are a Porsche dealer that is willing to sell for less when you are not in their market (i.e. Oregon). They carry everithing you will need, including the polyrib belt. You could possibly save 70$ by not buying the "charcoal" polen filter (if you change it, go for the "cheap" paper one). I alway wonder why they would fit a polen filter in a convertible...? ( I assume that it is the same ventilation system that the one used on 996, so they did not bother creating a new "SKU" without polen filter for the Boxster). Oil, sometime Kragen or Pepboys are running promotions. Go and buy your 12 quarts of oil in advance. Mobile 1 0W40 cost a lot, so stock it when it is cheaper. Jean
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