voodoocat

(disclaimer: not responsible if you damage your car) My 2004 CTT already had the aluminum cooling pipe, but recently it lost a lot of coolant as the T pipe broke. A steady stream of coolant flowed out. If your CTT is 50K+ miles, suggest to have them replaced. I think that part will eventually fail for everyone. Unlike breather / vacuum like breaking (that happens often too), the coolant T pipe will disable the car. Actually I was able to slowly drive it home after filling with distilled water, but fortunately the failure happened near home. If you are going to change the coolant pipes, take the extra afternoon and change t-pipes. Rennlist and 6speed have more information on the coolant t-pipe but I’d like to share my experience here. Refer to articles on rennlist/6speed also as I may have omitted some details. Note, if you are not confident of making your $90k new /twin turbocharged 450HP car completely disabled and put it back together, don’t do this job. If you make a mistake, you can cause serious damage beyond the ~$2k you are saving. I am not responsible for any damages you may cause. Remember this is a 4.5L V8 Porsche engine, not a small block chevy. Purchase the following. Sunset Imports has good pricing on Porsche parts: 1 or 2 Gal Porsche coolant, distilled water. I think I lost couple of gallons. There are enough articles to warn not to mix coolants. This (lifetime) coolant feels different, a little oily, and I’m not sure it is completely harmless to paint, etc. I thoroughly rinsed the area that was exposed to the flowing coolant. Cable actuated hose clamp device like http://www.sears.com....1&blockType=G1 this one does not work well out of box; because cable stretched and it didn’t expand the clamp completely. I needed 1mm more to fully open the clamp. Break off the cable end, and use the replacement cable stop for full opening (you’ll see what I mean). All 5 hose bands will require this tool. Another special tool is triple square bit for the engine mount screw. You can try your luck and use hex bits, but that bolt is aluminum, if you strip the socket you're screwed. :) Intake manifold gasket, 2 pcs. Don’t reuse just replace it for peace of mind. T piece hoses 955 106 323 50 and 948 106 035 51. Get both. They will both eventually fail. The coolant comes to the tee from the coolant pipe (under intake manifold, right one of the three), branches off to another tee, and then to two turbos. As mentioned in many other forums, it is located behind the engine on driver side, and you cannot see them from the top. You can partially see from bottom. One of the T’s have pre-installed metal band. The hose orientation are set for proper install, so don’t turn it. The 2 tees will fit to each other, along with 4 other connections. Do not throw away the larger hose clamps when hoses are removed. You’ll reuse them. Remember to pre-install the clamps before hose installation. (I hate it when that happens, and you know what I’m talking about) Remote access camera, harborfreight has it for less than $100. This comes in handy to see the Tee, you can verify if the clamps are properly fit. 3/8 barb-1/4MIP (3pcs) and 1/4FIP brass Tee for $16 at home depot to repair/cut/patch the breather pipe tee located directly behind intake manifold by the firewall that will deteriorate and eventually break. Under the “PORSCHE” plastic cover on pass side, along the fuel rail you will find two ~1/2” black rigid plastic breather pipes running to back. The top one leads to this Tee. Also get couple of feet of 5/16” fuel hose to bridge/patch the hard plastic hose. Take note of the hose routing and make proper patch with right length. Alternately you can replace the breather hose assembly with genuine replacement. http://www.renntech....-breather-pipe/ If you still have the plastic coolant pipe, order the parts and replace it. It will fail, so better take care of it. Refer to many articles written about it. Cover the entire front end including nose and fender with towel or something thick. You will be leaning into it all the time. A stool on both sides helps to reach in to the engine compartment, especially if the truck is on ramps. Remove all engine compartment cover, and the bottom sheilds. Keep track of screws. I found that the intake manifold removal was not much of a big deal. There’s a lot of screws and connections to remove, have to be very careful for sure, and the tricky ones were removing pass side engine block cover (that silver plastic with PORSCHE across the top, loosen the frame side engine mount for easier removal), and the rear pass side manifold torx screw (be careful not to damage the rigid plastic breather pipes that are in the way). Pull out 15A fuel pump fuse 13/14 at driver side firewall fusebox. Relieve fuel pressure at the end of (pass side) fuel rail; unscrew the black cap, push the valve’s center pin (like on a tire), only few tablespoons will squirt out. Remember you still have fuel in the rails, take care when you turn the manifold upside down. Remove fuel line at back of intake manifold. EGR and other breather pipe connectors are hard to remove, squeeze the ring firmly to release them. Also throttle body y pipe has a piece of pipe sticking out at bottom, connected to a hose, don’t break it. Remove the 2 plastic torx ‘rod’ that secures throttle body to intake manifold. Once necessary wire/hose/bolt are removed, very slowly wiggle out the intake manifold, remove 3 hoses in the back (+fuel line) when you gain access (don’t forget to re-connect them!), then eventually whole intake manifold slides out. Once the throttle body and manifold is out you can see/access all the intake valves (I suggest to simply tape the ports with masking tape but not stuff anything in the ports). You may be tempted to clean/scrape off the deposits on valves; unless you really know what you’re doing, don’t touch them. If you are thinking of cleaning the oily deposit inside manifold, remember that all loose particles will go into the combustion chamber. That was the easy part. Take note very carefully how the coolant T’s are connected. Of the 4 connections for both coolant tees (+ tees connecting to each other), 1 need to be removed from bottom, a 1/2”-ish metal pipe (so you need to remove all the bottom covers). Looking up from bottom, you will see metal heat shield covering transmission selector lever. If you remove the shield, don’t touch the lever; a slight push will disengage the gear (so work on level surface and put parking brake and chock the wheels). There is no need to remove exhaust components. It depends how big/long your arm and hands are, but other parts removal/install were all done from the top. Many of the hose clamps need to be removed by feel using the hose clamp tool, with one hand. It gets frustrating quick. Removing the hose from coolant pipe (under manifold, the right one of the three) was very difficult because of the access, reach and old hose being stubborn. Pry loose with flat screwdriver. I had to use small knives to cut through some hoses, prying with screwdriver for others. They are stuck on tightly and the hose lost elasticity, you can’t twist them off and no space for pliers. Install of the new hoses are much easier. Be sure to lubricate the hose ends so it slips in easily. When installing new tees, I installed one, then the second one (the banded one). I didn’t connect 2 tees together and install; no space. Be sure to reinstall all hose clamps correctly, and double check your work. You will not be seeing it for a long time, if done right. Before reinstall of intake manifold, I recommend to replace/repair the breather tee with the mentioned Home depot replacement. The tee is inserted 1” into the hose, I cut it and patched with the replacement. I didn’t clamp it, it doesn’t carry pressure (but it is exposed to heat/cool cycling). Now you are going to put them back together. Double/triple check when reinstalling intake manifold. Make sure nothing is covering/interfering the intake ports. That is the last critical step. Rest are comparatively easy. Say goodbye to the starter, located under the 3 coolant pipes (!). When starting the car, if idle is rough and hear terrible popping/firecracker sound, the manifold is leaking air. Something is between the gasket and intake port. Don’t gas it hoping it’ll go away; you’ll need to pull the manifold again. Put all pieces back together, refill coolant over several normal temp/cooldown cycle to purge air (I guess there are other techniques).