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larez2

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Everything posted by larez2

  1. larez2
    Does the car drive and shift ok? When the "D" and "4" flash like that it means that the tiptronic control module has gone into the Limited Driving Program due to a fault. What you should to is read the tiptronic history/faults with a durametric tool or tow it to the dealership or mechanic that has a pst2 or piwis tool. If you have access to a lift or 4 jackstands so you can lift the car up completely level, you can try and check the tranny fluid and/or change it. Remember that to properly check the fluid level the car must be running. Good Luck, Larez2
  2. larez2
    How long have you had the car? What you describe is how it's supposed to work. It starts in 1st when it's cold, then after it warms up it defaults to start in second. If it's in second and you are at a stop, you can just stab the gas pedal it will downshift into first. Same is true at 40mph in 5th gear; as long as "D"/ Drive is selected with the shift lever; simple stab the gas pedal and it will downshift into 4th or if you stab it hard and quick, 3rd. I've never heard of a economic vs sport mode for the Tiptronic Transmission.
  3. larez2
    Depending on the size (height/weight) of your child and state laws you may be able to use a booster. For an actual child seat you can use a Britax Marathon. It is a tight fit and removing the seat cushion bottom of your rear seat helps. The hardest part is finding a a car seat with a base that will fit in the bucket area of the back seat. The front seat has to be moved pretty far forward for it to work, but it does fit. I image some of Britax's smaller child seats would probably fit as well. There is actualy a latch point back there in the middle of the rear shelf which is nice. I recently switched to a booster seat, a Recaro Vivo. It is a better fit back there, but it's just a booster, so if you kid is not big enough or state laws, that may not safely work for you. Good Luck, larez2
  4. larez2
    :welcome: and congrats on your purchase. Be sure to use the search feature there are several other threads about this same exact thing. The price ultimately depends on your dealer - they key blank and remote should run about $160 +/- and maybe $100-$150 or so depending on the dealer to cut the key and program it. If you go with just a lighted key head (non-remote) and still programed to start your car it'll probably be about $100 cheaper. If you go to your dealer, you need to bring proof of ownership to copy a key. You can also ask them to remove any othe keys that are linked to your car that you don't have. I always thought only the dealership could program the keys - but i was chatting with my indpendent Porsche mechanic the other day and the topic came up, he said they could do it too for 996's. You could purchase the key blank and head from Sunset or Suncoast as an option as well. I actually purchased a $5 key blank from ebay which seems fine.
  5. larez2
    Did you mean "sticks" in park? Do you use your parking brake? If you don't you'll notice on a slight incline when you park your car rolls quite a bit before locking in park. Over time if you do this a lot I believe something like a cable or something gets stretched out which makes for some sloppy shifting. Something like this happened to my mom (different make and model car though) and the entire shift linkage had to be replaced to fix it. Just and idea... HTH. Be sure to post your fix if it turns out to be this or if you find it to be something else.
  6. larez2
    worst case drill it and tap it, best case it can be removed with some vice grips or a reverse out drill bit. two finger tight it next time or torque wrench it. How much for the Ims retrofit/upgrade?
  7. larez2
    Sounds like your floor mats might be defective; they shouldn't be moving around on you at all in normal driving. Anyways, a rubber "no slip rug pad" might do the trick. It's non-stick, non-permanent. It's bascially a thin peice of rubber-like matting that you can put underneath your floor mat. You can cut it to fit.
  8. larez2
    I had a 99' boxster a while back that exhibited the same behavior. Its not a crazy shimmy but yeah like a slight shake/vibration. Super annoying. I started with free regular 4 wheel balance from discount tire. It didn't help. I then got the car aligned. It was a bit out of alignment, but that didn't help. So then i paid something like 50 bucks per wheel to get some sort of special balancing where they match the low spot of the tire with the whatever spot of the rim or something like that; i think it was called balancing with road force variation. It didn't help either. Then i took it to the dealership and had the front end/suspension inspected and the car road tested by the tech. They tried to explain to me the vibration was normal road feed back. I could tell they knew something wasn't quite right but they didn't know/wouldn't admit it. The thing that finally fixed it was getting new tires. My old tires were worn a bit unevenly, and even though they was lots of tread left, like 4/32ths even in the most worn area. And they weren't cheap tires either they were the Pzero Rosso's or whatever the Porsche approved tire was at that time. So my point is it may be your tires, even if they are not worn to the wear bars. Good Luck, larez2
  9. larez2
    to check a wheel bearing jack up the corner that you think is bad and wiggled the tire/rim. There shouldn't be any play in the hub. I think you need your tires balanced. If they are older tires that are not worn evenly then you may need a new tires even if there is a lot of tread left.
  10. larez2
    He has a 99' so his hood and trunk release are manual cable operated levers, not electric like on 2000 and later cars. You're problem has to do with a little tab that I believe is in the middle of the 2 levers. I've seen a post about this before, but i can't find it now. i think you have to turn a little tab with a flathead screwdriver or something like that 90 degree. when you lift up on both levers (even though they won't go up very far) it might give you enough room to look in between the levers and see whats going on. Maybe unlocking and locking the car a few times in rapid succession might fix it too. Good Luck
  11. larez2
    You are correct about the tranmission manufacturer being ZF. My local Porsche dealer will not sell me that tranny fluid either. You've also come up with exactly what I found regarding the fluid types - that the VW one is supposedly the same as the Esso LT 71141, there is also a BMW one ,and Mercedes one that are supposedly the same thing. They may very well be. I ended up just paying a little more for the kind with the actual Esso LT 71141 label on it (as listed in the TSB) for peace of mind. And that is what I recommend you do - you can order it from Pelican - free shipping with enough quarts. If you are DIY check out the article in the DIY section. You really want a sprayer/pump to add the fluid. I did it using one of those cheap hand pumps that you just put directly in the bottle of fluid. It worked but was a MAJOR PITA! Good Luck
  12. larez2
    Do you use your parking brake? I used to not use mine and I noticed when parking on a incline/decline, when shifting out of park there was a slight tugging sensation before it would shift out of park, the tugging sensation was a lot harder the steeper the incline. Not the case when I use my parking brake, so now I always use it.
  13. larez2
    Loren is correct about the battery disconnect. When I replaced my battery it was out for about that much time and the Tiptronic went back to the default program and definitely shifted different. It re-learned my driving style pretty quickly though. Its kind of a cool feature. I think it contantly "learns" though because even now if i drive it hard for a while; it will shift at a higher RPM for a while until even if i chill out and then after a while of normal driving it will start shifting at a lower rpm, etc. Don't forget your radio code if you decide to try the battery disonnect method.
  14. larez2
    AFAIK, unless you have an optionless boxster the passenger door does not have a keyhole. You are going to need to get a slim jim or a tow company to open it with a slim jim. Properly used, a slim jim will not hurt your car.
  15. larez2
    Issues like this have come up; i've searched this forum, there is the same common answers but no real resolution that I've ever seen. Basically what everyone says is to read the Tiptronic history/fault codes using a durametric tool or PST2 or PWIS tool. You could also do a transmission oil and filter change which might help as well. There might be a switch or relay or solenoid of some sort that is sticking/not working properly. Please post your fix when/if you figure it out. I am experiencing an issue where downshifts from 3rd-2nd are occassionally harsh, and I will post my fix when i figure it out - maybe it will help you figure out yours. Good Luck!
  16. larez2
    The only brownish/yellowish fluid I can think of is dirty brake fluid or dirty transmission fluid (tiptronic). Like the others have said, start by checking all of your fluids - oil, coolant, brake - don't forget the brake fluid reservoir is under the front hood. Right side in the rear is where you fill up the power steering pump, but there isn't any way to check the level. The engine mount has more of a greenish black fluid in it. Since you drove it home okay, you're probably ok to drive it to the repair shop so long as it's not too far. Good Luck
  17. larez2
    The instructions look good.... I have something to add. I think the instructions above are for the 99-01' 996 911's because I just put my 2002 911 up on a lift and the Tiptronic S transmission/pan looks nothing like in the pictures. Also, the fill and drain hole bolts on mine were both just 6mm. Another thing to note; with the car off/not running, when you remove the FILL bolt, tranny fluid starts gushing out, yeah, it comes out the FILL hole!!! I did not expect this. So if you are thinking of "topping of your tranny" fluid like I was, make sure to have the car on/running to when you try to add the fluid. The ESSO ATF LT 71141 fluid is for 1999-2001 911 tiptronic trannies, ATF 3353 Plus fluid is for 2002-2005 trannies. -Larez2
  18. larez2
    I doubt injector cleaner will help unless you have been using dirty fuel or there are a lot of contaminents in your tank for some reason. It's worth a shot though. My favorite product is Sea Foam. I've used it on some really messed up cars and it helped noticable! Just cleaning the MAF isn't necessarily fix in itself - you could test the MAF with a voltmeter to ensure that is it working properly. You could also test running the car with the MAF unplugged. If it doesn't hesitate with the MAF unplugged, then the MAF is likely the culprit for your hesitation. FYI, if you run your car with the MAF unplugged, your CEL will come on, but should go off after plugging it back in and driving a while, or you can just reset the CEL after you plug MAF back in.
  19. larez2
    Sounds like your maf is fouled or has gone bad or maybe that tube that leads from the intake to the throttle body has come loose - that's happened to me before and the issues I experienced were similar to yours. Good Luck
  20. larez2
    I can't explain the technical reason behind it, but just run your tank down more before your next fill up and I bet the guage will show more full when you fill it up the same way. I used to fill up my tank regulary when it only needed 12 gallons. Gradually, the guage showed less "full" each time I filled it up, so I ran it more empty, like 15-16 gallons needed to fill it up few times in a row and each time I filled it up after running it down towards empty more, the guage registered more full after filling up. Of coarse you never want to run out of gas though!!!!
  21. larez2
    I think you've eliminated the fans being the problem since they come on. Are you sure the the squealling/whining is definitely coming from the front of the car? Maybe it is radiating from the back of the car. Did you check the coolant and oil levels? My guess is good as any but I am thinking maybe your water pump is toast and maybe not circulating the coolant well. When idling if you rev the engine a bit does that make the temp drop a bit is often a sign of a failing pump. Good luck and reply back with whatever the problem ends up being.
  22. larez2
    I used something similar to this before: http://www.drcolorchip.com/ And it worked great. I always see the dr colorship ads in Panamera. I believe the chemicals included with that kit could be purchased separately for cheaper though.
  23. larez2
    How long have you had them installed? I tried those same exact o2 sensors when I had a 99' Boxster - I had gotten a code for one of my o2 sensors and decided to replace all 4, after I installed them and reset the check engine light, the check engine light came back on about 20 miles later saying all o2 sensor were bad. I ended up purachasing Bosch OE ones for significantly more money which worked fine.
  24. larez2
    If you want to try and DIY, Gahh makes good stuff: http://www.gahh.com They have a seat cushion bottom kit available. The fit will be good but the color might not be the perfect match if your existing seats are faded. I've never worked on porsche seat leather but I have done some uphostery work on other cars - it is usually a pain in the A$$. not super complicated work but really time consuming and makes your fingers really tired. Otherwise I'd take your car to an upholstery shop to see what they can do - some upholstery shops can do amazing things - they may very well be able to soften up the leather and repair the tear. Good Luck
  25. larez2
    :welcome: I think you are referring to the map light. You sure the light isn't just turned off? Can you manually switch it on? My thinking is when they wiped down the inside they accidentally turned it off. Otherwise maybe it is the bulb then. Congrats on your purchase!
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