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Steve Tinker

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Everything posted by Steve Tinker

  1. Steve Tinker
    Sounds like your radiator cooling fan motor is faulty or the fan blades are blocked / siezed. There are two fans (one @ each corner) which both should come on when you select the A/C.
  2. Steve Tinker
    48 psi tyre pressure - I can't believe it.... They must be rattling your teeth out (and kidneys too) set at that pressure !!
  3. Steve Tinker
    Tim, looking at your picture, it appears that you have nearly 100,000miles on the car. Seeing that you only get the low pressure warning @ idle revs, why not try a slightly heavier oil - say 10W40 or 15W50 weight - instead of the 0W40 you are currently using. It maybe a combination of high mileage and hot low viscosity oil at low revs causing the problem.
  4. Steve Tinker
    Dan, I assume that when you are checking the voltage with the engine running, you are spinning the engine above 1500 rpm. The alternator will not give out a decent charge @ 800 rpm idle speed.... If the voltage is still low I would replace the alternator as your cars electonics rely heavily on a healthy charging system.. Regarding the clutch pulley. My 2001 Boxster S (74,000 km) had a rumbling noise at idle, this was about 2000 km after fitting the Raby underspeed pulley and new belt. I removed the belt and ran the engine quickly without it - the noise disapeared. I got out my trusty medical stethoscope and located the rumble coming from the upper belt pulley, so I removed all the pulleys and replaced the bearings, bolted everything back up - and the noise was still there !!!! ****...... So it could only be either the alternator or the power steering pump, and as the alternator was easier to remove, I took it out and checked the shaft bearings - all looked OK but I took it to my Bosch agent who diagnosed immediately a semi siezed clutch pulley. You need a special tool to remove the pulley from the alternator shaft, but it only takes a minute. Once a new pulley was installed the noise has completely gone, The Bosch agent says these clutch pulleys seem to always sieze rather than slip and cannot be repared.
  5. Steve Tinker
    According to my Bentley Boxster Service Manual, and assuming you pulled ALL the fuses out of their receptacles in the fusebox (located in the footwell), there are no other fuseboxes apart from the "current distributor" located high in the bulkhead above the right seat - though I would doubt any problem there, as it would show up in other ways. The only other fuses I could see is in the anti theft control module under the left seat and the secondary air pump fuse in the relay panel #2 in the rear boot (err, trunk in your language). You would think that these secondary fuses would still be protected from the main fusebox though. I'm just wondering if you have a problem with your ignition switch as the current draw from being OFF @ 2.8 amps to ON @ 2.91 amps is very little. These switches are known to be problematic after a few years. If you have access to the Bentley Service Manual it would be a great help to you locating the electrical componants....
  6. Steve Tinker
    +1 on the Durametric tool - the first time I plugged mine in it indicated that there was a MAF fault, even though my CEL was not lit. The car was still under warranty from my local OPC and they replaced the MAF without charge - performance and fuel consumption improved immediately. If I had not bought the Durametric I would have not found the problem, so the scan tool payed for itself first time out.....
  7. Steve Tinker
    Hi Lyn - good to know I'm not the only 60 something curled up under the dashboard or engine doing the maintenance & repairs...... And everybody I know thinks I'm "strange" too !!
  8. Steve Tinker
    And how does the car feel now after its recent surgery? New oil, coolant, cooler and T'stat - should be running a fair bit better now...... Six months ago I did everything you did except change out the water pump as I had only completed 40,000 miles. Plus a few weeks ago I added the Raby Flat6 under drive pulley which really added the cherry to the top.
  9. Steve Tinker
    As a practical side to this discussion, I fitted the low temp thermostat last year and it has now completed a sub tropical summer and winter in Australia. Our temps are similar to Florida. I replaced the coolant and thermostat together on my 2001 Boxster S which has the 3rd radiator & larger heat exchanger as standard. What I have found is that my front mounted cooling fans come on less and for shorter periods and I have only heard my engine compartment fan come on once since the thermostat changeout. So not only does the oil get an easier life, but the cooling fans have it better too. But note that in heavy traffic, the temperature gauge goes up and indicates the same as before the changeout (after all, a fully open themostat is a fully open thermostat), but on the open road the temp gauge now runs exactly at the 180 tick mark, where prevously it ran well above the tick.
  10. Steve Tinker
    Your battery is as flat as a pancake because your alternator is not charging. When you remove (or have someone remove) and repair the alternator, you will need to charge the battery for at least 12 hours - probably more - on a trickle charger. Don't think that you can start the car and drive round for half an hour and all will be charged up OK - because the battery is in a fully discharged state it will require some time to get fully operational again.
  11. Steve Tinker
    You guys just don't know how lucky you are - I couldn't buy a 996 ENGINE for those $$ here in Australia.... Porsche Centre Brisbane (www.porschecentrebrisbane.com.au) have a couple of 997's for sale. Check them out - the conversion rate is x 0.91 How would you like to pay $US139,000 for a 2004 997, or $US173,000 for a 2006 S model. And if you are feeling really flush this month, a 2008 997S model with 9000 miles is a snip for a ball breaking $US230,000. And the corresponding spares and servicing costs follows suit - that's why I service my Boxster S myself and get most of my spares from the US - about 60% cheaper and I get them in just over a week from order.
  12. Steve Tinker
    I had my LHS cambox leaking slightly and with the windage when driving the oil spread out something like yours. I removed the wheel and re-torqued the bolts (there's about 20 of them) and all is well again. To really identify your leak, you should really chemically clean the underside of the engine with de-greaser - otherwise you are guessing.....
  13. Steve Tinker
    I retired a day before my 61st birthday in 2007, so I celebrated big time. Bought my current 2001 Boxster S. My wife just shakes her head and smiles - I guess she knows me well after 42 years of marriage......
  14. Steve Tinker
    LVDell - I realise that this won't help you, but the Boxster S from 2000 on uses the 996 6 speed gearbox, which as you know, is a lot easier to service - except for an aluminium strengthening plate that has to be removed to access the drain bolt.....
  15. Steve Tinker
    A clutch issue can cause difficulty in being able to select 1st & reverse gears, as can air in the clutch hydraulic line. I bled the clutch fluid last year on my Boxster S when I flushed the brake fluid, and there was a distinct improvement in clutch feel. If you cannot select reverse, try 1) pumping the clutch pedal a few times before selecting reverse, or 2) stopping the engine and then try to select reverse. If it goes in OK, could be the clutch dragging causing gear selection difficult......
  16. Steve Tinker
    Was this fault ever identified ???
  17. Steve Tinker
    I would also be interested to hear what Durametric have to say.... I bought the Durametric last year only to find my 2001 S with 45,000 miles had 23,000 Range #1 ignition overrevs. I nearly dropped the scan tool !!!! There were NO Range #2 ignitions according to the Durametric. I had bought the Boxster in 2008 from an official OPC who gave it a clear bill of health, but that didn't prepare me from thinking I had inherited a car previously owned by a rev head moron. But the OPC guys say that if your car has been on a dyno for one reason or another, it only takes a few runs up to redline to get the Range #1 ignitions. Sounds feasable to me - and as the car did not come with the optional Porsche Crystal Ball, I'm hoping that is what happened... Keep us informed Steve......
  18. Steve Tinker
    Put the replacement engine in a crate and send it to Flat6 Innovations for a thorough inspection by a crew who know what to look for. Sure its going to cost, but in the end, you have a very fast, bullet proof engine that should be good for 200,000 miles. You can sleep easy and when it comes to resale, the rebuild quality by a pro has to be a plus ........
  19. Steve Tinker
    +1 on as per Blue2000s says. And also make sure your battery is in good shape - if its an original and with the cold weather you are having in the UK, it may also be time for a replacement or at least an overnight 12 hour charge.....
  20. Steve Tinker
    I personally wouldn't take a chance of mixing the two fluids - just in case. The Pentosin fluid is incompatable with standard power steering fluids.....
  21. Steve Tinker
    I concur with JFP - I had Jake Raby send over the low temp thermostat to Australia and installed it with new Porsche coolant. Car warms up quicker, runs cooler and stays cooler in traffic longer. If you are in heavy traffic of course, the temps on the gauge still go up when the thermostat is fully open, but for normal open road driving, the (mostly) vague guage reads a couple of notches lower than it used to with the standard thermostat. I'm assuming that if the coolant is cooler, so is the engine oil........
  22. Steve Tinker
    Lots of people in wetter climates have found that the accumulation of leaves and debris that gets lodged between the air con & coolant rads can cause the aluminium cores and jackets to corrode. If your car has a high mileage it would be a good idea to remove the bumper and clean the whole area - if one rad is bad you can be sure the opposite one will be similar. I couldn't believe the ammount of crud I removed from the rad areas - over a dustpan full of leaves, grass, cigarette buts, gravel etc - and @ only 60,000km. I had no corrosion, and after cleaning the car ran cooler too....
  23. Steve Tinker
    As well as per what Damage says, if its difficult to engage the gear (especially 1st or reverse) either there is air in the clutch hydraulics (master / slave cylinder) or the clutch plates are worn which requires a clutch replacement. Try pumping the clutch pedal a few times before engaging the gear - if it goes in easier, its air in the system. Bleeding the clutch is a pain as its in a difficult position, but a lot cheaper than a new clutch......
  24. Steve Tinker
    Jack - the Bentleys manual is the one most people use - not perfect but good, though no engine teardown is given in the text. Before you rupture yourself turning the engine under compression (assuming you - err - have compression), try removing the spark plugs. First it will be easier to turn over and second the plugs may give you an indication of which cylinder (if any) is giving you heartburn.
  25. Steve Tinker
    I agree with N41EF - why would you change from the Porsche coolant, every 5 years is not a big cost option and no strawberry milkshake... Also consider installing the Raby Flat6 low temp 160 deg thermostat - it works extremely well, especially in a warmer climate.
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