judgejon

headlight switch?

Sunset is easy to work with, although Jeff has switched over to the Audi side of the business. Carlsen Porsche in Redwood City is also a good place. It's also good to see the post from Duram. Best regards to you, Duram, if you see this reply. And, ... cheers.

lots of stuff on this issue. check it all out running some searches. Faulty seat belt connector is a big one. Mine's come on for mysterious, unknown reasons... playing the radio with the engine off? letting the car idle after starting on a very hot day with a/c on to cool down interior? But the seat belt connectors are a recognized issue. Good luck.

Just for info and to bring this thread current, having tried new fuse and taping the cellphone connector, has anyone found a fix for this yet? My car goes into the shop of my very good indy on 1/31, and I'll post up any progress or solution of the problem. Cheers to all....

I'm having this same problem with my 2003 C4S. The parade of all the horribles on other posts indicates a fix that involves changing out the evap canister could lead me to the land of the C-$-S once again. So I'll try anything, and although my E6 fuse was good I changed it, and although I've never experienced any short from the cellphone connector I pulled off the right side of the center console and taped it all up. Next stop was the gas station. I was really hoping for success, but still had to literally squeeze gas into the tank a tablespoon at a time. and, for the first time, when I was at just about 2 gallons pumped the gas pump timed me out. So, Mattaebersold, my friend, what was your result, if you don't mind my asking and sharing your experience. And next time I'm up visiting friends up on Queen Anne maybe we can have a nip at that very cool pub up there.

this is now happening to my 2003 C4S. Would you mind posting what happened? Thanks

I had not heard of this one until it started happening to me. My indy said he's only seen this happen once before with a Boxster. All posts on point will be appreciated. I won't be doing much driving in December, but will need to solve this problem right away in January. The fill up process is ....... grrrrrr.

you might have an intermittent unpredictable short in the alternator. Is it a rebuilt? OE? Seems like a dumb idea, but this falls into the topic area of "mysterious Porsche issues for which there is no known answer." Like a mysterious rattle or short that cannot be duplicated when you take the car into the shop to check it out. also, is your battery strong enough? A Dura? Get a strong Interstate from an indy garage and see what happens.

I'd say that those persons willing and able to do engine repairs and mods and maintenance service, pro mechanics or serious amateur, including those who race/track there cars, or just like to tinker with horsepower mods, or just plain like doing this kind of stuff and happen to have a Porsche, might want the pro kit. my inde mechanic has one, but I have the regular-folks version. But if a person wants to make friends with the cadre of compulsive Porsche people, and has money to burn, then go for the gold. there are many posts from members looking for others with a durametric to share. all imho.

connector is tricky. easier to just remove the 2 torx screws and leave connector attached. lots of stuff on this, run a few searches.

many have faced this same issue, including me. I've had some really good communication from the nice folks up at Durametric too. (ps: when I first installed my durametric software several years ago I was having a minor problem, called the company, and Duram actually walked me thought the install process. Most recently have communicated with William and Owen and they are really helpful.) So, you can do this two ways: 1) put emulation software that runs windows into your mac, put windows o/s into your mac, then you can download Durametric and way you go. Or, 2) you can get a windows notebook, not a tablet, download Durametric, and use the tablet as your "car computer." the good folks on this forum have been really helpful on this point as well. I've wrestled with the question and decided to just get a small windows notebook for using on road trips and just leaving my lovely macbookAir at home. But others have noted they have no problems using the emulation software approach.

that wire could actually be the parachute release cable used for releasing the factory optional parachute assembly thats used to slow the car after drag racing on a 1/4 mile strip.

bet there's a loose connection in there somewhere... good luck. Has this been resolved?

Well I guess its official Ill just stick with OEM or equivalent! Thanks for the feedback! :thumbup: yes. good decision. what's to gain with the K&N? Horsepower negligible, sound negligible, asking for trouble with MAF and fuel system electronics...priceless. (But....to be fair to K&N, a friend did put a K&N in his GMC pickup along with a monster exhaust that had twin pipes coming out from under the right side of the truck and it was actually pretty good. Idled like a gurgling speedboat engine, and fired up like a dragster. But.... this was a GMC, not a P-car with all the electronic bells and whistles.)

and you might check the side curtains of the sunroof. There is a plastic curtain that attaches, poorly, to each side of the sunroof, and in theory blocks sun from the side and provides a sound and draft barrier when the sunroof is tilted. These are very flimsy and poorly attached and in my car caused the sunroof to close unevenly. One is loose and I routinely just push the plastic end piece up and out of the way if my sunroof has been open awhile and especially if I've been on bumpy roads. The other fouled up the track and I ended up just pulling all the plastic sheeting right outta there. Now works fine. Might be worth a look. Good luck.

raise the car 1/2" all around and see what happens....

Thanks, Mike. I checked it out and turns out I like the position to the left of the mirror better than the V1 hanging under the mirror. I've thought about moving the remote to on the dash up by the windshield, but the position and fit isn't great. Actually, best set up was in my '79 SC. V1 was on the right side sun visor, and the remote up against the windshield directly in front of me. Sort of a "heads-up display". Had to use the mute on the main unit as I couldn't reach the remote button. The 996 set up potential on the dash for the remote doesnt look that great, but I'm thinking about it. the windshield position to the left of the mirror is actually ok, and in busy areas the mute button on the lower remote position is easy to find and use. Just takes plugging it in. I wish I could hang the receiver from the right side sun visor, but the angle of the visor prevents that. Good to connect with you...regards, j

great job. Burk, are you seeing this? Installation is similar to your twin turbo set up on the C4S.

did your mount just come out on the market? I have a Valentine to the left of the rear view mirror and considered a similar mounting for it. I looked a few years ago, but found nothing for the C4S. I don't think there was a change from 2002 to 2003. **how about posting up a pic or two of your installation?** I bet there are some folks, like me, that might consider using a similar set up. and there are some power options to consider: I think the post from Mike deals with direct wiring from the overhead cabin lights. I found a great post about direct wiring from the unused heated seat fuse. In Utah you probably have heated seats. But there is likely another open fuse that is hot only when the key is on that you might consider using. Per the post I found about direct wiring from the heating seat fuse, my power line goes up along the left side of the windshield and there's a short "pigtail" dangling out for connecting the Valentine. Very nice looking I think. I mounted a remote display on the "batwing" at the left bottom of the instrument panel. I don't have heated seats, California, you know, but I believe there would be plenty of room for the remote display between the heated seat switches in the middle of the batwing. the remote connector fits easily behind the fuse box. the connecting phone line fits easily along the underside of the dash and then threads in behind the lower, removable, part of the instrument panel. There's also a good post about mounting the remote display directly into the "batwing," but I elected not to do that because I wanted the option of not using the remote. The remote is handy at night so drivers, or other possible observers, behind you cant see your Valentine red arrows and follow along in your wake. Good luck. Pics, please. j

thank you, gentlemen. I think I have this figured out. Still need to decide between Bootcamp and Parallels emulators, but I'm now on the right track. appreciate the help. jl

I drove my 79 SC as a daily driver 365 days a year and loved every trip. Put in the Carrera chain tensioners for peace of mind. sold the car at 325k. I now drive my 996 C4S every day and love it. Great car, easier to drive and much more forgiving than the SC, with great a/c, and tons of torque on the low end. Yes, I put the LN Engineering IMS fix for piece of mind. The '84 Carrera is a great car, but for a daily the 996 is easier.

If I've got this right, you are using Bootcamp system emulator and have installed Windows in a flash drive. when you use the Durametric you plug in the flash drive, start windows and voila! Yes?

sent you a PM, but it didn't go through. sending it again.... thanks, jl

thanks for the timely reply. Assume your using Windows 7, any problems there? Our daughter and family are east of Memphis, and we get there and to Nashville on a regular basis. Hope to see you out on the road! Cheers,

greetings from a new MacBookAir user. I had to use my Durametric to clear an air bag code on last Sat. I had left the car running with a/c going to cool down the inside before taking off, and without the seat belt connected the air bag light came on. Yep, its happened before. I use my Durametric with a Sony PC. No problems. I now have a small MacBookAir and want to take it on road trips with Durametric software installed. I'm told I'll need emulation software and then I can download to my Mac, get the latest Durametric, and use a newer version interface. I think I downloaded an update a few years ago into my PC. the original interface works great with it. Question: Mac users, what did you have to do to get Durametric to run on your Mac? I always carry the Durametric stuff in the car, but not the PC as its really my wifes laptop. so now I have the Mac for myself and want to take it with me when I'm on a road trip. Any tips on getting it set up would be appreciated. jl